Dyno 323FTQ @ 3200RPM... Then Lean, Dies... GOD DAMIT!!!
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Dyno 323FTQ @ 3200RPM... Then Lean, Dies... GOD DAMIT!!!
So finally I got a shop to do the oil seal and felt like an idiot after they showed me the tool they have to do it... yay water pump shaft timing cover seal...
So its off to the dyno, I had put the MSD Opti all the way down and then out 2 turns for stock timing since I got a code 41 yesterday. Car seemed fine.
Got ont he dyno and I have videos. But it smoked like a damn chimney just as I said it had been only it started smoke after 3000rpms and thats right where it went SUPER Lean.....
I will post a pic of the dyno graph too. I swapped in another ICM as the car would die randomly... it started and ran worse... I had a stored code but no light again code 41....
WTF!!!!!!! New MSD Opti new everything basically and here this whole time we thought it was fuel and its def not running rich according to the wide band.... super lean and can not get above 4k.....
On the only positive note I made 323FTQ at the Wheels at 3200RPM... So it should be a good motor... when I put a new bottom end on it.(Mustang Dyno)
Shop agreed it was kinda rich down low but after 3000k it started to just go from right on to super lean. They did not think it was a head gasket or valve seals. They felt it was rings being fried.
So I am looking at a stock bottom end thats just been rebuilt to stock specs here and going to go from there... but frankly.... I am beyond pissed.
The car started this code 41 and stalling thing yesterday. I swapped the MAF and cleaned the new one, its has a test good ICM on it and it i back at stock MSD timing yet its running this lean.... and suddenly now will not go above 4k on the dyno...... great.
Can I please get some information and avice as to what those around thinkis going on?
For those not familure:
Basically the GM LT4 Hot Kit
Rebuilt Bottom End to all stock
LT4 Hotcam
LT4 Heads and LT4 IM have mild porting
Basic Bolt ons
MadTuner Tune
LT4KM
MSD Opti
I just want to be done with pulling motors for awhile damit!!!
So its off to the dyno, I had put the MSD Opti all the way down and then out 2 turns for stock timing since I got a code 41 yesterday. Car seemed fine.
Got ont he dyno and I have videos. But it smoked like a damn chimney just as I said it had been only it started smoke after 3000rpms and thats right where it went SUPER Lean.....
I will post a pic of the dyno graph too. I swapped in another ICM as the car would die randomly... it started and ran worse... I had a stored code but no light again code 41....
WTF!!!!!!! New MSD Opti new everything basically and here this whole time we thought it was fuel and its def not running rich according to the wide band.... super lean and can not get above 4k.....
On the only positive note I made 323FTQ at the Wheels at 3200RPM... So it should be a good motor... when I put a new bottom end on it.(Mustang Dyno)
Shop agreed it was kinda rich down low but after 3000k it started to just go from right on to super lean. They did not think it was a head gasket or valve seals. They felt it was rings being fried.
So I am looking at a stock bottom end thats just been rebuilt to stock specs here and going to go from there... but frankly.... I am beyond pissed.
The car started this code 41 and stalling thing yesterday. I swapped the MAF and cleaned the new one, its has a test good ICM on it and it i back at stock MSD timing yet its running this lean.... and suddenly now will not go above 4k on the dyno...... great.
Can I please get some information and avice as to what those around thinkis going on?
For those not familure:
Basically the GM LT4 Hot Kit
Rebuilt Bottom End to all stock
LT4 Hotcam
LT4 Heads and LT4 IM have mild porting
Basic Bolt ons
MadTuner Tune
LT4KM
MSD Opti
I just want to be done with pulling motors for awhile damit!!!
#2
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A missfire will read lean because the oxygen was not used to burn fuel.
The MSD opti is far LESS reliable than stock and you played with fire when you played with the screw. You have no idea what the timing is now till you degree the damper fab a pointer and put a timing light too it.
Rebuilt does not mean equal or better than stock, just as easily could be a step backwards.
The LT4 stuff is a mediocre at best choice.
Yu gave us the code but not which pcm????? A signature would help a lot.
The MSD opti is far LESS reliable than stock and you played with fire when you played with the screw. You have no idea what the timing is now till you degree the damper fab a pointer and put a timing light too it.
Rebuilt does not mean equal or better than stock, just as easily could be a step backwards.
The LT4 stuff is a mediocre at best choice.
Yu gave us the code but not which pcm????? A signature would help a lot.
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But on the misfire it should be black at those times correct? This was Gray to White.
I guess so with the MSD, it def seems to be having opti problems now....
PCM so far as I know is a 94 ECU.
I did not build the motor nor choose the LT4 Stuff, came in the donar car I bought for the motor and tranny. I am not looking for a real mean car just a fun car to play with and DD. I doubt I would do anything more then add a little bigger cam and just keep driving it with bolt ons etc and looking into E85.
Let me transfer my sig from LTxTech.
I guess so with the MSD, it def seems to be having opti problems now....
PCM so far as I know is a 94 ECU.
I did not build the motor nor choose the LT4 Stuff, came in the donar car I bought for the motor and tranny. I am not looking for a real mean car just a fun car to play with and DD. I doubt I would do anything more then add a little bigger cam and just keep driving it with bolt ons etc and looking into E85.
Let me transfer my sig from LTxTech.
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but supposedly stock settings are to go all the way in then 2 out. Which I did.
However it almost seems as though the opti failed for another reason. If it even failed I am only guessing. This problem seemed to happen after pulling the Water pump and doing the seal.
However it almost seems as though the opti failed for another reason. If it even failed I am only guessing. This problem seemed to happen after pulling the Water pump and doing the seal.
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So it gets better.
Today the dyno shop calls me and says the o2 was faulty and it was rich but def oil too. (Claims that killed the o2)
So now I have no idea what to think.
Tomorrow I am pulling the msd opti off. Yay for removing the water pump again.
I am going to open it and check it but we shall see where we are at.
Today the dyno shop calls me and says the o2 was faulty and it was rich but def oil too. (Claims that killed the o2)
So now I have no idea what to think.
Tomorrow I am pulling the msd opti off. Yay for removing the water pump again.
I am going to open it and check it but we shall see where we are at.