9'' rearend. Anything extra?
#4
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All you need is an Adjustable Torque Arm, The factory will be turned into swiss cheese.
As far as the rest of the suspension, should bolt right up no problem, but it is a good excuss to just buy more stuff
As far as the rest of the suspension, should bolt right up no problem, but it is a good excuss to just buy more stuff
#7
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I'm running a Moser 9"! My car is not lowered, so use of an adjustable PH bar was not necessary, nor is adjustable LCA's. You will have to run a stock, BMR, or SPOHN adjustable torque arm assembly (Moser will not tell you this). While you're there decide if you're running a safety loop or not. I ran one, and the SPOHN set up will not clear true duals. Once in, you will need to drill out the LCA relocation brackets to run thicker mounting hardware, and may have to grind the inside of the PH bar mount on the rear. Moser states they use 1/4" thicker metal than factory, but don't engineer they're jig to accomodate factory parts. It was a pain the first time around, but I would do it again. You will need to make plans to remove your factory backing plates and have them and the bearings pressed on.
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#8
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OK. But we're not dealing in absolutes here.
My car works just fine with stock LCA, stock torque arm (It hasn't turned to Swiss cheese and I actually know another guy with a 800 hp turbo fbody who runs a stock torque arm. Crazy!)
My car is not lowered, yet the Moser 9" needed to be recentered using the adj PHB.
...The drain plug and LCA reloc brkts are a good idea.
Just sayin.
My car works just fine with stock LCA, stock torque arm (It hasn't turned to Swiss cheese and I actually know another guy with a 800 hp turbo fbody who runs a stock torque arm. Crazy!)
My car is not lowered, yet the Moser 9" needed to be recentered using the adj PHB.
...The drain plug and LCA reloc brkts are a good idea.
Just sayin.