SamsonXD

I have a 99FRC with AFR 215 heads, Billet 236/238/112 cam, B&B bullet exhaust, ls6 intake, blackwing cai, Kooks headers,off road X pipe, spec 3+ clutch, hardened left halfshaft. HSW nitrous system, timing tuner and Nano system, my builder is chasing down some other piddly problems, so hope to spray it early next week, NA made 416RWHP and 405lbs torque (mustang dyno).

I am going to use a 125 N20 hit for now, In a few months I am looking to forge the motor, swap the ls6 for a fast 92/92 combo and go with a slightly more aggressive cam, then nuke the car with nitrous, I was thinking of going with a dual stage type set-up 100 shot dry to begin with then have the hundred cut off and the 200-250 shot wet kick in.

So does that sound like a good idea or is there a better way to go?

Thanks

jerrad

iTrader: (5)

Why shut off the dry? Just do 100 dry then 100-150 wet when you want it.

SamsonXD

I was talking to my friend/builder Scott at Intune motorsports I was looking at using the dry to get going off the line, and then hit it with the 200-250 to really get moving, I was looking at a way to get moving that would be a little gentler on the rear end and that was just one of the ideas that was kicked around that I liked alot without using a progressive controller.

jerrad

iTrader: (5)

I'm asking why you are turning off the dry and switching to only the wet once you get going. It would be smoother and easier to keep spraying the dry then add what ever wet kit on top of that.

ATVracr

iTrader: (5)

My car has been on the bumper from a Dry shot... they hit just as hard as a wet shot.

Jerrad is right, leave on the 100 Dry then hit it with the 250 wet on top of it.




.

SamsonXD

jerrad so you think that I should just keep the dry going say 100 shot then add the 150 shot on top of that at the same time, at what point would the rear end grenade? I think the thought on it was that the dry would get off the line and the bigger shot would be applied once the dry switched off allowing for a bigger hit over all and be alittle easier on the parts.

jerrad

iTrader: (5)

Well, if you want to spray a totla of 250hp the spray a 100 dry shot then when you get to 3rd gear or when ever you decide to spray you add in the 150 wet kit. You have to think, a 100 shot off the line will cause a jolt on the drive train, then at 60mph the 150 shot will add to make 250 total but you're only getting the new strain of 150hp. If you spray 100 off the line then shut it off and spray 250 all at once you're getting alot bigger stress than breaking them up.

SamsonXD

I hear you and I was thinking that as well at first, then I started thinking out loud if I did the 2 together I would get the 250 if I broke them up I could get 300 plus, the bigger stress I just didn't want comming off the line, the motor would be built to hold it all, I was not going to mess with the rearend until I broke it and then I was thinking of getting new gears when/if I do break it. I was hoping that the 200-250 hit would have less potential to tear things up if I hit it after I was allready rollin, I want to be faster then a 9:54 turbo vette that he built lol. I appreciate the ideas and I want to get this right the first time it is getting expensive to keep changing my mind lol.

jerrad

iTrader: (5)

100 shot and a 150 shot mean you have two times that the drive train has an extra amount of stress.

If you do a 100 shot and then take it off and spray a 250 wet hit you have two times that the drive train has an extra amount of stress.

In the first case you're putting less strain because the shots are lower hp shots.

SamsonXD

Hi jerrad thanks for comments I get what you are saying but if I continue to spray with the first method I am only getting the 250 hit(100 then 150) Is my logic flawed though by the second way I could get 300-350 hit, or is this like comparing apples to oranges lol, thanks again, I am just looking to maximize the biggest bang for the buck type thing

quickblade

I also think to keep the dry hitting... But I would think a wet shot is a little harsher on your equipment.. I see you are worried about what the juice will do to the car.. No one can ever really tell what a hit of juice is going to do to the internals.

As for rear end, I am thinking that is up in the air..

jerrad

iTrader: (5)

Well, spray 100 off the line then spray 500 on the second stage if you want. If you want 350 total then do 100 first stage and 250 for the second stage. That would total 350.

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

Here's what has been working very well for me for 3 years and close to 300 passes, 98% on the spray, and no blown rear, still stock except one hardened shaft. I have hit it with upto a 300rwhp shot. I use a dual stage dry, and now have triple stage dry. The real problem is getting it to hook up, and thus the reason we do it the way we do. Stage one comes on in 1st gear at launch, then 2nd stage is locked out (write up how-to in my web and costs about 3 dollars, lol) until I hit 2nd gear then both continue together till redline. Now I also have a 3rd stage that is on a WS and a button on the wheel, just add it into the mix when I feel lucky. The real key to a long rear end life in the vette is to allow a small amount of tire slip, yes I know a better 60 will ET faster, but when you consider the couple thousand $$ a rear cost, well i still have low 1.5x 60's. Your current motor can handle a 200rwhp and/or upto a 250 if you want push easily if you introduce some of the hit in the higher RPMs, and that the key to surviving a long life on the stock block (this is given that fuel system is ready). My 2nd stage comes on in 2nd gear at a high 4xxxrpm and the 3rd stage can come on at anything over 5xxxrpm. Also, all my systems are separate and/or automatic, meaning I can run one or or any combo of stages depending on track conditions, a very versatile set-up. By the way, what reasoning are you using for wanting to go with a wet 2nd stage? It surely will cost more than dry and no benefits that I am aware of. Check out the street/strip Direct Port dry I am doing for my stage 1, and will be moving to a Dry plate for second stage soon. Anyway, good luck and let me know if I can help. also a couple good fuel system upgrade write ups you may be able glean some insight from, check out both my webs for mucho vette stuff from many sources.
Robert

SamsonXD

Thanks Robert that is exactly what I was looking for, the fuel is good to go, I was just looking to use the wet because I have the HSW kit allready and the 125 shot is on there allready, we were just going to add the dry hit everything is allready for it for when the engine gets forged, no other reason that I know of anyways other then adding to the existing system. I was looking at your web site last night and found it very helpfull,

Thanks

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

Yea, that's a good reason having the kit already, lol. though, it could be made into a dry plate kit mucho easy, lol. keep us updated on what/when and how you go as this type of set-up is very interesting to many; to follow along with.
Robert