Marc3.4V6

iTrader: (1)

Heads are off and I am still having trouble swapping the springs. I thought it would be an easy swap but I guess not. All the instructions I have seen are for on the car, am I supposed to do anything special or different because the heads are off the car? I have a cheap $30 tool and it just isn't working....do I need to tap the top so the retainers go down? Everything is new and the heads were just tested so I could have had them changed by professionals but I was sick and couldn't get the springs to them in time....doh!

Btw they are lt4 springs, I planned on using just them and keeping everything else stock with prw 1.6 roller tip rockers. I calculated my lift with my cam will be just under .500 in intake and exhaust..........maybe I don't need to change springs, what is the max lift for lt1 springs?

am_muscl

iTrader: (19)

https://ls1tech.com/forums/tools-fab...available.html get the tool from this guy and it is so stupid simple to replace the springs...I have absolutely no mechanical experience and I was able to change mine out when me and a buddy did my cam swap.

myltwon

iTrader: (1)

LT1 springs won't support anything more than stock basically, a LT4 spring is good for .525" lift with "sodium filled valves"

you will need to "shock" (i.e. hit it) the retainer so the locks will come loose

Marc3.4V6

iTrader: (1)

ok, thanks....the valves won't fall out will they?

tspence45

iTrader: (30)

Thanks for that link. I just ordered one. Putting my 1.7RR's and valve springs in should be a breeze now.

Marc3.4V6

iTrader: (1)

the things inside the stock springs, look like another spring inside of the spring.....do I need new ones for the lt4 springs? Do I need them at all? They seem too small like they would just rattle around in the bigger lt4 spring.

myltwon

iTrader: (1)

I thought the heads were off?

myltwon

iTrader: (1)

is the inner "spring" flat or round?

I haven't looked at stock springs in a while but I don't remember an inner spring or dampener on them

robsquikz28

iTrader: (246)

stock springs are just crappy springs with no inner spirngs....what are you looking at??
are the heads off or not??
even if they are off the valves may fall out a bit but you can use ur hand to push it back in and put the valves back on

Marc3.4V6

iTrader: (1)

Well they should be stock springs, they have a flat inner dampener. I figured it all out, got 2 on there with the stock retainers, but there is another problem....I wanted to see how the new rockers would sit on there and it looks like the roller doesn't contact the valve. Like the edges that come down would just hit the top retainer and just wear like crazy. Am I supposed to use some sort of special retainer/washer?

Marc3.4V6

iTrader: (1)

here's the ones I bought:

http://www.prwonlinestore.com/sports...ckerarms9.aspx

Marc3.4V6

iTrader: (1)

heres an ok picture of what I'm talking about.



I got all the springs swapped and on the car, I've decided to try and sell these to someone with an engine they actually work on and getting Comp Magnum roller tips. I was going to get those to begin with but another member told me about these and they are $80 cheaper. Lesson learned.

JAKEJR

I've read other posts recently about self-aligning rockers riding on the retainers. That and the other posts of recent failures with self-aligning rockers - even those that cleared the retainers - would make be recommend you go with NON-SELF aligning rockers, guide plates and hardened pushrods.

Seems to be a recent rash of failures posted on other Forums I visit involving self-aligning rockers. Those posts and pics and my previous experience are the reasons I went with Non-Self aligning rockers when I did the head swap on my son's 96 LT1 a few weeks ago.

Just my thoughts.

Jake

West Point ROCKS!

JAKEJR

With the heads on the work bench, fold and place something like a shot towel in the combustion chamber(s) your working with. The towel will prevent the valves from being forced open as you remove the springs.

Install the spring compressor and apply a little pressure to make the spring compress a little. Then WHACK the retainer with a rubber mallet. That'll loosen to locks. Compress the spring more then pick out the locks with a little magnet.

When the new springs are installed WHACK the retainers again to insure the locks take a seat.

Jake

West Point ROCKS!

My95Z

iTrader: (8)

Just saw this thread and think I found out whats wrong, its not the rockers at all. I assure you they WILL work with LT1/4 retainers, the problem is that those aren't LT1 retainers on the engine now.

The 2nd spring you were talking about inside the "stocker" is because its a dual valve spring setup and those aren't your stock springs they're aftermarket ones. Your putting an aftermarket retainer on something meant for a stock retainer and that is where the clearance problem is.

Marc3.4V6

iTrader: (1)

Thanks my95z....I just ordered 16 retainers from the dealer.

But now I am having some major confusion about the head bolts. The bolts I took off the car had washers even though the stock bolts I ordered new from rockauto.com came without washers. So I said, ok, whatever I'll just re-use them. But I lost some so in the process of trying to find new washers, the dealership told me that they don't sell just the washers, so I try to buy the head bolts for one side for the washers, and they say, "oh, hold on a sec, they actually changed these bolts over to washer-less, so they no longer come with washers. But I've read here and cz28 that they are needed. But if they are washerless and I put washers on them, that will have affected the torque. Speaking of, I need to take the head that I already torqued down off anyhow to change the spring retainers, is my gasket ok since it's been torqued, or should I buy another new one?

Can anyone else confirm that these are non-stock retainers?:

My95Z

iTrader: (8)

I would say the gasket will be fine, its never even been started up so I wouldn't worry about it and just reuse it.

For the head bolts, I'm not sure. If in their instructions they say not to use washers I'd say follow the instructions. Could be wrong though maybe someone else will chime in.

Marc3.4V6

iTrader: (1)

not sure if this helps any, but I looked up the paperwork on my rebuild and I found out which springs and more importantly the retainers that I used with the lt4 springs, they're crane.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Crane/270/11309-1/10002/-1

I'm assuming the got the whole kit, now can I re-use the valve locks in the lt4 springs? I'll definitely have t figure out a different retainer though, not sure how much more clearance I can get with stock, because from the looks of it I'd need a lot.

God dammit, I just checked crane's site, well the pdf instruction manual they still ahev up anyways, and it would seem the springs I took out have moire max lift at .600, better than the lt4 springs....I didn't even have to change them or buy the springs, but I still have this rocker arm issue. I'm thinking about just abandoning the rockers now and putting the stockers on.