derekderek

iTrader: (21)

Well I am getting ready to shot a 200 shot at a stock bottom end LT1. I am wondering the best way to accomplish this. Right now I have it set up to do 2 stages one wet and one dry the dry stage will be ether 50-75 shot and the wet 125-150 shot . I want to do 2 stages so I will have traction off the line then activate the second once in second gear. I will be running E-85 so I hope thats enough octane for it.

It will be dyno tuned and I have a wideband to monitor it. How much timing should I pull at first to start tuning it? And is there a better way to set a 200shot up. I have been spraying 100 shot for awhile with no issues. All my mods are in my Sig I might throw some 42lbs injectors in before I do this I can get them pretty cheap. Well any suggestions would help thank you

daniel6718

iTrader: (36)

200 on stock lt1 is pushing it...if you do do a direct port...pull 10 to start at least go from there...also run it a little richer than normal

TARZAN

iTrader: (12)

Theoretically speaking, direct port injection is the *best* way to do it....

Spraying 200 on a stock bottom end LT1? I know its been done before.....but just because that other guy didn''t get snake bit doesn't mean I wanna stick my hand in the snake pit.

Either way...

Its gonna be hard to stick a 200 on the line, and from what I'm gathering you have a stock 10-bolt....so you're gonna spin or break.....

I'd advise trying a 150 first and seeing how that treats you...

But if you just really wanna do it, I'd do so either with a progresive controller or in stages.

If you get those 42's, you're gonna need a tune.

Have you thought about running a TB plate and running NO2 on both sides? (since you don't need to add fuel, due to the dry kit).....not even sure if its possible, just seemed like an interesting thought, and it could work out well for an evenly distributed 2 stage

-Will

1_bad_TA

iTrader: (6)

200 is doable, as long as you have a progressive controler. It will help keep that 10 bolt alive and it won't be an instant shock on the bottom end.

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

Just introduce about half or the hit in the 2nd stage at a higher rpm. the higher the better, or rather the better chance of living a long happy life. Also, doing a first gear lock out on stage 2 is a good idea for traction. Prove the nay sayers wrong on doing a 200 hit. 100 off the line, then in 2nd gear the second stage comes on at say, 5200rpm, and bingo, we are running a 200hit on a stock bottom LT1. It can be done, just take it in steps and check all parameters as you go up in size and lean towards the safe side of things for a little safety cushion. make sure your fuel pump is in good working order. My vote would be for stages rather than progressive. You know about the cheap way to do the gear lock out, with stages?
Robert

derekderek

iTrader: (21)

Well I figured two stages would be better and what I was planning on doing. I know I will need a tune for the injectors I was wondering if it would be better to do two stages dry would the 42lbs injectors be enough. I was also thinking of running dual pump set up for nitrous. I wont just jump straight to the 200 I will do a 150 175 then 200 on the dyno to make sure its set up proper I in no way want to just jump into it with out taking some precautions. What do ya ll think about the E-85 will it be enough or run some leaded?

So you think 5200 for the second hit I know this may sound stupid. Why is higher better just because it will be ran for a shorter time or just the higher rpms help it out? I dont know about the cheap 1st gear lock out what is it? So I will get a window switch another pump just to be safe and if the 42lbs injectors will be enough i will get thoughs. Let me know what else I might need thanks for all the help keep the ideas coming!!!

NXZ28

iTrader: (45)

I think the reason you would spray it at a higher rpm on the second stage is because it doesn't spike the cylinder pressure as hard and puts less strain on the stock pistons and rings.

SY732

If you are going to lock out 1st gear for the 2nd stage I would put as much as you can in the 1st stage IE 100 125 or more.

If you are doing E85 it would be sweet to do a stand alone with E98 in it then you would never run out of octane E98 makes C16 look like pump gas.

t6378tp

you want to spray the 2nd stage at a higher rpm cause it's safer for the motor. what you are trying to do is stay within the tq limits of your rods and bolts. For example a 200shot at 5200rpms will make about the same amount of tq as a 100shot at 3000rpms. and if your rods and can take around 500-600ft lb of tq and if between the motor and nitrous you start to exceed that at any given rpm your running a chance of breaking

chevyguy7802

iTrader: (3)

I would def do the 2 stage!

derekderek

iTrader: (21)

Well I dont know about the stand alone kit. But where I work we have alot of 5 gallon jugs of E98 so I could mix some into the E-85 and we have Methanol to I know it takes alot more Methanol to do the same thing though like 45% more I think I was told. Well I did the math and found the 42lbs injectors would not be enough for a complete dry shot so I am sticking to my first plan. Thanks for all the info still waiting on stuff to come in. Thinking of swapping out my rearend before I do this to.

