gregrob

iTrader: (8)

Working on getting in the ds header right now.
Both stock manifolds and all egr/air garbage is gone and the stock Y pipe with cat is out



Seems I need to "massage" the floorboard with a hammer right by the slave cylinder a little and grind on the k member to let it slip by and up.



That pretty common?


Oh, I also found that 3 of the spark plugs on the ds were loose and the pass side manifold only had 5 bolts in it wtf! lol



Maybe shell run a little better after this, doing my taylor otvc wires and TR6's gapped at .035 for a little you know what down the road.

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

What headers are you installing? Some grinding, bending, massaging, and cursing is normal if you're doing LPPs.

gregrob

iTrader: (8)

The AZSMs in my sig

BizZzatch350

iTrader: (33)

OTVC looks cool, but you can easily route them with out it. It's just the back two on each side you have to get creative with and route them through the motor mounts, follow the oil cooler lines on the d.s and kinda come around on the plug. The p.s side just have to follow the same kind of logic. A lot of issues are caused by worn motor mounts.

gregrob

iTrader: (8)

Well I've tried grinding the k member and massaging the floorboard. Also have the oil filter off on that side and it's just not happening.

Looks like I might be able to do that side from the top if I disconnect the steering shaft. Any ideas?

Lt14mla

iTrader: (2)

oh yea we had to do some serious floorboard flattening to get mine in. pretty common on lt1's from what i recall

crzytown69

iTrader: (17)

man that sucks you gotta grind and BFH it good luck and it will be worth it in the long run

gregrob

iTrader: (8)

Thanks guys. Anyone put the driver's side in from the top? I think I'm gonna try it.

Badazz 97 TA

iTrader: (18)

you need to remove the steering shaft regardless of which way you put them in. Thats your problem. remove the shaft and it will go in no problem. also dont break the coolant sensor by the #1 spark plug

gregrob

iTrader: (8)

Well I already broke the sensor lol.

Problem is, I did remove the steering shaft and it still will NOT go in. No matter how I try it from the top or the bottom it refuses.

Denied.... LOL

I'm ready to set it on fire. Someone tell me what I'm doing wrong. Do I have to take the motor mount loose on that side and jack up the engine?

gregrob

iTrader: (8)

Does anyone have pics of notching the K member?

I can't believe I'm having this much trouble when people with long tubes have them that slide right in. WTF

gregrob

iTrader: (8)

Also looks like I could remove the first primary on the ds if I finished the cut the bandsaw made. It's almost all the way through and that would let my #1 primary come apart like hooker headers do.

Should I try it that way?

smb72

I never had to do any of the sort to install my long tubes. Never removed the steering shaft out or cut up the k-member. Remove all spark plugs and pull out the long bolt for the motor mount. Use a floor jack with a piece of wood and jack up oil pan or bell housing. Jack slowly and check everything till its up as far as it will go. After some scratches in the header it'll be in. Grab a buddy to hold the header and lower the jack, install bolts and your done. Do the same on the other side. Also. put the car up on jack stands so its up as high as it can go, makes the job easier.

gregrob

iTrader: (8)

The car is high enough, the header can stand straight up and down.

It's a mid tube so not super tall.

I guess that is my next thing to try, undo the motor mount

caldercay

Maybe "common" for midtubes on an LT1 ... the Kooks went it with almost
zero effort. I did have to jack up the engine on both sides, but I replaced
the motor mounts at the same time anyway, so that's a moot point.

gregrob

iTrader: (8)

Where is the best place to jack to lift the engine on one side? I have the nut off the motor mount bolt and want to lift the engine and push the bolt out.

When I jack on the bellhousing it just lifts the car straight up, doesn't twist the engine.

Under oil pan with a piece of wood? I'm afraid of bending it though.

smb72

I have done mine both ways. Oil pan first and then after I rebuilt my engine, I used the bell housing. I did find some dents in my oil pan when the engine was out, not sure how they came about thats why I used the bh the last time. Plus I didn't want to mess up a freshly painted oil pan.

gregrob

iTrader: (8)

Has anyone unbolted the K member and let it down on the drivers side?

I swear that looks like what needs to happen. Guess I'll try jacking the engine and getting the motor mount bolt out first.

Should I remove any of the tranny cross member bolts to let it twist? Or just the motor mount

michaelz28lt1

Just take out the two motor mount bolts, put a jack with a piece of block on the crank pulley and jack up. You might have to jack it up just a touch to take some pressure off the motor mount bolts so you can slide them out. Its very easy to do and they will go right in. When I did my Pacesetter Longtube headers I didn't touch any thing but the motor mount bolts to slide the headers in.

gregrob

iTrader: (8)

Im gonna try taking the first primary tube off and see what happens