Lt1 swap for 94 V6 Camaro?
08-03-2009, 03:44 PM
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Lt1 swap for 94 V6 Camaro? Anybody have an LT1 or LT1/4L60E combo they are wanting to sell?
My buddy has a 94 V6 Camaro A4 and is wanting to do an LT1 swap
Any info on where I can find a budget one or used one would be appreciated
My buddy has a 94 V6 Camaro A4 and is wanting to do an LT1 swap
Any info on where I can find a budget one or used one would be appreciated
08-03-2009, 11:03 PM
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08-04-2009, 01:58 PM
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I don't remember where, but I am sure that I have seen some LT1 Engines for under $900. Why not just go with an LT4? I say if you are building something from the ground up, do it right and do it once. I know it is a lot of money and work, but if you can swing the money and effort, I would build a 500+ car from the get go. That is me though. I am also the guy that harbors dreams of putting a blown LS9 into a gutted IROC body...
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08-04-2009, 02:05 PM
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I don't remember where, but I am sure that I have seen some LT1 Engines for under $900. Why not just go with an LT4? I say if you are building something from the ground up, do it right and do it once. I know it is a lot of money and work, but if you can swing the money and effort, I would build a 500+ car from the get go. That is me though. I am also the guy that harbors dreams of putting a blown LS9 into a gutted IROC body...
Might as well go with a LS1 swap, that's what I would do.
08-04-2009, 03:00 PM
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Lol, if it were me, I'd build it up to hold alot of power, but I believe he is on a tighter budget and would be happy with just a nice LT1 with full bolt-on's, gears, stall. To each their own.
I've done nearly the same with mine and am still not satisfied and need more power. The nice thing with the LT1 is that there is always room to grow. If full bolt-on's doesn't meet his specifications, he could always get a heads/cam combo
So we'll stick with plain jane LT1, a decent upgrade powerwise for somebody who is in a V6 Camaro.
I myself think that buying a V6 Camaro/Mustang/Challenger, etc. makes jesus weep; but if guys have the money the built v6's with a turbo on there can make some crazy good power
I've done nearly the same with mine and am still not satisfied and need more power. The nice thing with the LT1 is that there is always room to grow. If full bolt-on's doesn't meet his specifications, he could always get a heads/cam combo
So we'll stick with plain jane LT1, a decent upgrade powerwise for somebody who is in a V6 Camaro.
I myself think that buying a V6 Camaro/Mustang/Challenger, etc. makes jesus weep; but if guys have the money the built v6's with a turbo on there can make some crazy good power
08-04-2009, 09:50 PM
#10
its not worth it sell the v6 can buy a LT1 trust me I owned your same vehicle, engine swaps are never as easy as just bolting it in, inherent wiring problems, need to swap rears, swapping clusters, that and your resale value is next to nothing with a swapped v6 car. either turbo the 60 degree and tune it with megasquirt or sell the v6 and buy an LT1 car which can be had fo 2500 bucks at this point
08-05-2009, 02:30 PM
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find a wrecked LT1 car. trust me please listen ive dealt with this before. its better to find a car that runs and can drive so you know everything is good then do a swap so you have everything but maybe the body is trashed or something like that. AGAIN BELIEVE ME ITS WELL WORTH THE EXTRA MONEY TO JUST COMPLETELY BUY A WHOLE CAR........
08-05-2009, 02:56 PM
#13
If you're willing to spend the money doing the swap, GO FOR IT. Coming from someone who did a 94 3.4L v6 to a 95 LT1 - it's going to cost you a chunk of change but with the way the economy is today you can probably score all the parts you need for fairly cheap.
I bought the LT1 engine and 4L60e, PCM, engine wiring harness, engine bay harness, interior wiring harness, both driver's side and passenger's side door, all four rims and tires, the entire rear hatch assembly with glass, rear bumper, and rear tail panel for $1000. I sold the rims and tires for $100 - passed on my good deal to someone else. I sold my 3.4L v6 in running condition to someone for $300 and sold the v6 4L60e again in perfectly running condition for $300 also. Sold the rear tailpanel for $50, driver's door for $25, and rear bumper for $25. Do the math - I had almost everything I needed to do the swap and it only cost me $200.
