ABS + TRAC OFF + BRAKE light!!
10-01-2008, 08:00 PM
#1
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ABS + TRAC OFF + BRAKE light!! I've searched plenty and this seems to be an intermittent phenomenon. Most results show a faulty speed sensor.
My question... who diagnosed it for you and about how much did they charge.
Anyone fix the problem themselves?
My question... who diagnosed it for you and about how much did they charge.
Anyone fix the problem themselves?
10-01-2008, 10:11 PM
#3
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only happens to me when I have my prostars on with 28in tires in the back and 26in in the front, PCM cant understand the difference and just gives up. So yes its a speed sensor..as to whats wrong with yours, dunno
10-02-2008, 04:24 AM
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Thanks!
Thanks!
10-02-2008, 05:22 AM
#6
We manufacture an ABS delete kit to remove the ABS system so you’re not handicapped using only stock diameter wheels. Once you start altering diameters, you're ABS system is not calibrated for it. ABS will actually hinder your braking performance.
You’ll lose quite a bit of weight, decrease clutter increasing air-flow as well under the hood. You’ll also have control over your braking system since all our kits include a wildwood proportioning valve. No more worries about ever dealing or spending money on your ABS system again!
Your adjustments you've made i.e. 25.7 relates to speedometer calibration, not your ABS system's computer which is separate. The ABS systems computer is called an EBCM (Electronic Braking Control Module). Your tire theoretically is sized closer to 26.2 btw. Possibly not enough to see what you're describing... There is a small % of tolerance. I'm not convinced this is your problem but doesn't hurt to verify if the issue goes away with the stock tires (if you can easily change over).
Unless you’re one that “has to have” your ABS system for some reason or another, then fix it. Otherwise, if you remove it, if you never felt pulsing in your braking system, you’ll never know it was gone. Normal braking is not affected. Actually, as previously mentioned, you’ll have more control over your brake bias with the kit.
Good luck.
You’ll lose quite a bit of weight, decrease clutter increasing air-flow as well under the hood. You’ll also have control over your braking system since all our kits include a wildwood proportioning valve. No more worries about ever dealing or spending money on your ABS system again!
Your adjustments you've made i.e. 25.7 relates to speedometer calibration, not your ABS system's computer which is separate. The ABS systems computer is called an EBCM (Electronic Braking Control Module). Your tire theoretically is sized closer to 26.2 btw. Possibly not enough to see what you're describing... There is a small % of tolerance. I'm not convinced this is your problem but doesn't hurt to verify if the issue goes away with the stock tires (if you can easily change over).
Unless you’re one that “has to have” your ABS system for some reason or another, then fix it. Otherwise, if you remove it, if you never felt pulsing in your braking system, you’ll never know it was gone. Normal braking is not affected. Actually, as previously mentioned, you’ll have more control over your brake bias with the kit.
Good luck.
Last edited by SJM Manufacturing Inc; 10-02-2008 at 05:38 AM.
10-02-2008, 11:56 AM
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^^ Thank you for your input Steve. I have read your posts before and considered your kit. If I'm able to repair it cheaply, then I'll do so. If is going to cost me, I will just purchase the kit. The lack of ABS wouldn't be too much a problem as it's not my daily driver and rarely drive it in inclement weather.
Thanks again
Thanks again
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10-02-2008, 02:06 PM
#8
You're welcome.
... If you can't fix it yourself, it probably won't be worth it. At typically 40-60.00 per hour plus parts, a shop can become costly.
ABS problems seem to be very common. When it's gone, there's never an issue or future costs involved for repairs :-). Future brake bleeding also becomes much easier.
... If you can't fix it yourself, it probably won't be worth it. At typically 40-60.00 per hour plus parts, a shop can become costly.
ABS problems seem to be very common. When it's gone, there's never an issue or future costs involved for repairs :-). Future brake bleeding also becomes much easier.
10-02-2008, 03:10 PM
#9
The problem could be the difference in the circumference of your front and rear tires (you didn't say if the front and rear are the same). If the ABS sensor detects a noticeable difference (+2% comes to mind) between the front and the rear, it shuts off the ABS and sets the light.
10-02-2008, 03:27 PM
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The problem could be the difference in the circumference of your front and rear tires (you didn't say if the front and rear are the same). If the ABS sensor detects a noticeable difference (+2% comes to mind) between the front and the rear, it shuts off the ABS and sets the light.
315/35's in the rear. I ran this setup for a while with no issues maintaining a 25.7" diameter. Then it started...
