Sint3k

So after not being able to find a reliable source for poly motor mounts I've come to the conclusion I'm going to make my own. Its very simple. Ive ordered 2 stock motor mounts which i will gut as much rubber as possible and fill with and shape with 94a urethane. I've already done this to my front mount. I'm going to drive on it for a month and see how this goes, if all goes well and it does not separate in anyway I'll post my instructions and how i went about doing it. At that time then i'll do the rear motor mount and maybe the trans mount. I' will also do the subframe mounts the same way if it all turns out well which i predict it will.

91parkave

iTrader: (4)

Subfamily mounts won't happen the way you think, and x11 nut was making the custom mounts

Sint3k

We shall see,i think the other mounts will turn out great tho x11 said his will be ready in a few weeks , so of thats the case then if mine dosnt workout so well ill pick up a set off him

08 pimpala ss

I wouldn't waste your time or money I have all 3 mounts by x11nut and the best thing I could of every done no vibration and super solid

91parkave

iTrader: (4)

Soon as I get back I'll be getting into solid machined poly subframe bushings

superglide9375

X11nut is the way to go,don't ef around here on this issue,yea they pricey but worth it i have r/s mount,and hopefully getting the other two soon

Sint3k

Does this look like im "f'n" around to you ?

91parkave

iTrader: (4)

That's not the part of the mount that's gonna help you the most. The front motor mount under acceleration is going to lift up rather than push down. Keeping that retaining bar attached to the base plate would of made more sense

Sint3k

The retaining bar is still there, its encased in the polyurthane. Up/Down,Left,Right Its not going anywhere. I've had it installed for 2 weeks now, and I also did the passenger side trans mount.

91parkave

iTrader: (4)

I should've clarified, I meant the retain bar to metal base plate. (Example heavy duty safety wire or metal bar to lock the mount to itself) that keeps the mount from lifting. The way you have it, the mount can still lift just harder to push down

Sint3k

I really don't see how you think this mount will "lift". The only way this mount would "lift" is if the urthane tore completely and separated from the bottom of the mount. The oil filled area that met the metal plate is full of urthane, and the cup underneath it has holes drilled into it and its filled with urthane. The entire mount is one solid piece of urethane. As i said, it does not move up,down,left,right. ANYWAYS, I like it, worked fine so far. The engine does not move at all when just free revving it, almost like its a solid mount. The "play" that you feel when getting into the throttle is gone too. Almost like it made it feel snappier on throttle inputs, its hard to describe.

superglide9375

dam looks good,nice work

superglide9375

sure u not efing around?

rottonj

iTrader: (4)

Nice job. Do you have a pic of the transmission mount as well? Any vibration using these combo's?

Sint3k

lol, maybe a little but im super super happy how it turned out.

Sint3k

There is vibration at idle, and also when the engine is cranking there is more of a "thud". But the engine does not move hardly at all when free revving.

So, here is an example, before I would have my hood open, and i would push the car with my knees you can see the engine rock a good half inch+ depending on how hard you pushed. After doing these mounts it literally does not move at all. Also, another reason why i did these mounts was because when i had my transmission out, I did not use new subframe bolts and i had a terible "Creaking". So i replaced those subframe bolts and no more creaking. Super super happy with the mounts and cost 100 total.

Sint3k

Duct tape works excellent as a mold release, the adhesive from the duct tape helps its separate from the urthane.

This is the urhane I used, The Devcon urthane uses a hardner that is pretty solid after 30 minutes, and "functionally cured within 24 hours", but fully cured in 7 days. After 24 hours mine where solid as rocks.
The shore hardness of the Devcon 15250 is 97 Shore A

I've also seen people use the 3m Window-Weld black super fast urethane
The 3m uses humidity to cure, so if you use this, do it in thin laters and wait for it to cure.
The hardness is only 60 Shore A, but big differences im sure none the less.
http://www.autozone.com/sealants-glu...?checkfit=true