finally got my BP1 kit *pics*
#1
finally got my BP1 kit *pics*
I swear no one knows how to deliver **** to my condo, so after like 9 attempts I finally got all my parts
got great customer service from Sam, answered I think the two questions I had quickly and accurately, and I'm excited to get this **** on the car and see how much better it stops.
I'll either update this thread or start a new one later this week when I get it on the car and post the differences visually between these brakes and the OEM ones.
*excited*
Not a bad deal for a little over 500 bucks.
got great customer service from Sam, answered I think the two questions I had quickly and accurately, and I'm excited to get this **** on the car and see how much better it stops.
I'll either update this thread or start a new one later this week when I get it on the car and post the differences visually between these brakes and the OEM ones.
*excited*
Not a bad deal for a little over 500 bucks.
#4
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Way to stereotype them all.... I'm guessing you might have had/seen HP Plus compound Hawk pads? They are very dusty, HPS's aren't bad at all. They do dust, but not horribly.
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#7
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And all Camaro owners have beer bellies and mullets.
Dusting can come from improper bedding, glazed pads and rotors, a stuck caliper (which isn't uncommon on LS1's), etc. C
I don't think they dust badly, others clearly agree. And some think they are horrible, but if you are getting dust like a HP Plus, something is wrong. And race pads like Blues aren't even a fair comparison. How many race cars do you see with clean wheels? Ok, I concede that there are some really dirty Hawk pads (though I didn't say there weren't). And FWIW, Blues are old tech and need to be up to the correct temp and stay there (which is somewhere over 350 degrees or so), or they tear up stuff really badly, including griding down rotors in a hurry.
Dusting can come from improper bedding, glazed pads and rotors, a stuck caliper (which isn't uncommon on LS1's), etc. C
I don't think they dust badly, others clearly agree. And some think they are horrible, but if you are getting dust like a HP Plus, something is wrong. And race pads like Blues aren't even a fair comparison. How many race cars do you see with clean wheels? Ok, I concede that there are some really dirty Hawk pads (though I didn't say there weren't). And FWIW, Blues are old tech and need to be up to the correct temp and stay there (which is somewhere over 350 degrees or so), or they tear up stuff really badly, including griding down rotors in a hurry.
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#11
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they are ATE rotors
and you can find them on his site
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...ID=0&ModelID=8
he only sells these and brembos as far as rotors
and you can find them on his site
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...ID=0&ModelID=8
he only sells these and brembos as far as rotors
#12
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And all Camaro owners have beer bellies and mullets.
Dusting can come from improper bedding, glazed pads and rotors, a stuck caliper (which isn't uncommon on LS1's), etc. C
I don't think they dust badly, others clearly agree. And some think they are horrible, but if you are getting dust like a HP Plus, something is wrong. And race pads like Blues aren't even a fair comparison. How many race cars do you see with clean wheels? Ok, I concede that there are some really dirty Hawk pads (though I didn't say there weren't). And FWIW, Blues are old tech and need to be up to the correct temp and stay there (which is somewhere over 350 degrees or so), or they tear up stuff really badly, including griding down rotors in a hurry.
Dusting can come from improper bedding, glazed pads and rotors, a stuck caliper (which isn't uncommon on LS1's), etc. C
I don't think they dust badly, others clearly agree. And some think they are horrible, but if you are getting dust like a HP Plus, something is wrong. And race pads like Blues aren't even a fair comparison. How many race cars do you see with clean wheels? Ok, I concede that there are some really dirty Hawk pads (though I didn't say there weren't). And FWIW, Blues are old tech and need to be up to the correct temp and stay there (which is somewhere over 350 degrees or so), or they tear up stuff really badly, including griding down rotors in a hurry.
However everything in their lineup works really well from what I've experienced/seen. Except for one friend that had his HT10's crumble/disintegrate at the track which caused him to go off course at a high rate of speed. The reason it happened was most likely error on his part though.
#13
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Sorry guys, I had to leave work early yesterday but I'm back.
The rotors are indeed ATE PremiumOne units, I do also have Brembo (I also have others that I just don't have on the site ranging for good quality "cheap" ones, all the way the other way to DBA, PowerSlots, Baer, etc.
The ATE rotors are popular for a few reasons. First, they are coated with Metacote which keeps the rotor from rusting (except for where the pads run, that's obviously worn away by the pads). Some folks like that. The slots you see are not typical in that they are not as deep as other rotors, and are in actuality wear indicators. When the rotor reaches minimum thickness and needs replaced the lines disappear. And if you noticed the grooves do not run to the edge, or just stop abruptly this is to help eliminate stress risers and cracking.
The rotors are indeed ATE PremiumOne units, I do also have Brembo (I also have others that I just don't have on the site ranging for good quality "cheap" ones, all the way the other way to DBA, PowerSlots, Baer, etc.
The ATE rotors are popular for a few reasons. First, they are coated with Metacote which keeps the rotor from rusting (except for where the pads run, that's obviously worn away by the pads). Some folks like that. The slots you see are not typical in that they are not as deep as other rotors, and are in actuality wear indicators. When the rotor reaches minimum thickness and needs replaced the lines disappear. And if you noticed the grooves do not run to the edge, or just stop abruptly this is to help eliminate stress risers and cracking.
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www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
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Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!
#14
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The vast majority of club racers use Hawk pads, and I've used HT-10's for years and never had such an issue. Can it happen? Sure, you can get a lemon car too. But where brakes are involved common sense is often lacking. I know folks who have actually tried to street drive track pads. They stop, but they tear crap up and they those people have the ***** to blame the pads. The same is true the other way 'round. People try and track street pads and get pissed when they don't tolerate it. Maybe you friend had a bad set of pads, but it's a very, very rare happening and if pads are not run in a suitable heat range, bad things happen.
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www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
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Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!
#15
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The vast majority of club racers use Hawk pads, and I've used HT-10's for years and never had such an issue. Can it happen? Sure, you can get a lemon car too. But where brakes are involved common sense is often lacking. I know folks who have actually tried to street drive track pads. They stop, but they tear crap up and they those people have the ***** to blame the pads. The same is true the other way 'round. People try and track street pads and get pissed when they don't tolerate it. Maybe you friend had a bad set of pads, but it's a very, very rare happening and if pads are not run in a suitable heat range, bad things happen.
#17
and fwiw yes I am actually excited about the coating that prevents rust. Not that we have an issue with that here (AZ) but if it helps things look cleaner I'm all for it.
Also looking forward to seeing how these pads make a mess of my wheels lol. I'll post pics of how they look after install, and after a couple of intervals of miles so you guys can see. I'm really easy on my brakes 95% of the time.
Also looking forward to seeing how these pads make a mess of my wheels lol. I'll post pics of how they look after install, and after a couple of intervals of miles so you guys can see. I'm really easy on my brakes 95% of the time.
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The MetaCote protective coating formulation is cured at approximately 572�F. No grease or oil to remove, and helps protect against road salt, brake fluid and other corrosives � sheds water and dirt for clean appearance behind cast spoke wheels.
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Interesting..
Wonder if it actually works.
Edit: I'm not trying to be a dick either, but you just never know what salt will do to something, it's rediculous up here in NY.
Wonder if it actually works.
Edit: I'm not trying to be a dick either, but you just never know what salt will do to something, it's rediculous up here in NY.
Last edited by Shockwave179; 03-31-2008 at 07:58 AM.