I still had to buy the kframe and LT1 radiator / dual fans (I paid $150 package price for both), got the v8 heater hoses from a buddy who was doing a full drag car and got rid of his heater core, bought a new throttle cable from the dealership for about $30 I think, removed my cruise control module because the cable was different and I didn't need cruise. Contrary to above, you don't HAVE to change your rear end. The only difference between a v8 and v6 rear end is the drums/discs. Whether you need a new gauge cluster or not - I'm not sure in all honesty. I had done a 97+ dash swap years prior and I had a 97+ v6 gauge cluster - the 97+ v6 gauge cluster worked perfectly on speed and RPMs... no calibration necessary.
Are you going to spend money? Sure. Either way you're going to spend money and not come out ahead. IMHO, the learning experience is so much more worth it. I started out not knowing jack **** about engines and now I feel like I know quite a fair amount. To me, the learning experience of the engine swap makes it worth it.
I bought the LT1 engine and 4L60e, PCM, engine wiring harness, engine bay harness, interior wiring harness, both driver's side and passenger's side door, all four rims and tires, the entire rear hatch assembly with glass, rear bumper, and rear tail panel for $1000. I sold the rims and tires for $100 - passed on my good deal to someone else. I sold my 3.4L v6 in running condition to someone for $300 and sold the v6 4L60e again in perfectly running condition for $300 also. Sold the rear tailpanel for $50, driver's door for $25, and rear bumper for $25. Do the math - I had almost everything I needed to do the swap and it only cost me $200.
I still had to buy the kframe and LT1 radiator / dual fans (I paid $150 package price for both), got the v8 heater hoses from a buddy who was doing a full drag car and got rid of his heater core, bought a new throttle cable from the dealership for about $30 I think, removed my cruise control module because the cable was different and I didn't need cruise. Contrary to above, you don't HAVE to change your rear end. The only difference between a v8 and v6 rear end is the drums/discs. Whether you need a new gauge cluster or not - I'm not sure in all honesty. I had done a 97+ dash swap years prior and I had a 97+ v6 gauge cluster - the 97+ v6 gauge cluster worked perfectly on speed and RPMs... no calibration necessary.
Are you going to spend money? Sure. Either way you're going to spend money and not come out ahead. IMHO, the learning experience is so much more worth it. I started out not knowing jack **** about engines and now I feel like I know quite a fair amount. To me, the learning experience of the engine swap makes it worth it.
08-05-2009, 08:42 PM
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on the rear thing. the V6 rear is an open diff but the V8 rear is a LSD and the whole drum disc thingy. the speedos are different the V6 stops at 120 and the V8 stops at 150. but please heed my warning in buying a full car it will make things a million times easier but thats my opinion after dooing my swap
08-06-2009, 07:59 AM
#16
on the rear thing. the V6 rear is an open diff but the V8 rear is a LSD and the whole drum disc thingy. the speedos are different the V6 stops at 120 and the V8 stops at 150. but please heed my warning in buying a full car it will make things a million times easier but thats my opinion after dooing my swap
08-06-2009, 03:11 PM
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/\ true. but i could be wrong. but isnt the speedo gear in the tranny? i know in my old th350 and th400 it was a lil plastic gear inside the tranny on the driver side. i replaced it many times cause my dumbass was putting it in wrong the first 3-4 times untill i broke down and asked my dad what i was doing wrong lol. but you can leave the V6 rear in the car thats what i had in mine when i went 13.1 at 109. with shitty drum brakes.
10-06-2011, 07:18 PM
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what info would you guys have for me my donor car is a 97z28 and I just bought a clean 94 v6 with manual door locks and windows..and I wanna swap the lt1 minus the dash and power window accessories?
Reason for swap is my 97 is plain trash body wise. With a mean salvage title rebuild.
OP sorry for the thread jacking.
Reason for swap is my 97 is plain trash body wise. With a mean salvage title rebuild.
OP sorry for the thread jacking.
10-06-2011, 07:37 PM
#20
OP I have a LT1 v8 k fram with the upper and lower a-arms for $250 + shipping, A 94 Z28 gauge cluster for $100, 94 Z28 pcm $100 shipped, Flowmaster cat bact with stock Z28 tips for $140 + shipping, I also have stock Z28 springs front & rear $100 + shipping. Email me at z24.turbo@gmail.com if you're interested.