critter

iTrader: (9)

I have it all installed now - Moser, LCAs, relocation brackets, adjustable PHB, and extreme TA. I have a 2000 Z28 and don't know what if any of the following details would differ on your car.
I got the extreme TA by accident, but the Trak Pak version looks like the rear mount bracket and crossmember are the same. I installed the rear bracket using the first set of holes because they fit. However, that puts the TA far enough to the left that it didn't really clear the driveshat tunnel properly. So, I had to fix it under the car. Would have been much easier off the car! I had to trim away a ridge on the lower side of the center section with a die grinder (other things would work, but that was handiest for me) but trimmed the bracket on the top. It looked like too much grinding on the center section. After considerable work with a body grinder, I finally broke out the cutting torch and took off about 3/4". The bracket fits fine now and the TA clears the drive shaft tunnel.
You have to mark and cut the crossmember to fit between your SFCs. (In this case, square SFCs works better than round. I doubt the TA would have fit with DD SFCs.) It is hard to hold and mark the crossmember by yourself, and there is not a lot of clearance between the drive shaft and the fuel lines, so you need to be careful with your marking. Also, half or more of the crossmember shows below the SFCs unless you do some trimming and BFH work. I trimmed off the right side bracket that mounts the cross piece behind the transmission. I also trimmed the rear 6" or so off the left mount point for that piece. Then I broke out the big hammer and bashed until the crossmember fit the SFCs well. It looks pretty nice welded in now.
The Moser is not exactly a bolt in. Perhaps the Strange is, and that is what you get for the extra bucks. Since you have to use your existing caliper carriers, the axle bearings have to be installed by you. I have no idea how one is expected to install the seals. I've always used a flat plate, but then the seals always went flush. I carved a chunk of 2x3 wood into a seal driver and promptly trashed both seals. Then I cut some 1/8" plate and tubing and made a driver. This one didn't do as much damage, but the seals don't look too good. I may end up doing it again I got the 3" muffler clamps, but of course the holes don't line up with the roll bar brackets. It took some die grinder work, moving the exhaust clamp holes inward and the sway bar bracket outwards, along with bending the ubolt ends together a bit. I was only able to get one of the emergency cable supports back on because of the lip on the rear cover and I didn't feel like bending the nice chrome cover. The emergency cable brackets need to be split as they are too narrow to fit over the relocation brackets. I torched the welds off, intending to weld them back together on the car, but only the right side was long enough, so I didn't bother.
The BMR weld on relocation brackets took a bit of grinding to make fit. I turned the 12 bolt upside down and leveled the pinion with a level. This made it easier to work on the reloc brackets. Using the length of the LCAs and a little trig, I determined what the hole locations should be ahead of vertical and marked the brackets. Then I ground until the level (held vertical now) lined up with the first hole and the marks. (I don't remember the measurements, but posted them earlier if you need them). Then, I welded them down.
The drive shaft was a new experience for me. I'd picked up the recommended NAPA ujoint, but couldn't find any clips to remove to get the old one out! The manual mumbled something about plastic and said to use a press to remove the ujoint. I don't have a press and never have used one. I tried the two socket method that I've always used before. It didn't work. You all may already know this, but there is a groove in the drive shaft yoke and a matching one in the ujoint cap. This groove is filled with nylon or some such through a hole in the side of the yoke. What I did was I set the free arms of the ujoint in the vise and heated the yoke with my torch. White stuff started spewing out the holes in the yoke and I started tapping on the yoke. Soon the cap popped out and I turned the shaft and repeated. The new joint went in with no problems after I let the yoke cool.
The LCAs were the easiest to install. I massaged the front of the left one a bit for less gap to fill, but other than that it was easy.

trackbird

iTrader: (4)

I actually own a balljoint/u-joint press (giant "C" clamp on steroids) and have pressed those nylon locks out with it....once. After one time of doing it that way, I went back to the old "propane torch" method and they "fall right out" (when using a press). GM knew how to make them stay in there, cheap and easy....getting them out is another story sometimes.

I once broke a bench vise with the 2 socket method and a hammer....the vice snapped before the nylon broke....go figure...

Magic Man

I have Moser.BMR and Spohn and had no problems with fit or install.Seals went in with made up tool and no damage.U-joint takes heat and some push but came apart.Ha1 shocks fit using long bolt and a few washers.When I get around to it I amd going to make a block to take the place of the washers just to look a little cleaner.

critter

iTrader: (9)

I heard that older BMR reloc brackets fit on older Mosers. It wasn't too bad. They would have "fit" if I hadn't cared about axle placement. I wouldn't have ground them if I had adjustable LCAs.
How did you make the tool & what materials?
That was my thought too.

SmokinZed

Did your stock length driveshaft work with the moser?

critter

iTrader: (9)

No problem. I was very careful to get the relocation brackets on right. The wheels sit in the same spot in the wheel well as before.

critter

iTrader: (9)

I've got some miles on it now and everything seems cool. No clunks from the BMR stuff. The Moser makes more noise than the 10 bolt, but the tires drown it out at 55 on the freeway. I love the 4.11 gears! Now for some baseline runs and then the usual boltons! (or do the suspension pieces count as "usual boltons"?)

trackbird

iTrader: (4)

If it involves a torch....we begin to question "bolt-on" status....but I think we'll let them slide in this case....

critter

iTrader: (9)

Great answer I was thinking for of LCAs I guess. I haven't figured out what "normal bolt-ons" means yet. Just trying to understand the ground rules for bragging. It seems like a catback is a bolt on, but headers aren't? Not really a big deal, but inquiring minds want to know. Drives my wife nuts ...

trackbird

iTrader: (4)

I'm not sure some days myself....many folks consider a cam a bolt on, same for heads. I can sorta see the heads part, but a cam is a "bolt-in" (to me anyway). So, if heads are bolt on's, then all cars are bolt on cars unless they change pistons? It is hard to say exactly. I think headers are a bolt on, maybe a difficult one, but a bolt on. Heck, if I replace the whole motor...I simply bolted a new one onto the transmission (A bolt on LS6 swap????). It seems to be a grey area for sure....


Glad to hear you got it working, it sounds like it was much worse than expected (isn't it always that way with cars and computers....).

trackbird

iTrader: (4)

I think I figured it out.

If it requires more than a 6 pack for you and a friend to complete the job, it is not a "bolt on". If you can finish it in "under 3 beers", it has got to qualify for bolt on status....

This may be a historic moment....we have found a way to qualify (and quantify) bolt on parts.

critter

iTrader: (9)

Ah, I didn't know that heads & cam were "bolt-on". I'd agree with you - a cam is definaely a "bolt-in"! But, yeah a motor is a "bolt-on" - you bolt it onto the transmission and subframe Maybe the smart thing to do is not brag about times and thus avoid the argument about the definition of "bolt-on".
Thanks! Yeah, that has pretty much been my experience. It is one reason I gave up the shop after a few years - too hard for me to make money at it.
Next, I'm taking this puppy to the strip to see how it runs "stock" before the "bolt-ons"

critter

iTrader: (9)

ROTFLOL I vote for that as the official ls1tech.com "bolt-on" definition!