10-02-2008, 07:12 PM
#13
Tuning software is not available for the EBCM.
Pulling the fuse will stop the annoying brake pulsing and other problems associated and is a quick fix. The only concern to consider is the fact the EBCM computer compensated for bias adjustments. You have ~50/50 braking which means your rears will have a tendancy to lock before the fronts. The bad part of this is now your braking distances will suffer as you will not be able to fully utilizing all four brakes to stop the car to its potential.
Rear brakes locking before fronts as you threshold brake could mean as the rear locks on a turn, you'll can spin the rear-end out on you causing unpredicable braking.
If one does not want to remove the dead weight and clean up the car by removal of the ABS system, at least I'd suggest installing a proportioning valve to adjust front/rear biasing. This is why every one of our kits include the ADJUSTABLE valve. Adjustability is important as no one car will need the same bias. Different brakes/pads/rotors weight distribution, tire selection etc will all have an effect on what your particular car needs.
Our kits start at 139.99 which include all pre-formed lines and every fitting necessary AND the adjustable Wilwood valve w/mounting kit. If one cannot purchase the kit, the willwood valve w/mounting hardware is ~50.00 but you'll need to fab up something to make it fit with the stock lines.
Pulling the fuse will stop the annoying brake pulsing and other problems associated and is a quick fix. The only concern to consider is the fact the EBCM computer compensated for bias adjustments. You have ~50/50 braking which means your rears will have a tendancy to lock before the fronts. The bad part of this is now your braking distances will suffer as you will not be able to fully utilizing all four brakes to stop the car to its potential.
Rear brakes locking before fronts as you threshold brake could mean as the rear locks on a turn, you'll can spin the rear-end out on you causing unpredicable braking.
If one does not want to remove the dead weight and clean up the car by removal of the ABS system, at least I'd suggest installing a proportioning valve to adjust front/rear biasing. This is why every one of our kits include the ADJUSTABLE valve. Adjustability is important as no one car will need the same bias. Different brakes/pads/rotors weight distribution, tire selection etc will all have an effect on what your particular car needs.
Our kits start at 139.99 which include all pre-formed lines and every fitting necessary AND the adjustable Wilwood valve w/mounting kit. If one cannot purchase the kit, the willwood valve w/mounting hardware is ~50.00 but you'll need to fab up something to make it fit with the stock lines.
Last edited by SJM Manufacturing Inc; 10-02-2008 at 07:18 PM.
10-02-2008, 08:16 PM
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Im suprised I havnt noticed any brake lock up, Our 1/8th mile track isnt very long either lol. But its about winter, so the stars are coming off and the crappy factory wheels are going back on 
10-02-2008, 08:27 PM
#15
Personally, I like ABS and would never consider removing it. It has saved my behind twice in inclement weather. JMHO.
10-02-2008, 08:57 PM
#16
To each his own regarding removing ABS. Some people do feel safer with it functional. The only time it's actually ever used is when your feeling pulsing in your braking system. Many times...it's not even when you want it to work in my opinion. My feeling is the stock ABS system hinders performance regarding road race or drag race applications. It is more of a handicap vs. help.
When your calibration is off from modifications, your ABS system actually creates more problems and reduces its effectiveness...so when your relying on it, it may not help you as well as it could have (or not at all...possibly hurting you).
Of course, if you use the car for non performance applications...it may be better to just leave well enough alone. No sense modifying anything on the car as out of the box, its a very good combination.
My feeling is most of the people purchase them for racing applications or performance, especially with gas prices these days, who wants a daily driver that gets ~17-20mpg when you can get a car which sees twice the gas milage.
When your calibration is off from modifications, your ABS system actually creates more problems and reduces its effectiveness...so when your relying on it, it may not help you as well as it could have (or not at all...possibly hurting you).
Of course, if you use the car for non performance applications...it may be better to just leave well enough alone. No sense modifying anything on the car as out of the box, its a very good combination.
My feeling is most of the people purchase them for racing applications or performance, especially with gas prices these days, who wants a daily driver that gets ~17-20mpg when you can get a car which sees twice the gas milage.
11-04-2008, 03:56 PM
#20
None of it will work when you remove the whole module, I'd advise fixing it if you care to keep ABS/TCS.
Our kits are designed to completely remove the whole setup, replacing the module and bracket with preformed lines and adjustable proportioning valve so that you can bias front/rear brakes.
Our kits are designed to completely remove the whole setup, replacing the module and bracket with preformed lines and adjustable proportioning valve so that you can bias front/rear brakes.