Griffin Radiator for stand up
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Griffin Radiator for stand up
how many of you guys have ditched your a/c and put a griffin radiator in for a stand up instead of the stock angled one? I know a bunch of the LS1 guys have done them so just curious if its the same process and part numbers for our cars?
#3
I have a vertical Aluminum after market radiator ( can't remember the brand) with my LT1, but it isn't in a F body. Be careful with Griffin, I put one in my Chevelle brand new from Summit. I filled it up and it started leaking, never even finished filling the system. They had a large pinhole in a weld on one of the tanks, Summit took care of me, but when I talked to Griffin they acted concerned, but it didn't seem sincere or even like a big deal that it obviously hadn't been leak tested let alone pressure tested yet it was signed off with initials as having been done.
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I have a vertical Aluminum after market radiator ( can't remember the brand) with my LT1, but it isn't in a F body. Be careful with Griffin, I put one in my Chevelle brand new from Summit. I filled it up and it started leaking, never even finished filling the system. They had a large pinhole in a weld on one of the tanks, Summit took care of me, but when I talked to Griffin they acted concerned, but it didn't seem sincere or even like a big deal that it obviously hadn't been leak tested let alone pressure tested yet it was signed off with initials as having been done.
Quick question- if you convert to a stand up radiator, is there not enough room for the condenser anymore? i dont understand why you cant have A/C still
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#8
I just must have not been the lucky one and it was built on Friday the thirteenth or something. My buddy has one without a problem, and I am running the replacement still. I will tell you that I won't ever buy one again though, the price isn't worth the time or hassle. I am pretty sore because it kept me from firing up a fresh motor for almost a week, not to mention draining the coolant with no radiator petcock. Why don't after market radiators have a darn petcock? I used a used AFCO ($50)with my LT1/4runner conversion and am happy with it. Price is just about the same as Griffin for a new one though, but a much nicer product.
#11
Hope you don't mind me chiming in, but the coolant sensor is not really needed. The only thing is does is detect low coolant (low coolant light), the sensor in the pump still detects coolant temp activity.
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somebody please make a how to thread on this, like what part # for the radiator and where to cut out the crossmember etc... if you can do this and keep AC what exactly would be the down side?
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Its actually pretty easy to do. Ive thought about making the weld in peice for the radiator support and selling them. Theres just to many options and variables to do a "whole" kit. Either way some welding would be required. Ben and I used AN fittings on the radiators and the water pump. We bought weld on bungs and had them tigged to the water pump and t-stat housing. I also had griffin put a -6 an for the steam line and did that all in braided. I used -16 for the main coolant hoses.
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uh for us retarded kids how bout a version of this that just fits up to the stock type hoses, perhaps a bit longer upper one but otherwise more bolt on than all this AN-16 stuff?
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Thats what I meant by to many variables. The first one we did on Bens car was going to use rubber hose. It was real difficult to find hoses to work. We was going to end up having to use the universal flex hose and it really looked like crap. So he sent his back and had them put the AN stuff on it. His car was like a guinea pig, mine went really smooth.
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Really didnt notice any difference in cooling. Runs right where it did before. Its more about all the room you gain under the hood. I can do opti changes without getting underneath the car, and I seem to be changing alot of optis lol.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dmw5gfmTV1c
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dmw5gfmTV1c
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I almost finished mine yesterday all it needs is brackets to hold it down, its a really easy job. I opted to leave the core support just cut it for the radiator and then notched out where the cap is going. I did it with only a cutoff wheel and grinder. All I have to do is make some brackets to help hold it in place. But I'd say it can be done without a welder just depends on how you want to do it.