th350 trans
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All you would really need is a different length driveshaft (unless you get a TH350 with a 9" tailshaft). You can re-use the stock flexplate if you get a converter made for the LT1 bolt circle pattern
Oh, you would also need a TH350 crossmember from BMR, UMI, etc. Or you can modify your stock crossmember by moving it so it lines up with the tranny, and you'll need a chassis mounted torque arm (since the TH350 has no provisions for the stock tranny mounted torque arm)
Oh, you would also need a TH350 crossmember from BMR, UMI, etc. Or you can modify your stock crossmember by moving it so it lines up with the tranny, and you'll need a chassis mounted torque arm (since the TH350 has no provisions for the stock tranny mounted torque arm)
Last edited by 1badzee; 07-16-2009 at 09:55 PM.
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They're a bit different. The LT1 has a small circle base bolt pattern, and the GEN I have a large base. All I know is that it won't work. Also, the LT1 flexplate has a 153 teeth, while the GEN I SBC/BBC has 168
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On my swap, here is what I used:
Also a note, cut the ears off of the TH350. Makes it much easier when installing (do a search on how this is done). All in all, it was about a $1200 job and alot of work but worth it (bought most stuff second hand). Havent had a trans problem since and Im making some decent power + jug.
Dont forget a good trans cooler!!
- Th350 with a 9in tailshaft
- Chassis mount TQ Arm
- Stock driveshaft (had the yoke shortened by 1in for better fit)
- TH350 crossmember (umi, bmr, etc carry this; I run the UMI version)
- Used the TCI Flexplate I was using with the 60e
- I think I had to have my convertor resplined to fit the TH350, cant remember (did this over 2 years ago) Double check the input shaft spline numbers.
- B&M Ratchet shifter with cable kit
Also a note, cut the ears off of the TH350. Makes it much easier when installing (do a search on how this is done). All in all, it was about a $1200 job and alot of work but worth it (bought most stuff second hand). Havent had a trans problem since and Im making some decent power + jug.
Dont forget a good trans cooler!!
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On my swap, here is what I used:
Also a note, cut the ears off of the TH350. Makes it much easier when installing (do a search on how this is done). All in all, it was about a $1200 job and alot of work but worth it (bought most stuff second hand). Havent had a trans problem since and Im making some decent power + jug.
Dont forget a good trans cooler!!
- Th350 with a 9in tailshaft
- Chassis mount TQ Arm
- Stock driveshaft (had the yoke shortened by 1in for better fit)
- TH350 crossmember (umi, bmr, etc carry this; I run the UMI version)
- Used the TCI Flexplate I was using with the 60e
- I think I had to have my convertor resplined to fit the TH350, cant remember (did this over 2 years ago) Double check the input shaft spline numbers.
- B&M Ratchet shifter with cable kit
Also a note, cut the ears off of the TH350. Makes it much easier when installing (do a search on how this is done). All in all, it was about a $1200 job and alot of work but worth it (bought most stuff second hand). Havent had a trans problem since and Im making some decent power + jug.
Dont forget a good trans cooler!!
- TH350 with 6in tailshaft
- Custom length driveshaft
- BMR crossmember
- Jegster double adjustable torque arm
- B&M pro ratchet shifter + cable
- Had TSI (transmission specialties) build me a nitrous converter for a TH350 but to bolt up to a stock LT1 flexplate (153 teeth)
- B&M big trans cooler
As for the ears, I didn't cut them off. I don't think it's worth it because the transmission went in as quick as a stocker. But if you're feeling creative, go for it!
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Good info. My setup is similar:
As for the ears, I didn't cut them off. I don't think it's worth it because the transmission went in as quick as a stocker. But if you're feeling creative, go for it!
- TH350 with 6in tailshaft
- Custom length driveshaft
- BMR crossmember
- Jegster double adjustable torque arm
- B&M pro ratchet shifter + cable
- Had TSI (transmission specialties) build me a nitrous converter for a TH350 but to bolt up to a stock LT1 flexplate (153 teeth)
- B&M big trans cooler
As for the ears, I didn't cut them off. I don't think it's worth it because the transmission went in as quick as a stocker. But if you're feeling creative, go for it!
Mine isnt manual but I can shift 1-2-3 and also just leave it in drive.
Also another note, I paid $600 for mine on a performance build from a local builder. Can find them alot cheaper but with a good performance build you'll likley never have to replace it.
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Nice...did you put a manual valve body in yours? I love driving with a 3speed and convertor...feels like its always in the powerband (properly setup, it should).
Mine isnt manual but I can shift 1-2-3 and also just leave it in drive.
Also another note, I paid $600 for mine on a performance build from a local builder. Can find them alot cheaper but with a good performance build you'll likley never have to replace it.
Mine isnt manual but I can shift 1-2-3 and also just leave it in drive.
Also another note, I paid $600 for mine on a performance build from a local builder. Can find them alot cheaper but with a good performance build you'll likley never have to replace it.
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most converters have dual bolt pattern. Just tell whoever builds your converter that you have small pattern, no big deal.
doesent fitzall or something make a kit?
I have a 350, and I would never want a t-brake on one.....a good converterwill leave harder anyway.
doesent fitzall or something make a kit?
I have a 350, and I would never want a t-brake on one.....a good converterwill leave harder anyway.