superbee_68

iTrader: (3)

After reading on here that its a good ideat to change it, and mine was black, I decided to go ahead and change the clutch fluid. I have never had a problem with the clucth before, but the next time I went to the track, the pedal stuck to the floor after my first pass.

I am so freakin pissed. Now it does it all the time. I'm gona stick to the old sang, "if it aint broke, don't fix it," from now on.

What happened?

Pinky93

Maybe you just need to bleed the air out of the system?

PS - that is a BEAUTIFUL Super Bee!!!!!!!!

superbee_68

iTrader: (3)

Thanks.
Wow, I feel dumb, I never though of that. I thought I did a good job though.

ibanez7

iTrader: (7)

definitely bleed the system.

Also becarefull with what HYDRAULIC FLUID YOU USE, some fluid will eat the seals in the master!

superbee_68

iTrader: (3)

What about regular old dot 3 brake fluid from o'rielly auto parts?

DarkJuggalo

iTrader: (6)

i was told not to use less then dot4

camarossguy6

I just changed tranny, slave, clutch, and MC, Dot3 is fine... Im guessing you got air in your MC. If so, you need to bench bleed it (not fun)!!!!!!

NSSANE02

iTrader: (14)

The best, easiest way to bleed it is to use a minivac. Only took me a few minutes and you dont have to get under the car.

streetsurfinseth

if that does not fix the problem then it is going to be your clutch master cylinder. i had the same problem and bought a clutch and slave cylinder to find out that it was still doing the same thing. replaced the master and it worked fine.

superbee_68

iTrader: (3)

The pedal only sticks after a pass down the track, and then if I use my foot to pull it back up, it returns to normal until the next pass. Daily driving, nothing happens, its normal.

So do these symptoms fall in line with air in the system?

mrhzk35404

iTrader: (7)

Drill mod?

streetsurfinseth

thats the master cylinder bro. same exact thing that my car did before i changed my master.

do you have an after market master or is it stock.

either way the problem is one of the cylinders(master or slave). but i would do the master first because its not in the tranny. i thought that it could be pp or clutch but actually turned out to be the master cylinder on mine. the seal was shot in it.

streetsurfinseth

you can get an adjustable one on www.ws6store.com for like 155 bucks.

superbee_68

iTrader: (3)

Mine is the stocker with 120,00 miles, guess its time for a change.

chris2000ss

iTrader: (9)

sounds like the slave to me, I see you have a 98 they have the old style slave.

Mike44138

iTrader: (3)

There's an easy way to test the master. Disconnect the hydaulic line from the slave and try to push the pedal down with reasonable force. If it moves or you see fluid around the push rod on the master it's bad.

Your slave will leak out of the slit on the bottom of the trans if it's bad.

As for the fluid issues, DOT 3 and DOT 4 are essentially the same chemical make up fluid with higher boiling points on the DOT 4 fluid. Almost all brake fluid you buy today meets DOT 4 specifications. DO NOT use DOT 5 brake fluid. It is chemically incompatible with a system designed to use DOT 3/4. Despite it's higher boiling point, it's more compressible, holds air easier, and will cause brake systems to corrode more easily. A quick google search will fill in the details.

wrencher

iTrader: (2)

Stock style clutch in there still?
Have you been to the track b4 with this car I know, I have to ask?

superbee_68

iTrader: (3)

This car has seen many 5,000 rpm clutch dumps on 315's with fairly decet 60 foots for what it is, and the stocker still wont fail. Most of the time when I shift driving on the street, I chirp the tires through third.