LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Anyone using the felpro blue pan gasket

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Old 01-21-2009, 02:53 AM
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Default Anyone using the felpro blue pan gasket

Instructions say not to use any sealant on the gasket,does it seal well in the corners without it. Don't want to have to take it back apart cus it leaks. THANKS JOHN B
Old 01-21-2009, 04:08 AM
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i have them on my car and the back gasket leaks a little bit so i lifted the block an put silacone all the way around it and now no leaks! so i'd put sealent. with these LT1's they like to leak anywhere and everwhere so put Lock tight on EVERY nut an bolt and use lots of silacone! lol i just used RV clear silacone...
Old 01-21-2009, 04:21 AM
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I honestly don't remember if I used Sealant with that Blue Gasket. I did use it on my LT1 and it worked well. Me being the way am, I probably used it in an area that I thought would have been a gap.
Old 01-21-2009, 08:34 AM
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I used it along almost the entire front and back, across the timing cover and 1 inch into the flat on either saide, same over the rear main...sealed perfectly
Old 01-21-2009, 08:39 AM
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I installed in on my buddies car w/ no sealant, it doesn't leak. But it won't hurt to add a bead of rtv to the front and back.
Old 01-21-2009, 08:45 AM
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Use grey rtv.

I put a bead across the timing cover, rear main seal adapter and put blobs in the corners. No leaks. Wipe off the excess.
Old 01-21-2009, 08:56 AM
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Blue gasket here as well with grey rtv
Old 01-21-2009, 09:35 AM
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I usually put a dab of Permatex Ultra Black in each corner and that's it. No leaks. I have done like 5-6 motors this way
Old 01-21-2009, 10:24 AM
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I used permatex #2 non hardening sealant on the corners and on the pan side that goes under the timing cover and rear main and have no leaks.
Old 01-21-2009, 10:32 AM
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I use the blue gasket and add grey RTV to the 4 corners that are leak prone. No leaks to date.
Old 01-21-2009, 11:09 AM
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I used the felpro gasket and black silicone on the corners but I have a leak between the timing cover and oil pan. Looks like I will either pull the engine or slap some more sealer on the lip of the pan !
Old 01-21-2009, 11:14 AM
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A little dab will do ya.
Old 01-21-2009, 11:15 AM
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How did you M6 guys remove your oil pan
Old 01-21-2009, 11:55 AM
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I don't think u can remove the oil pan without dropping the k-member. I've tried pulling the pan and it almost cleared the crank but I needed a few more inches.
Old 01-21-2009, 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by I8ASaleen
How did you M6 guys remove your oil pan
You don't have to completely remove your oil pan to replace the gasket. You can drop it as far as it will go and slip the gasket inside and work it up around the edges until it's in position.
Old 01-21-2009, 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by I8ASaleen
How did you M6 guys remove your oil pan
Gotta raise the motor with a jack, disconnect the motor mounts and lower the K-member a bit. The pan will come out. However you dont need to remove it to replace the gasket, you can fish it in there.

Also helps to cut a slit on the inside where the dipstick tube goes
Old 01-21-2009, 12:41 PM
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I personally would remove the pan to clean the pan rails on both the pan and the block. I don't see the point in replacing the gasket without giving it a clean surface to seal against.
Old 01-21-2009, 12:55 PM
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^That's exactly why I'm doing it. I don't see any point in removing the old gasket and having all those chunks fall into the oil pan, not having a clean surface, and letting all kinds of debris stay there.
Old 01-21-2009, 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by I8ASaleen
^That's exactly why I'm doing it. I don't see any point in removing the old gasket and having all those chunks fall into the oil pan, not having a clean surface, and letting all kinds of debris stay there.
Just make sure you remove the oil level sensor before you try to drop the pan.
Old 01-21-2009, 02:54 PM
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Yea I definitely did b/c I knew it was holding it on there. I prolly will have to drop the k-member a bit.



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