Sunset'01Z

iTrader: (10)

Do It!!!!

Nitro Dave's Nitrous Outlet

iTrader: (25)

Keep in mind running the E85 is going to alter the tune up people are use to suggesting. From what I understand you have to be more aggressive on timming and fueling with E85. I do not have alot of experience with E85 YET...

If you are searching for HP numbers thats great.. add as many stages as you want and bring it in spread out in the RPM range through out the gears so the motor lives. If you are looking to go fast down the track you need to be able to plant as much of that HP earlier in the RPM band and pass as possible.

First concider what RPM range you are turning that motor. If its a typical LT1 about 6200 to 6500 is the max RPM you are going to be twisting it before the power starts to fall off. The LT1 is a low end torque monster and not so much on the higher RPM.

3/4 of the race is with in the first 60ft. I can make a car run on stages or progressive so it does not matter to me. If you are going with stages. I suggest hitting atleast 150 out of the hole. (If you can not make it bite spend some money on tires and suspension rather than the second stage.) Then add the extra bump after you roll out and get up on the tire. In your case you can add the extra bump on the top end once you are up in your RPM band to keep the extra stress of the engine if you would like.


If you ware running a stock LT1 intake watch number 6 and 8 cylinder as they tend to be the ones to run lean. If you need help understanding what to look for on the spark plug let me know...

Just my 2 cents

Dave

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

What Dave said is good input and I agree, (yes, Dave is off ignore status, lol). I like the 5200rpm range as this is where HP takes over the torque. The torque gets you moving and the HP keeps you moving. So, yes, what ever your motor cam handle down low, and still hook, and the rest of the hit with the second stage, you will be quicker. With less out of the hole and more on top, you'll be faster for any given ET. Meaning, once you get a launch figured out and an amount of spray that works, adding more into the higher RPMs, after the hp takes over, will make you trap higher speeds with less increase in ET compared to getting a lower 60'er. So, what I am saying, and use this method myself, is to put the non hooking amount of spray in the upper reaches and you can run one hella size shot on stock motors. that's how I obtained the stock block ls6 record a couple years ago. Every little bit you can add, anywhere in the rpm band will increase your fast times. I went all the way to 285rwhp shot on bone stock long block in stages. The question was answered on why in the uppers reaches of the rpm band, yes, it stays (higher cylinder pressures) in the combustion chamber for a shorter period of time and thus a less chance of doing damage. One other thing to hit upon, get that timing pulled, that'll be one of the biggest safety tuning items to do. In my web on timing is an intro paragraph that explains (in words us dummies can understand) why less timing is the optimal way to go. make sure you keep us updated on your system and the results, we really are interested. Many think the LT1 is history, well one of the local guys (Ellis) runs a LT1 on spray around here and took the dyno day shoot out sprayed trophy this year (My car wasn't ready, and maybe things would have been different, lol...). So, the LT1 is still a power house motor, if done correctly, no doubt.
Robert

derekderek

iTrader: (21)

Well in the next coming week or so I will be ordering a Moser 9" with 4.30gears PST 3.5" drive shaft. With all the suspension parts for it IE panhard bar,lower control arms, trq arm,sub frame connectors thinking of going all BMR products anyone know if they offer a discount for ls1tech members? Also looking for some good springs the drop springs I have right now suck for racing. Also installing tubular K-member.

Still undecided on the rims and tire combo I want to launch pretty hard going to be running slicks and skinny's. Is there anything I might be missing that might help me out? Thanks for all the great info I will definitely be giving it all it's got when I am finished with all of this. As soon as everything is installed and i start to dyno I will definitely have a ton more questions. I am currently in Iraq but will be returning not to far from now plan on ordering all the stuff I need now so it is ready when get there. Sure am glad I have people to help me out with this most people would say I'm crazy never will work but with enough octane and timing pulled who know what will happen