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Solid Crush sleave

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Old 09-17-2008, 10:02 AM
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Default Solid Crush sleave

Does anyone happen to have any extras? And is it really worth it? Also, how can I tell if the one I have is a solid or regular?

thanks!

-Karl
Old 09-17-2008, 10:23 AM
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what rearend do you have? there are different types and sizes depending on the rearend.
Old 09-17-2008, 11:29 AM
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The only advantage to the solid sleeve is that it is reuseable. I think its tough to shim it properly, thats why i preffer the stock sleeve. It crushes to exactly where it needs to be, no guess work involved.
Old 09-17-2008, 02:41 PM
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i have the factory 10 bolt still. doing 4.10s in the next week or two once i get time to put em in.
Old 09-17-2008, 02:57 PM
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The solid one is just a stack of shims and a tubular hard
collar. If you're just replacing the crush collar (or believe
factory tolerances are tight enough) you can get close or
even perfect by mic'ing the old collar and assembling the
same height out of the pieces. My 3.23->3.42 swap went
fine like that, perfect, no whine and no drips out the snout
either. Anyway you can get close / lucky like that. Though
the pattern wants checked properly before you call it done.

The hard collar kit is only like $20-$30 from Ratech as I recall.
I bought the total rebuild kit since I had a whole mess of
stock Torsen shavings in the pumpkin.
Old 09-18-2008, 08:29 PM
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what should it be torqued down to?
Old 09-19-2008, 12:19 AM
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The good thing about the solid sleeve is that it keeps a much more consistent preload on the pinion nut.

As far a tq specs go i would run what was recommended with the crush sleeve.
Old 09-19-2008, 07:17 AM
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I swapped the crush sleeve out of my Strange 12-bolt for one of their solid kits.

From someone that does a lot of Jeep axles for people, I HATE crush sleeves. Once they're crushed, they're done. You have to put so much torque on them to get them crushing. Then be careful not to over torque. I almost always buy an extra sleeve or two if I know Im going to be doing some gear setups.

The solid sleeve is a cake walk. You start off like jimmyblue said. Mic the crush sleeve, and set your solid spacer up at that spec. Thats your starting point. Crank the pinion nut down with an air gun, check the pre-load, make a couple quick small adjustments and bam, youre done. If you need to take it apart for some reason...no muss, no fuss. Take it apart, put it back together.

So far Im liking mine. Ide like to track some down for the 8.8 because I do a lot of those for people. Never really thought to look.

J.




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