Strano springs on stock shocks
07-26-2008, 12:27 PM
#1
Strano springs on stock shocks Yeah I know the car won't handle as well if I had some Konis on it. But I've had the springs sitting in the shop for a few months now and from the looks of it, these last few months before winter may be the last time I drive the car for a long time. So I really don't want to spend $800 on some shocks that will "rot away."
So how bad will the ride be with Strano springs and stock shocks? I won't be entering any auto-x events this year or anything like that and the roads here are decent. I just want to get rid of the 4x4 look, especially after the 9" install. I think the car rides good now, but I don't want it to be like my buddy's car that keeps bouncing a mile down the road after hitting a bump.
So how bad will the ride be with Strano springs and stock shocks? I won't be entering any auto-x events this year or anything like that and the roads here are decent. I just want to get rid of the 4x4 look, especially after the 9" install. I think the car rides good now, but I don't want it to be like my buddy's car that keeps bouncing a mile down the road after hitting a bump.
07-26-2008, 12:31 PM
#2
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i cant tell you how bad the ride will be....but i can tell you, if you're doing the work yourself, i'd rather wait and save my $ over winter for shocks and do it all at once. it's a pain in the *** to do shocks/springs and i sure as hell wouldnt want to do them 1 then the other. i did them both at the same time and i'm glad i did (it wasnt my 1st time doing springs on the car either and it's still a pain)
07-26-2008, 05:48 PM
#3
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I have stock shocks and strano springs on my car and i think the ride is better than stock. Less body roll and less of that old cadallic boat feel. The only issue i had with that is i got more wheel hop but thats not from the springs.
07-27-2008, 10:13 AM
#5
i cant tell you how bad the ride will be....but i can tell you, if you're doing the work yourself, i'd rather wait and save my $ over winter for shocks and do it all at once. it's a pain in the *** to do shocks/springs and i sure as hell wouldnt want to do them 1 then the other. i did them both at the same time and i'm glad i did (it wasnt my 1st time doing springs on the car either and it's still a pain)
07-27-2008, 10:17 AM
#7
Money is not a huge deal, I got a little extra laying around from my student load hehe. I just don't want to do the install and then have the Konis rot or something in the 2-3 years the car has to sit. Because by then Koni might not make the shock anymore and tell me to "F-off", or I voided some warranty, blah blah blah.
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07-27-2008, 11:38 AM
#8
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Pulling the tranny by your self. The only problem that you might need an extra set of hands is when your putting the struts back in the car. They are actually easy to do other than that. Myself and one other guy did mine in about 3 hours.
07-27-2008, 12:59 PM
#9
Nice, I pulled and installed my tranny by myself one night-that was a pain. Maybe I'll put the springs on next week or the week after. I'll call some alignment shops sometime this week and see how much a front end and thrust angle alignment would be.
07-27-2008, 09:06 PM
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07-28-2008, 06:06 AM
#13
Go ahead and do it.... You know that the stock shocks aren't great, but you've seen opinions where the car is better (and it is) because at least is rolls and pitches less. It's already underdamped as it sits. The better shocks add composure to the way the car drives and works over bumps.
And I might have missed who asked what, but an alignment is must due to the lowering. An adjustable PHB is strongly recommended, but not 100% required on every car. Should be done to counteract the change in distance from the axle and body side PHB mounts (which shifts the body), but because the PHB is so long the change is usually only around 1/8" or so. Now that 1/8" is 1/8" the car is crooked, and if you have big wheels and tires that could well be a rub issue as well. But you can always try without one, and add it later if you can't get away without a change in the length. FWIW, remember that aftermarket PHB's are also stronger and that means less lateral deflection when turning, so there is a handling benefit as well.
And I might have missed who asked what, but an alignment is must due to the lowering. An adjustable PHB is strongly recommended, but not 100% required on every car. Should be done to counteract the change in distance from the axle and body side PHB mounts (which shifts the body), but because the PHB is so long the change is usually only around 1/8" or so. Now that 1/8" is 1/8" the car is crooked, and if you have big wheels and tires that could well be a rub issue as well. But you can always try without one, and add it later if you can't get away without a change in the length. FWIW, remember that aftermarket PHB's are also stronger and that means less lateral deflection when turning, so there is a handling benefit as well.
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18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.
Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!
07-28-2008, 09:28 AM
#16
I don't think so.... You aren't laying under the car to do shocks/springs, they are much smaller to handle and you don't have any hidden bolts like the lovely one up on top of the bell housing. I can do shocks or front springs pretty fast, way more quickly than I can R&R an transmission.
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www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.
Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.
Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!
07-28-2008, 10:14 AM
#17
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well, ya..i forgot about that ******* bolt on top. i guess it goes for everything you do, once you figure it out (and the little secrets that help you the most), everything becomes easier. maybe i did the 2 diff suspension installs too far apart to remember. i dunno..
07-28-2008, 10:29 AM
#18
Go ahead and do it.... You know that the stock shocks aren't great, but you've seen opinions where the car is better (and it is) because at least is rolls and pitches less. It's already underdamped as it sits. The better shocks add composure to the way the car drives and works over bumps.
And I might have missed who asked what, but an alignment is must due to the lowering. An adjustable PHB is strongly recommended, but not 100% required on every car. Should be done to counteract the change in distance from the axle and body side PHB mounts (which shifts the body), but because the PHB is so long the change is usually only around 1/8" or so. Now that 1/8" is 1/8" the car is crooked, and if you have big wheels and tires that could well be a rub issue as well. But you can always try without one, and add it later if you can't get away without a change in the length. FWIW, remember that aftermarket PHB's are also stronger and that means less lateral deflection when turning, so there is a handling benefit as well.
And I might have missed who asked what, but an alignment is must due to the lowering. An adjustable PHB is strongly recommended, but not 100% required on every car. Should be done to counteract the change in distance from the axle and body side PHB mounts (which shifts the body), but because the PHB is so long the change is usually only around 1/8" or so. Now that 1/8" is 1/8" the car is crooked, and if you have big wheels and tires that could well be a rub issue as well. But you can always try without one, and add it later if you can't get away without a change in the length. FWIW, remember that aftermarket PHB's are also stronger and that means less lateral deflection when turning, so there is a handling benefit as well.
Cool, thanks Sam!
08-09-2008, 06:20 PM
#19
I got the springs installed today, took 4-5 hours only because the passenger shock bolt was rusted really bad. Car feels the same to me, car sits a lot better now! The measurements are: Front Left: 26.25", Front Right: 26", Rear Right and left: 27".
Don't know why the front left is 1/4 more, maybe it just has to sit for a little bit.
Don't know why the front left is 1/4 more, maybe it just has to sit for a little bit.
