gilroy222

I came accross an old thread on the jack points for the MCSS. apparently there's two marking on the rocker panel. Do the GXP's have the same markings cause mine doesn't seem to have it...

I'm doing my brakes next weekend and I need some place to put my jack stands under.

Also when doing the rear disc I heard I need a special tool to reset the E-brake cable? Does anybody know anything about that?

need4z

iTrader: (5)

Owners manual... You can just see where the frame rails are when jacked up.. Not hard if you have done lots of jacking up late model cars bud. Its an easy eyeball job.

dezldave961

I prefer the engine cradle over crunching the pinch points of the sheetmetal. There's the rear mounting bolts, and the entire front beam, depending on where you're lifting. Also allows for many firm stand locations that won't ruin your underbody.

For the rear, you can jack from some of the suspension mounting points. I forget what locations without being out there, but I usually put the stand under one of the ends of the trailing arm, including front end. If your work permits, it's very convenient to jack up the center of the rear suspension crossmember (hidden some by exhaust Y-split), and place stands in one of many firm/rigid locations available.

Obligatory safety/experience warning... don't do anything you're not comfortable or qualified to do with regards to lifting up part of an almost 2-ton vehicle.

gilroy222

Ok, thanks. I'll take a look.

I wouldn't say I'm uncomfortable as I used to always jack up my truck and work undernieth it, just with me being new to cars I'd like to learn the best places to jack up these uni-bodies.

Any word on resetting the e-brake?

The_Madcat

I don't know of any procedure if you are just changing the rotor. If you were changing the e-brake pads, then you might have to fiddle a bit with the adjuster but I don't think you need to do anything if just replacing the rotor. I can't see the brake being used enough to wear down the inner surfaces enough to have to adjust the e-brake after the replacement.

gilroy222

That's what I thought. I never heard of having to do that until the other day my friend explained that his dad found he couldn't reset one of the caliper pistons until carquest gave em a special tool with a cube on it saying it was all cause of the E-brake. I haven't got a look at this tool since I haven't had time to do my brakes yet but we'll see. There's a big difference cause that vehicle is a ford minivan lol.

But I have come accross threads of guys with normal GP's saying that needed that due to the same problem so i dunno.... Apparently the e-brake caliper piston needs to be turned with this tool back into place? instead of using a regular reset tool or c-clamp...

But if ours are drum in hat e-brakes that would be totally different wouldn't it?

dezldave961

Unless it changed from 97-03 (doubtful), it's only a screwdriver to turn a star collar around the small e-brake piston. Our caliper pistons behave normally, and the e-brake is just spring loaded.

The square end is for a totally different style where the piston is rotated to recess back into the caliper... found in various other, usually older designs, which some models stick to due to cost vs. durability. The last one I worked on, was on a Fiero, I think.

gilroy222

Sounds like I should be ok then...

Thanks