sloganish

iTrader: (1)

hey everyone!

i have searched, but i need additional help.

My car is a stock 01 A4, stock convertor etc etc.

I have heard that a stock ls1 tune is almost perfect for a 100shot dry, any comments/suggestions towards this? i know every car with a power adder needs a full dyno tune, im not ignorant, but who out there just runs it on the stock tune?

HOw do stock converters hold up under spray?

how many passes per 10lb bottle on a 100 shot?

What plugs SHOULD i use and at what gap?

Im not using a window switch, only a button switch, at what point should i engage the switch, what is best for the motor, ET etc?

i have a few bottles of this



should i use this at the track to be safe?

dnkynrbk

iTrader: (34)

For one with a stock tranny if you spray it. It is probally going to go boom fast. The next think if you run the race fuel in your tank with out a proper tune you can fry your o2 sensors. You need to go with a colder plug with a 100 shot. Like NGKtr6 or a TR7 plug. You need to not use the button with spraying. Purchase a window switch. talk to one of the sponsers on here about which window switch. The window switch will shut off your spray between shifts which saves the tranny. GAP plugs at .35 You need to have someone retard your timming to be safe. Here is a block with not the right plugs or the timming not retarded.

ICRAZY6

iTrader: (68)

Colder plugs, window switch, and WOT swith a must. I'm thinking you would be fine without a tune because you'll likely be spraying before the maf and that should adjust for fuel. Like said before talk to a sponser. Like Nitrous Dave, he knows his stuff.

crewchef

iTrader: (6)

Just like one of those NASCAR cut away engines

If you go w/ dry the nozzle placement is the big key. The computer will compensate for the nitrous but only if it's hitting the MAF correctly. Agree w/ everything else posted about window switch, plugs, etc.

1969mach1

I have a 2001 z28 a4. stock motor, stock trans and conv., and stock rear end. the car dose have a SLP lid, Flowmaster cat-back and a Hypertech tunner.

I'm running a 125 Cold Fusion wet system. Not custom tune and stock AC Delco plugs on 93 pump gas. I have had the nirous system on the car for a few months now and i'm on the 2nd bottle.

ohyeah, no window switch, just a WOT switch. Its working good for me.

jetlag

iTrader: (32)

A window switch is only $110 from Dynotune or Nitrous outlet...and they are awesome...you can even lockout gears if you don't want to spray in first, and it goes off the TPS voltage.

And you don't have to worry about that little button switch....

Don't spray under 3000.

dnkynrbk

iTrader: (34)

I agree with jetlag. You better have your piggy bank said up for a motor. Just had a buddy lean his car out to big of shot and cracked the block and burned a hole in a piston. Forged pistons at that. Nitrous is not something to mess around with. Talk to a sponser and get a window switch and a w.o.t. esp. if this car is your daily driver.

mattl31

iTrader: (8)

dont scare this guy off just yet guys....a 100 shot on stock tune and stock A4 is very doable....as long as your careful. talk to a sponsor about getting setup with a good base dry kit. no sponsor on here is going to lead you wrong, and they are all good kits. your basic kits going to be a bottle, main feed line, nozzle, related wiring, and a solenoid (for a dry kit). you may spend give or take 300 bucks. then, at a very bare minimum....i'd suggest a wideband air/fuel gauge. this will allow you to monitor the fuel mixture in which your cylinders are burning and allow you to realize when youre running lean. when you run lean, your engine will generate tremendous amounts of heat that causes the horror stories of melted plugs, pistons, cracked blocks etc. i would also suggest a window switch like metioned above....it really simplifies everything. I have the dynotune unit that i picked up for 90 bucks used and its very very cool. you have the ability to lock out gears, engage ONLY at wide open throttle, and engage only in the desired RPM range. all of these aspects are things that contribute to keeping your engine operating safely. i spray mine from 3000 to 5500....so it shuts off through the shift on my A4, which should definitely keep it alive a lot longer than if was putting all 450 hp through the shift.

my kit (which i feel very confident while spraying) cosists of

dynotune dry kit
dynotune purge kit
dynotune window switch
fuel pressure safety switch
AEM UEGO wideband a/f gauge
dynotune bottle warmer
NGK tr6 plugs
minimum of 93 octane

anyway....if you do it right your engine and tranny should be fine....let me know if you have any more questions bud.

1969mach1

when spraying what should the a/f ratio be to be safe?
and if the windpw switch is cutting off at 5500, what rpm are you shifting at?

thanks,
Kennith