Dadic 78

Looking for suggestions on how to build up my LT1. Aiming for 500 HP, without forced induction. This car will be see very little track time, and will be mainly used on the street, and at shows.

I'm thinking 383 stroker kit along with some ported heads/intake with a nice cam can get me there, but I'm honestly not the most knowledgeable about which combo of cam/intake/heads/etc. will get me there. Any input you guys may have would be great.

This build will be from an existing LT1, so a new block is not necessary. Again, no forced induction, and a I'm leaning towards making more low-RPM power as opposed to a high-revving motor.

cheers!

86formula

iTrader: (3)

for your 94? is it staying M6? keeping a 10 bolt rear? a 383 with AIs 200cc package should get you there if both answers are yes

daves94formula

iTrader: (3)

are you talking flywheel or rear wheel?

bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

Headers, 150 shot and a tune will get you there if fwhp.

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

What is your budget? Do you want 500 FWHP or RWHP (big difference)?

fex77k

iTrader: (2)

How much are you looking to spend?

I8ASaleen

iTrader: (9)

383, large (good flowing) heads, single plane, and a large cam.

MasterTomos

iTrader: (15)

you can achieve 500 HP at the crank with just doing a good top end (heads, cam, intake)...with a stroker motor, it just makes it easier (allows you to go to higher RPM's and get even more out of the top end)

either way...

500 Flywheel HP=a WELL THOUGHT OUT AND RESEARCHED heads, cam, intake

500 Wheel HP= the above, plus a stroker bottom end (probably forged) so you can spin it up in the 7,000 range for rpm's...

it's even easier if you count Nitrous as a N/A motor...

gregrob

iTrader: (8)

You realize more cubes lets you turn LESS rpm and make the same power, right?

Dadic 78

500 Hp at the rear wheels is what I'm aiming for.

I plan on keeping the M6 and stock rear end (for now). As far as budget goes, I'm not sure what I'll be spending, just because I haven't priced out this build yet, but I'd imagine it would be in the $5K range, and that's no problem.

gregrob

iTrader: (8)

LOL, better dream on for 5K....

that MIGHT cover the top end and machine work...

biggstkk

I haven't put the numbers to paper, but I really don't think that $5k is unreasonable depending on how much work you do yourself.

Z28Roxy

iTrader: (4)

For a standard HR build AT LEAST:

???

$2k - bottom end
$2k - heads
$1k - valvetrain
$1k - machine work / gaskets / hardware / misc

$6k already.

Not including dyno tune, clutch, rear end, suspension/tires.

That won't get him to 500hp though, unless he meant flywheel.

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

WOW I want the number of YOUR machine shop.

A forged rotating assembly is 1500-1800 bux on a good day. My Gaskets were $200+

Figure $9000 for a DECENT, scrape by, finding killer deals on used stuff build.

Z28Roxy

iTrader: (4)

383 + 4 bolt main setup, caps andARP hardware included.

For a forged 383? With non Chi-com parts?

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

4340 crank and rods, forged pistons.

Forged crank is around $700

Forged rods around $400

Forged pistons around $600

These prices are for Eagle/Scat/Probe type stuff, Never mind the high end stuff.

Z28Roxy

iTrader: (4)

Bearings? Pre-balanced?

I paid $2300 for my "high end" lunati/wiseco setup, but it came pre-balanced and with king alecular bearings.

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

So my numbers are right?

I dont see how anyone can build a "quality, nice" forged shortblock for less than $3500-4000 when its all said and done.

And I ALWAYS balance at MY machine shop, I never, ever trust a "pre-balanced" setup.

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

Agreed. My short block alone ended up being $3900, using GOOD parts and a GOOD machinist.

Z28Roxy

iTrader: (4)

That's actually what I was getting at. I was showing that even a ridiculous low ball was $6k where some others said $5k was within reason.