Header install is a bitch
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Header install is a bitch Working on getting in the ds header right now.
Both stock manifolds and all egr/air garbage is gone and the stock Y pipe with cat is out
Seems I need to "massage" the floorboard with a hammer right by the slave cylinder a little and grind on the k member to let it slip by and up.
That pretty common?
Oh, I also found that 3 of the spark plugs on the ds were loose and the pass side manifold only had 5 bolts in it wtf! lol
Maybe shell run a little better after this, doing my taylor otvc wires and TR6's gapped at .035 for a little you know what down the road.
Both stock manifolds and all egr/air garbage is gone and the stock Y pipe with cat is out
Seems I need to "massage" the floorboard with a hammer right by the slave cylinder a little and grind on the k member to let it slip by and up.
That pretty common?
Oh, I also found that 3 of the spark plugs on the ds were loose and the pass side manifold only had 5 bolts in it wtf! lol
Maybe shell run a little better after this, doing my taylor otvc wires and TR6's gapped at .035 for a little you know what down the road.
OTVC looks cool, but you can easily route them with out it. It's just the back two on each side you have to get creative with and route them through the motor mounts, follow the oil cooler lines on the d.s and kinda come around on the plug. The p.s side just have to follow the same kind of logic. A lot of issues are caused by worn motor mounts.
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Well I've tried grinding the k member and massaging the floorboard. Also have the oil filter off on that side and it's just not happening.
Looks like I might be able to do that side from the top if I disconnect the steering shaft. Any ideas?
Looks like I might be able to do that side from the top if I disconnect the steering shaft. Any ideas?
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you need to remove the steering shaft regardless of which way you put them in. Thats your problem. remove the shaft and it will go in no problem. also dont break the coolant sensor by the #1 spark plug 
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Well I already broke the sensor lol.
Problem is, I did remove the steering shaft and it still will NOT go in. No matter how I try it from the top or the bottom it refuses.
Denied.... LOL
I'm ready to set it on fire. Someone tell me what I'm doing wrong. Do I have to take the motor mount loose on that side and jack up the engine?
Problem is, I did remove the steering shaft and it still will NOT go in. No matter how I try it from the top or the bottom it refuses.
Denied.... LOL
I'm ready to set it on fire. Someone tell me what I'm doing wrong. Do I have to take the motor mount loose on that side and jack up the engine?
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Also looks like I could remove the first primary on the ds if I finished the cut the bandsaw made. It's almost all the way through and that would let my #1 primary come apart like hooker headers do.
Should I try it that way?
Should I try it that way?
Staging Lane
Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Bethlehem, PA
I never had to do any of the sort to install my long tubes. Never removed the steering shaft out or cut up the k-member. Remove all spark plugs and pull out the long bolt for the motor mount. Use a floor jack with a piece of wood and jack up oil pan or bell housing. Jack slowly and check everything till its up as far as it will go. After some scratches in the header it'll be in. Grab a buddy to hold the header and lower the jack, install bolts and your done. Do the same on the other side. Also. put the car up on jack stands so its up as high as it can go, makes the job easier.
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The car is high enough, the header can stand straight up and down.
It's a mid tube so not super tall.
I guess that is my next thing to try, undo the motor mount
It's a mid tube so not super tall.
I guess that is my next thing to try, undo the motor mount
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zero effort. I did have to jack up the engine on both sides, but I replaced
the motor mounts at the same time anyway, so that's a moot point.
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Where is the best place to jack to lift the engine on one side? I have the nut off the motor mount bolt and want to lift the engine and push the bolt out.
When I jack on the bellhousing it just lifts the car straight up, doesn't twist the engine.
Under oil pan with a piece of wood? I'm afraid of bending it though.
When I jack on the bellhousing it just lifts the car straight up, doesn't twist the engine.
Under oil pan with a piece of wood? I'm afraid of bending it though.
Staging Lane
Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Bethlehem, PA
I have done mine both ways. Oil pan first and then after I rebuilt my engine, I used the bell housing. I did find some dents in my oil pan when the engine was out, not sure how they came about thats why I used the bh the last time. Plus I didn't want to mess up a freshly painted oil pan.
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Has anyone unbolted the K member and let it down on the drivers side?
I swear that looks like what needs to happen. Guess I'll try jacking the engine and getting the motor mount bolt out first.
Should I remove any of the tranny cross member bolts to let it twist? Or just the motor mount
I swear that looks like what needs to happen. Guess I'll try jacking the engine and getting the motor mount bolt out first.
Should I remove any of the tranny cross member bolts to let it twist? Or just the motor mount
Teching In
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: St. Louis
Just take out the two motor mount bolts, put a jack with a piece of block on the crank pulley and jack up. You might have to jack it up just a touch to take some pressure off the motor mount bolts so you can slide them out. Its very easy to do and they will go right in. When I did my Pacesetter Longtube headers I didn't touch any thing but the motor mount bolts to slide the headers in.