Need a New Clutch - Spec 2 Short Life?
05-17-2008, 03:17 AM
#1
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Need a New Clutch - Spec 2 Short Life? - New Question So the clutch I had on my car (Spec 2) was supposed to only have a few thousand miles on it; this was "confirmed" by the person who sold me the car, and even the owner who had the vehicle before him (found him on LS1Tech) but tonight I finished it off. It was right after my first burn out - I had to be pushed out of the pre-staging lanes. So either I really messed up this clutch somehow, or the guy before me was just EXTREMELY rough on it.
So I read the sticky on CZ28 on clutches, and it seems to be a good idea to buy the clutch kit from AutoZone and switch the disk. But I have a few questions.
Thanks for the help guys.
P.S. - Picture for enjoyment.
So I read the sticky on CZ28 on clutches, and it seems to be a good idea to buy the clutch kit from AutoZone and switch the disk. But I have a few questions.
- Is #NU31265 the correct part number for the clutch kit?
- Does it still have the lifetime warranty?
- I will soon be adding a CC503 to my car and I should be putting down about 350RWHP but I'm not sure where my shift point will be. What is a good clutch disk for that situation?
Thanks for the help guys.
P.S. - Picture for enjoyment.
Last edited by Counted Out; 05-17-2008 at 07:21 PM.
05-17-2008, 12:05 PM
#4
that's the right part #
The Mcleod DF disc is $175 so you will have a decent clutch for $375.
For warrenty....might be tough to return a used PP and new disc down the road since you would not be using the stock disc.
After being through what you went through....I went with the ZOOM HP but it is $550
The SPEC rep may reply but he told me the SPEC PP "they" provide has a greater clamp force than a "stock" PP. Could not go into detail but that is what they claim.
If you get the Autozone look on the PP hat and fingers, it should say "Valeo". I have seen Autozone clutches that are clearly "clones" made in China and have 'raybestos" disc.
The Mcleod DF disc is $175 so you will have a decent clutch for $375.
For warrenty....might be tough to return a used PP and new disc down the road since you would not be using the stock disc.
After being through what you went through....I went with the ZOOM HP but it is $550
The SPEC rep may reply but he told me the SPEC PP "they" provide has a greater clamp force than a "stock" PP. Could not go into detail but that is what they claim.
If you get the Autozone look on the PP hat and fingers, it should say "Valeo". I have seen Autozone clutches that are clearly "clones" made in China and have 'raybestos" disc.
05-17-2008, 05:55 PM
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Isn't that disc only good to 5700RPM? That may be a little low with the new cam.
Hows that clutch working out for you? Have a link?
I'll check that. Thank you.
I'll check that. Thank you.
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05-17-2008, 08:48 PM
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FWIW I had a Spec 2 for over 40,000 miles. I took it out to replace it with a SPEC 5 when I went to a 408. The Spec 5 only lasted about 6,000 miles. Got a Spec 4 going in tomorrow. I've had good results with Specs, however I always get them balanced at a local machine shop.
05-18-2008, 12:29 AM
#11
Isn't that disc only good to 5700RPM? That may be a little low with the new cam.
,,clutch discs don't have a RPM rating
Hows that clutch working out for you? Have a link?
great, better street maners than the SPEC and holds at the track.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
I'll check that. Thank you.
,,clutch discs don't have a RPM rating
Hows that clutch working out for you? Have a link?
great, better street maners than the SPEC and holds at the track.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
I'll check that. Thank you.
ZOOM then RAM....then my SPEC 2+
my nood went to the ZOOM..has a better disc construction, IMHO
05-23-2008, 04:24 PM
#13
I want to make sure I understand this...the clutch went through two other owners and it went out after you owned the car for a few thousand miles...but there is no info on the amount of mileage before that...yet some of you immediately say "**** that clutch." Come on guys. Think about it...there is no way of knowing how it was driven by the previous owners and no real way to know what kind of mileage is on it.
Counted...you say yourself that it happened after a burnout..."It was right after my first burn out"...does the car have line-lock? If not then you may very well have found the cause of the "failure." Doing burnout in RWD a car without line-lock is asking for trouble. You are essentially asking the clutch to battle the brakes in a game of "tug-o-war" and as been proven time and time again...eventually the clutch it going to lose.
I have no issue at all in taking a look at the parts when they come out of the car if you like. I will even offer you a break on new parts to help you out as there is nothing worse than buying a car and immediately having an issue. All I ask is that we put things into context before jumping to unjustified conclusions. Let me know if you all have any further questions. Thanks!
Counted...you say yourself that it happened after a burnout..."It was right after my first burn out"...does the car have line-lock? If not then you may very well have found the cause of the "failure." Doing burnout in RWD a car without line-lock is asking for trouble. You are essentially asking the clutch to battle the brakes in a game of "tug-o-war" and as been proven time and time again...eventually the clutch it going to lose.
I have no issue at all in taking a look at the parts when they come out of the car if you like. I will even offer you a break on new parts to help you out as there is nothing worse than buying a car and immediately having an issue. All I ask is that we put things into context before jumping to unjustified conclusions. Let me know if you all have any further questions. Thanks!
05-23-2008, 09:29 PM
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I want to make sure I understand this...the clutch went through two other owners and it went out after you owned the car for a few thousand miles...but there is no info on the amount of mileage before that...yet some of you immediately say "**** that clutch." Come on guys. Think about it...there is no way of knowing how it was driven by the previous owners and no real way to know what kind of mileage is on it.
Counted...you say yourself that it happened after a burnout..."It was right after my first burn out"...does the car have line-lock? If not then you may very well have found the cause of the "failure." Doing burnout in RWD a car without line-lock is asking for trouble. You are essentially asking the clutch to battle the brakes in a game of "tug-o-war" and as been proven time and time again...eventually the clutch it going to lose.
I have no issue at all in taking a look at the parts when they come out of the car if you like. I will even offer you a break on new parts to help you out as there is nothing worse than buying a car and immediately having an issue. All I ask is that we put things into context before jumping to unjustified conclusions. Let me know if you all have any further questions. Thanks!
05-24-2008, 02:28 AM
#15
I have had a couple of Spec clutches and I will not use them again. I have an LS7 now and my next one will be a twin disk. I know a few people that have had nothing good to say about Spec and I know a few that swear they are the best clutch in the world. I won't speak for either party but my experience wasn't a good one, well more than one.
05-24-2008, 04:06 PM
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FWIW I had a Spec 2 for over 40,000 miles. I took it out to replace it with a SPEC 5 when I went to a 408. The Spec 5 only lasted about 6,000 miles. Got a Spec 4 going in tomorrow. I've had good results with Specs, however I always get them balanced at a local machine shop.
05-28-2008, 11:20 AM
#18
Counted, I responded to your IM but I wanted to make sure that everyone else was up to date too. There are a few things that can lead to slippage. These include wear (meaning that the disc could be too thin), contamination may be a factor as well (any foreign liquid on the disc surface would lead to slippage. As for your question about what part may be to blame...if the plate were broken it would lead to an inability to shift gear because the unit wouldm not release. Because you can shift gears the plate is ruled out as a potential problem. Let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks!
