4L80E tailshaft damage due to wrong cooler fitting!
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4L80E tailshaft damage due to wrong cooler fitting!
See attached photos. The first two are of the tailshaft damage after about 1500 street miles and 6 mid 13 second NA passes last season. The third pic is of the proper factory fitting and the one I ended up using. The damage occured due to the fact that I did not use the proper rear trans fitting that lubricates the rear carrier of the trans and the tail shaft bushing. Luckily I didn't damage anything other than the bushing! The fix, after FLT did the trans to handle my newfound TT power, was a 90 degree AN fitting with a tube pressed into it. I can't imagine what I might have done to the trans if I had the wrong fitting in now.
#3
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not 100% sure what you mean by wrong fitting, but a lot of people dont realize the cooler fittings are straight thread, not pipe, and damage the case by putting pipe fittings in-the newer 4l80e's have the cooler fittings further back, my guess is thats why you are using 90 deg fittings-one question, how did the 4l80e fit in your 72 body, i have a 69 and wanted to install one, had one mocked up, it was tight against the floor, felt it needed to come up a tiny bit more-thanks
ATI trans sells some AN fittings for the trans, not sure if a 90 deg hose end would clear the trans tunnel
ATI trans sells some AN fittings for the trans, not sure if a 90 deg hose end would clear the trans tunnel
#4
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I've also installed a 4l80e in my 67 chevelle ,it is tight and i think the angle will be ok with no mods ( yet ) . my biggest issue is the cooling lines hitting the body .anything ive tried still is leaving me too close to the body.I have those brass 90 degree fittings from a sonnax case fitting conversion kit I bought it to convert from push lock fittings to flare but a flare with a tight elbow ,still hits the body .It looks like you may have solved the problem ,i just need to find someone to press in a fitting for me . Im assuming you had the same problem if you were using these fittings ,and this would only apply for the rear fitting , the front is short with no tube on it . thanks JOHN
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Dont have the GM fitting part number but unless you are using factory lines the fitting wont do you much good. By wrong fitting I mean that the tube is missing off of the brass fitting in the picture. The tube goes into a seal that is pressed into an oil feed passage within the trans. Without the tube the fluid is not directed to the rear of the trans and damage will occure. I used the brass fitting last year not knowing this and now I am running the 90 AN fittings with a tube pressed into the rear fitting for proper lubrication. Sonax makes a kit for for early to late case conversion as John67 has listed below. I purchased the kit and it still would not work due to the trans tunnel being so close. When I had the trans out this past winter for the build we bfh'd the tunnel in a couple of spots and installed the trans lines prior to the trans going back in the car. I also installed the Biondo quick disconnect trans fittings to make removal easier down the road.
Forgot to mention this. I do think forcd ind is correct in that the fittings are straight thread and not an. I used 90 an and didnt get crazy screwing them in. I also made sure to used the teflon paste sealer on everything.
Forgot to mention this. I do think forcd ind is correct in that the fittings are straight thread and not an. I used 90 an and didnt get crazy screwing them in. I also made sure to used the teflon paste sealer on everything.
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In my car the factory dipstick worked.
The factory line are "similar" to a fuel line, quick disconnect.
To run braided line and an fittings you will need two 90 degree -6 fittings that are 3/8"? to -6 and the line itself. You will need to drill out the fitting used for the rear with a machinist bit and press in a tube of the proper length. I did this and measured off of the factory fitting.
The factory line are "similar" to a fuel line, quick disconnect.
To run braided line and an fittings you will need two 90 degree -6 fittings that are 3/8"? to -6 and the line itself. You will need to drill out the fitting used for the rear with a machinist bit and press in a tube of the proper length. I did this and measured off of the factory fitting.
#12
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I'm planning on using a lokak dipstick , the factory one will not work, my engine is too close to the firewall,there are two options with lokar,a firewall mount or an engine mount . both are flexable. JOHN
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I plan on using the ends off of factory lines and convert them to AN with a compresion fitting.
In case anyone is interested the part numbers are as follows.
15773661 cooler line approx $26
15809053 cooler line approx $31
24205103 retainer approx $3.25
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/100550/10002/-1
In case anyone is interested the part numbers are as follows.
15773661 cooler line approx $26
15809053 cooler line approx $31
24205103 retainer approx $3.25
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/100550/10002/-1
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http://www.turbols6.com/gallery/view...HOON-LSX-TURBO I have the # listed here.
thx
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http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/...asp?Check=True This is where I got it. I did a search of the site and came up with nothing??