A body/ first gen f body with 4l60e in here please
#1
A body/ first gen f body with 4l60e in here please
I have the engine mocked into place, with BRP mount plates and I have the fram mounts bolted to the engine and will tach weld them to the frame when location is more final.
Problem is the rear of the engine sits high, headers like about 1/8th in from bolting up because they hit the floor and tranny contacts the firewall about an inch and a half before it will mount to the engine.
What did you guys do? Ideas?
Any help, pictures, comments appreciated.
Thanks!
Problem is the rear of the engine sits high, headers like about 1/8th in from bolting up because they hit the floor and tranny contacts the firewall about an inch and a half before it will mount to the engine.
What did you guys do? Ideas?
Any help, pictures, comments appreciated.
Thanks!
#3
Here is my clearance for the steering box, I might try a S10 box if its smaller, I have one in the scrap pile.
This shows the issue with the pan hitting the crossmember. Only on passenger side, my car has been wrecked and had the frame straightened but it looks like they could only pull it so far and made up the rest elsewhere. I'm going to try to relocate the brake line and hit this area with a grinder to gain some forward movement, if not I'll notch this area if needed.
This one is a shot between the firewall and engine from the bottom. It was a tight fit with the 700r4, and now with the engine moved back and up the tranny won't even come close to lining up with the engine. This is why I want to try to move things forward as much as possible.
I don't have any issues with the tie rods or anything...I just need the engine to come forward 1/4-1/2" really for everything but the tranny. Somehow the rear of the engine really needs to tilt down a little.
I'm thinking of replacing body bushings as well to give a little more clearance between the transmission and firewall/floor.
This shows the issue with the pan hitting the crossmember. Only on passenger side, my car has been wrecked and had the frame straightened but it looks like they could only pull it so far and made up the rest elsewhere. I'm going to try to relocate the brake line and hit this area with a grinder to gain some forward movement, if not I'll notch this area if needed.
This one is a shot between the firewall and engine from the bottom. It was a tight fit with the 700r4, and now with the engine moved back and up the tranny won't even come close to lining up with the engine. This is why I want to try to move things forward as much as possible.
I don't have any issues with the tie rods or anything...I just need the engine to come forward 1/4-1/2" really for everything but the tranny. Somehow the rear of the engine really needs to tilt down a little.
I'm thinking of replacing body bushings as well to give a little more clearance between the transmission and firewall/floor.
#4
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what motor mounts are you running? on my 69 camaro i was running the factory frame stands with energy motor mounts without the preload plates. my engine sat very low. i switched to some factory rubber mounts and gained 1/4 of space for my oil pan (autokraft).
i had trans tunel issues with my t56. i cut off an ear from my trans and also dented in the tunel with a hammer. i replaced my subframe body mounts a few years back with energy mounts. the car was never driven but towed to a few shops. not sure if that had anything to do with it. if i knew better i would have used aluminum busings.
i had trans tunel issues with my t56. i cut off an ear from my trans and also dented in the tunel with a hammer. i replaced my subframe body mounts a few years back with energy mounts. the car was never driven but towed to a few shops. not sure if that had anything to do with it. if i knew better i would have used aluminum busings.
#5
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Your setup is the same as mine (LS1/4l60e), but mine is in a 68 LeMans, which mechanically is the same as your 71. I'm also using the BRP plates, but I am also using their mounts and frame perches, as well as trans cross member. Here's what the mounts look like:
I have no issues with clearances and I didn't have to notch or grind anything on the motor or crossframe. The LS1 oil pan has not been notched either. I did cut off a couple of tabs on the transmission and also cut off the rear top mounts for the torque arm. I also enlarged the trans tunnel, but I was originally going to go with a t-56. Don't get me wrong, it is a tight fit, but it's in there....now I just have to finish up everything else.
I have tons more pictures in the link in my signature of my build so far.
Good luck,
Tony
I have no issues with clearances and I didn't have to notch or grind anything on the motor or crossframe. The LS1 oil pan has not been notched either. I did cut off a couple of tabs on the transmission and also cut off the rear top mounts for the torque arm. I also enlarged the trans tunnel, but I was originally going to go with a t-56. Don't get me wrong, it is a tight fit, but it's in there....now I just have to finish up everything else.
I have tons more pictures in the link in my signature of my build so far.
Good luck,
Tony
#6
how much did you enlarge the tunnel?
I am test fitting a dummy tranny case right now, its just the aluminum case and it doesnt have the torque arm ear or anything
so someone sells motor mounts that are shorter?
Here a pic of what I have now (please excuse the mess, I havent had the car out of the shop to steam clean it again yet): BRP 1/4" mount plates, SBC mount plate spacers (used for 4x4 or something), stock replacement mounts, stock frame mounts
I am test fitting a dummy tranny case right now, its just the aluminum case and it doesnt have the torque arm ear or anything
so someone sells motor mounts that are shorter?
Here a pic of what I have now (please excuse the mess, I havent had the car out of the shop to steam clean it again yet): BRP 1/4" mount plates, SBC mount plate spacers (used for 4x4 or something), stock replacement mounts, stock frame mounts
Last edited by thunderstruck507; 06-28-2008 at 10:26 AM.
#7
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I would say I enlarged the tunnel by about two inches at the top. I only enlarged the tunnel because the original plan was for a t-56. Most people say that it's not nesessary with the 4L60E, only a few well placed smacks with the BFH. I'm not sure about the different heights of motor mounts, but it looks like your frame mounts are taller than the ones I have. I bought these with the rest of the BRP stuff and they got the motor low enough so that the trans would go in without interference, but not so low that the oil pan hangs below the crossframe.
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#8
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I have a 69 Camaro with a LS7 4l60e. We tried every motor mount combo available, ATS, Hooker, S&P but ended up using ATS brackets, hooker plates and moved the mount hats(frame mounts) forward and downward to make it work. There are two different frame mounts for a F body. do a search at Camaros.net to see the diff. One is taller.
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When I done mine (Im using S&P mounts) I had to "flip" the trans mount on the transmisson crossmember. Mine is a Viper T-56, but you should lower the trans some how to get the right angle. Look on S&P (www.hotrodlane.cc) website for more info.
Ron
Ron
#10
I bolted up a dummy case and dropped them in together, some prybar work made it all slip into place.
I then put a jack under the transmission case and had at it...it moved anything that needed to be moved for about 1.5" so now it looks like everything is great except the exhaust would need to run through the crossmember, so I guess I get to build one that will drop down below the exhaust pipes. Should be fairly easy.
Anyone have a blueprint for one?
I then put a jack under the transmission case and had at it...it moved anything that needed to be moved for about 1.5" so now it looks like everything is great except the exhaust would need to run through the crossmember, so I guess I get to build one that will drop down below the exhaust pipes. Should be fairly easy.
Anyone have a blueprint for one?