Koni install kicking my A$$...Please help soon!
#1
Koni install kicking my A$$...Please help soon!
After breaking both sway bar end links i've finally made it to the point where you remove the drivers side shock. I loosened both of the nuts holding the master cylinder to the brake booster, but even with a lot of force, i still can't get a T-50 torx in there. Car is a northern car and rust has been an issue. What would i have to do if i completely remove the MS from the booster??
Patiently waiting......
thanks guys!
__________________
Patiently waiting......
thanks guys!
__________________
#2
TECH Resident
iTrader: (60)
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Jacksonville, Florida
Posts: 849
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
mine did nothnig just pull it out and try and rest it on the part right in front of the windsheild wiper tray or plate whatever you call it. Then you can get in there to loosen the shock bolts
#3
TECH Addict
iTrader: (2)
just be sure when you reinstall everything to swap 2 of the regular hex bolts from the passenger's side over to the driver's side, and put the two Torx bolts over on the passenger's side (preferably the two on the side closer to the front of the car, as they are the same length as the Torx bolts)....that way if you ever have to do it again for any reason, you won't even have to touch the brake booster next time, just get in there with a regular box-end wrench instead.
i'm not sure what the hell GM was thinking when they put those stupid Torx bolts on that side.....
oh, and that would be "MC", not "MS"....
i'm not sure what the hell GM was thinking when they put those stupid Torx bolts on that side.....
oh, and that would be "MC", not "MS"....
#4
just be sure when you reinstall everything to swap 2 of the regular hex bolts from the passenger's side over to the driver's side, and put the two Torx bolts over on the passenger's side (preferably the two on the side closer to the front of the car, as they are the same length as the Torx bolts)....that way if you ever have to do it again for any reason, you won't even have to touch the brake booster next time, just get in there with a regular box-end wrench instead.
i'm not sure what the hell GM was thinking when they put those stupid Torx bolts on that side.....
oh, and that would be "MC", not "MS"....
i'm not sure what the hell GM was thinking when they put those stupid Torx bolts on that side.....
oh, and that would be "MC", not "MS"....
Good call on the "MS", you got me.
Trending Topics
#8
TECH Addict
iTrader: (5)
I didn't touch my sway bar links and it's nothing to remove the master and pull it up and over the cowl. I used a long handle ratchet with my T-50. I will say, even being down in NC, there was rust on the top of the upper control arm that I whiz wheeled off. Water gets trapped in there with no where to go. I used a pry bar under the bottom of the shock to pop it out and slid it towards the rear, pulled the whole assembly down, then pull the whole thing up and out. It's my 3rd time and I just did mine yesterday. Let me know if you need any other help, headed to church in 15 minutes.
#11
On The Tree
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: San Jose, Ca
Posts: 173
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
follow these instructions. http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=6
what i did was pull the MS away from the booster but i did not remove it. pretty much all you want to do is turn it so you can get the hex50 in there.
what i did was pull the MS away from the booster but i did not remove it. pretty much all you want to do is turn it so you can get the hex50 in there.
#13
Thanks for the input guys. I got the driver side re installed and am currently about to re install the shock/spring combo back in the pass side. That rusted nut on the pass side was a real pita, lucky for that decarbon i didn't have any blades for the sawzall!
More to come...
More to come...