Clutch Test: A must do!!
04-23-2008, 09:00 PM
#1
Clutch Test: A must do!! Intro:
Well, after countless researching and personal exp from either myself or my friends in regards to clutch life, I have decided to post about this. Hopefully this will save some people time, money, and possibly a transmission or two.
Some of my buds have learned this though either clutch manufactures and/or trans rebuild companies.
Regardless of the type of clutch/flywheel combo, be it even if the fly was from same company or one that was cut for resurfacing. It needs to be dialed in.
My Exp:
In my situation, I have a stock t-56, 40k on it. 30 of them driven by a girl and has been raced a few times at a track. I have personally grinded a gear twice in the 10k Ive had it.
Well around 38-39k I had clutch slippage issues. The slave was messed up and I couldnt bleed it. I would get dead pedal after a hard run. I wrapped the line and tried to suck from the top with no avail.
So I decided to do a new slave/clutch set up. I went with a GM slave, and leave the stock master and NO drill mod (yet). Also a textralia Oz700 z grip with their flywheel.
The stock LS6 flywheel was pretty beat up, def hot spots showing it not disengaging. The tex feels GREAT!! But I noticed in high RPM shift situations it would take longer to shift, def needed a second to get into ANY gear.
The clutch test:
My bud had a issue where a trans rebuild company recommended doing this when he pulled his trans, showing a solid hotspot in one Area. He also fragged his 2nd gear syncho.
He learned that he needed to do a clutch test.
1) Basically get a flat surface where you cannot roll forward nor backwards.
2) Put the car into 1st gear while the clutch pedal is pressed all the way to the floor.
3) With the pedal still down, apply the throttle slowly, as it nears 5k the car will either pull forward or do nothing.
4) If it does nothing, the clutch is fully disengaged. IF it pulls even at the SLIGHTEST. Then the clutch is still partially engaged.
Conclusion:
The basically means even if your driving normal every shift is like a mini powershift and its putting wear if not out right damage on internals. not to mention its burning up the clutch.
The solution is an Adjustible clutch master cylinder. Ram sells a stock style with a rod you can adjust.
The same bud when he changed a Spec clutch w/ hotspot to a tex oz700 z grip (like mine) said there was an improvement, but still would move forward and be a lil slow on the shift. He got the adjustible and it fixed everything. Now he can speed shift and doesnt get peddle fade after a 1/4 run.
I am doing the same since I found out mine pulls the car forward. Ordered one yesterday. It will be a while before I post results since I am having a peice of my lung taken out uggghh. 4-6 week recovery time
But I would like other people's input on this.
I think this in some form (maybe not exactly my post) but something in a sticky form to show that people with Aftermarket clutches do need to make adjustments and just because it feels fine doesnt mean it is.....
Well, after countless researching and personal exp from either myself or my friends in regards to clutch life, I have decided to post about this. Hopefully this will save some people time, money, and possibly a transmission or two.
Some of my buds have learned this though either clutch manufactures and/or trans rebuild companies.
Regardless of the type of clutch/flywheel combo, be it even if the fly was from same company or one that was cut for resurfacing. It needs to be dialed in.
My Exp:
In my situation, I have a stock t-56, 40k on it. 30 of them driven by a girl and has been raced a few times at a track. I have personally grinded a gear twice in the 10k Ive had it.
Well around 38-39k I had clutch slippage issues. The slave was messed up and I couldnt bleed it. I would get dead pedal after a hard run. I wrapped the line and tried to suck from the top with no avail.
So I decided to do a new slave/clutch set up. I went with a GM slave, and leave the stock master and NO drill mod (yet). Also a textralia Oz700 z grip with their flywheel.
The stock LS6 flywheel was pretty beat up, def hot spots showing it not disengaging. The tex feels GREAT!! But I noticed in high RPM shift situations it would take longer to shift, def needed a second to get into ANY gear.
The clutch test:
My bud had a issue where a trans rebuild company recommended doing this when he pulled his trans, showing a solid hotspot in one Area. He also fragged his 2nd gear syncho.
He learned that he needed to do a clutch test.
1) Basically get a flat surface where you cannot roll forward nor backwards.
2) Put the car into 1st gear while the clutch pedal is pressed all the way to the floor.
3) With the pedal still down, apply the throttle slowly, as it nears 5k the car will either pull forward or do nothing.
4) If it does nothing, the clutch is fully disengaged. IF it pulls even at the SLIGHTEST. Then the clutch is still partially engaged.
Conclusion:
The basically means even if your driving normal every shift is like a mini powershift and its putting wear if not out right damage on internals. not to mention its burning up the clutch.
The solution is an Adjustible clutch master cylinder. Ram sells a stock style with a rod you can adjust.
