SpecterGT260

iTrader: (3)

Ive got some money sittin here..... but only some. I was set on a 9", but a builder i know told me they are a pain due to the different pinion angle, and to go with an s60 instead. I am having trouble finding alot of information on the s60, but it seems like they arent as direct boltup as the 9". you need a new drive shaft for one.


as far as money goes, all REQUIRED supporting parts, out the door, which is the cheaper part? A sponsor here showed me a 9" with all the fixins for like 2400 which aint bad imo. am I going to spend more getting an s60 to mate up just to reduce a couple degrees on the pinion angle?

the car is going into the shop today for a clutch/hydraulics replacement, so fast info and links will be more than welcome. I need to make a fast decision. Im gunna go put my car on the trailer, so ill be back around 5 to check back.


Thanks in advance guys.


btw, the full job list while the car is gone is a fuel pump (255L) install on a 98, spec 3+ and all the trimmings, rear end install, and a full nitrous dyno tune.

Steve Burger

iTrader: (33)

I would go 9" over the S60. It will be cheaper, lighter, and easier to find parts if needed.

kenSS

iTrader: (1)

i have an S60, love it. But yes you will need another driveshaft.

SpecterGT260

iTrader: (3)

and the 9" can use the stock DS right?

EPP

iTrader: (22)

Yes it can, but the driveshaft ends up one sticking into the transmission tailshaft one inch less than it did with the 10 bolt. Normally this is not a problem, but several people have experienced vibrations that were eliminated by going to a one inch longer driveshaft. Bob

35th SS

iTrader: (2)

Yes I can confirm this.running a stock aluminum d/s on the 35th on a Currie 9in.no vibrations here since I just dyno the car 2 days ago.

studderin

iTrader: (28)

I dont see why a DS would be a affect on price, your probally gona need a stronger DS anyway. I had a DS made local with the 1350 (maybe its the 1330?) the stronger non greese fitting DOM steel DS made for like $220, and you can sell you alum one for $100-150.

jetlag

iTrader: (32)

Do you still have the stock torque arm? You might want to upgrade that also..

After searching around and comparing prices...a Fabricated 9" comes out to about the same price as a regular 9" because it comes with a new torque arm and crossmember.

If you already had an aftermarket torque arm, then the 9" would be cheaper..IMO.

SuperSlow02

iTrader: (16)

9in and dont look back

SpecterGT260

iTrader: (3)

I ended up with the S60 because they said they could get me a deal. well, that was without DS apparently, so the whole thing was about 2600. I was a little irritated by that but at least its bullitproof now

Midnight02

iTrader: (8)

If you don't mind my asking, what did they charge you to install the new rear? Just trying to get a ballpark idea of the total cost.

SpecterGT260

iTrader: (3)

i had them do alot of other things so im not sure. they did a fuel pump install, clutch.... lots of things. since it was all on the belly and rear the work overlapped

DiabloFormula

iTrader: (58)

Spend the extra $2-$300 for the Midwest Chassis Fab.9", almost the same weight as a 10 bolt, TRUE bolt in, and you get a custom long or short version TQ arm, and as for pinion angles....people make it sound so complicated but with a little research, it really isn't. I love my fab 9", the money I spent on it and the time it took to build was all well worth it.

SpecterGT260

iTrader: (3)

the s60 is already in....