85taracer

iTrader: (3)

Hey guys. I am about to build my first LT1. It is going in my 85 TA. I will be using the T-56 also. I have rebuilt a 68 327 and an 80's 350, both were carbed. This will also be my first injected engine.

The engine is tore down (had approx. 80k on the clock) and looks clean. I have bought very few parts on purpose, because I don't have enough LT1 specific knowledge yet. (This is where I defer to you guys) To throw another nut in the intake, I plan to install nitrous after the engine is broken in.

So, here are my goals and ideas, and I look to the experienced guys on here for some help in chosing the correct parts to install to achieve the horsepower and reliability I want:

Street car, will see track time, mostly 1/8 mile.

Would like to get around 400+ HP at the wheels from the engine.

Would like to use direct port nitrous, starting with a smaller 125-150 shot to learn tuning techniques, with the goal to eventually run a 200 to 250 shot, depending on the additional strength (engine or otherwise) required to hold up to 250 shot.

With these goals, I have a few questions:

1.) Can direct port be used with the stock intake? (ported)

2.) What aftermarket heads will work good with nitrous, give me the flow to produce the HP needed, and still be streetable? I am thinking about a set of AFr's, but don't know which.

3.) Cam choice. Nitrous specific or just spec'd to give me the HP

4.) rotating assembly - need help! crank rods pistons and rings!

Lets start with that for now. I know its a lot of info, but anything you guys can give and any time you can spend typing is extremely appreciated!!!

Thanks,

Tim

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

1.) Yes, but it will be costly. Nitrous Outlet can do the conversion for you.

2.) For 400whp, there is no need to go to an aftermarket castings when a set of AI (or LE) ported stock castings will work fine. I put down the numbers in my sig on AI ported 200cc stockers.

3.) The two companies I mentioned earlier can spec you a grind tailored to your needs (with nitrous considered).

4.) If budget is a concern, a stock crank with an aftermarket forged I or H beam and a forged piston will suffice. Since you plan on spraying regularly, I would use a stock-length 5.7" forged rod. There's no reason that couldn't hold up to a 250+ shot if done right.

85taracer

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the tips Joe. What companies do you guys recommend for forged pistons and rings that can handle nitrous?

85taracer

iTrader: (3)

One more thing, Can I use a 58mm throttlebody or is it too big?

joelster

Yes, but it is not a restriction at the power level you will be at.

I've raced with you a few times at Dunn Tire!

slomarao

iTrader: (6)

Lots of different pistons will handle a 250 shot. JE, Diamond, Ross, **** my speedpro's could handle it with solid tune. The rings, ring & gap will also play a part but you dont want to go too loose.

talk to the companies about something custom or a off the shelf n2o slug

85taracer

iTrader: (3)

Joel, Yes I remember you. I recently rejoined the wnyfbody board... have you been on there at all?

Guys,

Thanks for the help so far.

More on pistons: I think I will be running LE2 heads (working on a deal right now) What should I run for a piston to still run on pump gas daily, be good for nitrous (compression) yet still yield the power I want? just flat tops? thinking of wiseco forged pistons, yay or nay?

slomarao

iTrader: (6)

how much will the heads be milled? What head gasket? how far will the piston be in the hole? there are many variables.


I would get a off the shelf diamond N20 piston, but thats just me

brucer

in your original post you state to different power levels... 400rwhp then you jump to a gradually move up to 250 shot... to me that would change your needs to a fully forged bottom end, using good parts.. its 650hp to the rear wheels..

i have always liked lunati cranks, oliver rods, and ross pistons.. i would also splay the mains..

you could possibly get away with a good stock crank if you trust your engine shop to balance it damn good, and also to make sure its a good casting..

if you use the stock crank i think you would be on borrowed time with the 250shot.. i myself wouldnt even think of going over 150 shot on a stock crank. i'm sure a 250 shot can be done and i'm sure somone does it and is currently doing it but i bet the majority that have done it didnt have the best results..

anyways,
that leads me too..
if i was building an engine to put in an lt1 fbody chassis or an 85ta, i would drop the lt1 engine completely and use a splayed main gen1 roller block with afr210's and convert to the 01-02 express van pcm (aka 12200411 pcm).. then you kill 2 birds with one stone, you get away from the plastic oilpump drive and you also do away with the optispark... at that point you have a solid engine that would swap into nearly anything rather easy.. this would be if i were planning on building a pro-street car, or a serious hotrod..

i have yet found any advantage to an lt1 engine compared to a gen1 roller block engine with aluminum heads... as far as the blocks go, i think the gen1 roller block is a better piece, i think it oils better. i just see and hear alot of spun main bearings in the lt1 blocks. myself dont think its the factory bearings but actually the blocks themselves arent the greatest. i think deflection/distortion wipes out the bearings not the bearings themself, just my opinion..

i'm not really convinced of the LT1 engine, i like it, its fun to play with, cheap to learn with if you dont go overboard with it. it seems more and more people move away from it with its often problematic cooling in the 94/97 f-body chassis and the often optispark problems i could see why.. i think the reverse flow cooling is crap and not too beneficial myself..

if i didnt use the gen1 roller block i would move to an ls engine..

just my 2cents.

85taracer

iTrader: (3)

So no one else needs to spend the time typing up the pros and cons of using a stock crank, I am planning to buy a forged piece. Also going to be buying rods and dished pistons for the heads and cam I have purchased. That leads me to an update:

Purchased a newly finished set of heads from Lloyd and a cam to match. They are the ones he recently was advertising on this site.