The same bud when he changed a Spec clutch w/ hotspot to a tex oz700 z grip (like mine) said there was an improvement, but still would move forward and be a lil slow on the shift. He got the adjustible and it fixed everything. Now he can speed shift and doesnt get peddle fade after a 1/4 run.
I am doing the same since I found out mine pulls the car forward. Ordered one yesterday. It will be a while before I post results since I am having a peice of my lung taken out uggghh. 4-6 week recovery time
But I would like other people's input on this.
I think this in some form (maybe not exactly my post) but something in a sticky form to show that people with Aftermarket clutches do need to make adjustments and just because it feels fine doesnt mean it is.....
04-23-2008, 10:32 PM
#4
Ive had clutch issues. I have a new clutch centerforce and there fw. I am finally gettin a ram adj master cylinder and should be installed next week. I will post results. I did the car tranny test and yes, with clutch engadged and rpms to 5000, my car creeps forward. Hopefully the adj master will fix my clutch problems.
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04-23-2008, 11:18 PM
#8
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Good post...
I have seen a lot of posts on here about dragging clutches. Only problem is, most people don't know it's dragging. If it's hard to get into first or reverse, or if it rolls like mentioned above, it's most likely dragging. It will damage the trans if it's driven like this.
I have seen a lot of posts on here about dragging clutches. Only problem is, most people don't know it's dragging. If it's hard to get into first or reverse, or if it rolls like mentioned above, it's most likely dragging. It will damage the trans if it's driven like this.
04-24-2008, 05:51 AM
#10
The last thing you want is to drive while it is dragging. Every gear should have some level of notchiness, but never have difficulty getting into.
Can just picture at the track if it was dragging. Line up the beams, rev to 5k and the car creeps forward for a red light... lol...
Can just picture at the track if it was dragging. Line up the beams, rev to 5k and the car creeps forward for a red light... lol...
04-24-2008, 01:50 PM
#12
I wonder who told you to do this test, Aaron....
But seriously, guys, I think a sticky needs to be made and put at the TOP OF THE LIST in this Manual section that explains the purpose and procedure of this test, because it is most likely the cause of 80% of the issues people post about in this section, be it hard to get into gear, slow/hard shifts at high RPM, damaged transmissions, etc.
It is free, simple to do (absolutely anyone who can drive a manual car can do it), and it takes all of thirty seconds. There's no reason anyone with an M6 car shouldn't have already done this test.
But seriously, guys, I think a sticky needs to be made and put at the TOP OF THE LIST in this Manual section that explains the purpose and procedure of this test, because it is most likely the cause of 80% of the issues people post about in this section, be it hard to get into gear, slow/hard shifts at high RPM, damaged transmissions, etc.
It is free, simple to do (absolutely anyone who can drive a manual car can do it), and it takes all of thirty seconds. There's no reason anyone with an M6 car shouldn't have already done this test.
04-24-2008, 04:00 PM
#14
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So since mine does this and I have yet to put in my new trans. It would be a good idea to get a new clutch setup. I already have the ram adjustable and it is maxed out on the adjustment.
04-24-2008, 07:47 PM
#15
My car didn't creep slowly applying the throttle to 5k, only when u revved it fast to high RPMs.....was enough to damage my transmission in under a few thousand miles and a few track passes. This was with a Textralia clutch as well. Apparently the Tex clutches drag alot, too bad when i installed it they told me NOT to use an adjustable master....and I didn't find out that the clutch was dragging until it was too late.
04-24-2008, 10:11 PM
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My car didn't creep slowly applying the throttle to 5k, only when u revved it fast to high RPMs.....was enough to damage my transmission in under a few thousand miles and a few track passes. This was with a Textralia clutch as well. Apparently the Tex clutches drag alot, too bad when i installed it they told me NOT to use an adjustable master....and I didn't find out that the clutch was dragging until it was too late.
04-24-2008, 10:57 PM
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So I decided to go out and put my clutch to the test since i just recently installed my new trans/clutch setup. Everything went well, the car didn't move at 5000 RPMs, but my ABS INOP and ASR OFF lights both came on and won't go off. I tried disconnecting the neg. battery cable and pulling the PCM fuses with no luck. Go figure, I know this is the wrong forum but does anyone have any ideas why this would happen?
04-25-2008, 08:56 AM
#19
So I decided to go out and put my clutch to the test since i just recently installed my new trans/clutch setup. Everything went well, the car didn't move at 5000 RPMs, but my ABS INOP and ASR OFF lights both came on and won't go off. I tried disconnecting the neg. battery cable and pulling the PCM fuses with no luck. Go figure, I know this is the wrong forum but does anyone have any ideas why this would happen?