Spoke with Lloyd Elliot today!! New plans
#1
Spoke with Lloyd Elliot today!! New plans
So after all the hard work we put into my car at the LTXShootout I ended up blowing a head gasket.
Instead of trying to get that all taken care of, I've decided that I want to go with a forged 355 solid roller nitrous set up. I already have the heads set up for the solid roller, they were originally going on a 410 LT1 and were set to make 530 rwhp N/A.
I have some questions because I'm a newb to just about everything and everything I know I've pretty much learned through this site.
What kind of bottom end would you recommend going with for a solid roller setup? Keep in mind I'm trying to get this all done on a budget which will mostly like triple after all is said and done (I've learned that the hard way) but I want something that will last as well. If anyone in the Chicagoland area knows of a reliable and very reasonably price shop please let me know.
I talked with Lloyd Elliot and he spec'd me a cam that will be ridiculous because I plan on making it barely street friendly and more for the track.
I alsp plan on going with a Nitrous Outlet Plate Kit because those guys are f*ckin awesome and it is a great proven product.
And I know some will ask so, my power goals are around 600 or so rwhp and I'm looking to break into the 9's (I wanna be able to race Larry @ SpeedInc and not get my *** handed to me) Sorry Larry you are my target, I just hope I can get to your caliber.
In order to fund this project I am trying to sell pretty much all my hydraulic roller set up, from the cam to the lifters and the stock cleaned and freshly valve job'd heads. So please if you need something check out my for sale thread. https://ls1tech.com/forums/parts-cla...l#post13900747
I will also try to document the whole break down process once I get started which will hopefully be by the end of next month, if everything goes well.
Instead of trying to get that all taken care of, I've decided that I want to go with a forged 355 solid roller nitrous set up. I already have the heads set up for the solid roller, they were originally going on a 410 LT1 and were set to make 530 rwhp N/A.
I have some questions because I'm a newb to just about everything and everything I know I've pretty much learned through this site.
What kind of bottom end would you recommend going with for a solid roller setup? Keep in mind I'm trying to get this all done on a budget which will mostly like triple after all is said and done (I've learned that the hard way) but I want something that will last as well. If anyone in the Chicagoland area knows of a reliable and very reasonably price shop please let me know.
I talked with Lloyd Elliot and he spec'd me a cam that will be ridiculous because I plan on making it barely street friendly and more for the track.
I alsp plan on going with a Nitrous Outlet Plate Kit because those guys are f*ckin awesome and it is a great proven product.
And I know some will ask so, my power goals are around 600 or so rwhp and I'm looking to break into the 9's (I wanna be able to race Larry @ SpeedInc and not get my *** handed to me) Sorry Larry you are my target, I just hope I can get to your caliber.
In order to fund this project I am trying to sell pretty much all my hydraulic roller set up, from the cam to the lifters and the stock cleaned and freshly valve job'd heads. So please if you need something check out my for sale thread. https://ls1tech.com/forums/parts-cla...l#post13900747
I will also try to document the whole break down process once I get started which will hopefully be by the end of next month, if everything goes well.
Last edited by am_muscl; 09-22-2010 at 11:38 PM.
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I'm glad I can be the one you look to for setting your goals, but you are gonna need a lot son to catch my 140mph or maybe higher soon
I think I know a place that can help with the build in the Chicagoland area.
I think I know a place that can help with the build in the Chicagoland area.
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Good to see another younger guy sticking with the LT1. I wish I could say the same
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#10
I thought you guys just mainly focus on the ls1's?? If not I'd be more than happy to trust you my stuff, I mean shoot your car is a perfect example. I plan on doing most of the breakdown myself and putting the motor in myself, but the internals and all that I would need to be handled by the pros.
Not only does Larry have a sexy, fast beast to try and portray, he also is a very friendly guy who will help you with whatever your needs are. All the guys at Speed Inc are awesome! Chicagoland area too!
Good to see another younger guy sticking with the LT1. I wish I could say the same
Good to see another younger guy sticking with the LT1. I wish I could say the same
I feel old already when I see these high school kids building badass cars when I just graduated college and I'm scraping my pennies together to put my ride on the road.
I appreciate it rob! I'm still on the lookout for your brother's car too, I hope that thing gets found. You can bet your *** I'm probably gonna be nagging you this winter, that's when I really plan on tearing into the car and pulling everything out. I'm also gonna try and get the car painted (Mike is probably gonna paint the car in my parent's garage).
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I will always have an appreciation for my LT1 though. Went home this past weekend for the first time in about 2 months and fired the TA up and drove it around and missed driving a car with >140hp unlike my 03 Eclipse daily driver lol
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Sounds like you've got a good plan. Thats alot like my new combo. I'm running a set of CHS heads (290/201 cfm @.650) with a moderate size LE solid roller on a forged 350ci shortblock. No n2o yet, that'll come after I get it running like I want NA.
I had a bit of a setback, which is why my car didn't make the LTxshootout this year, but I should have results from mine soon I hope.
Sounds alot like my shortblock. Only difference being I used Scat rods (I-beam, 7/16 capscrews), and I used a header evac system rather than the vacuum pump. Honestly, if I did it all over again, I'd use the same rods but I'd buy the Mahle powerpack pistons rather than the Probe pistons. The Mahle are coated, and are lighter than the probes. Plus they come with low-tension file-fit metric rings. By the time you buy the Probe pistons and a nice set of rings, you'll have more money in them than the Mahle pistons/rings.
I had a bit of a setback, which is why my car didn't make the LTxshootout this year, but I should have results from mine soon I hope.
Sounds alot like my shortblock. Only difference being I used Scat rods (I-beam, 7/16 capscrews), and I used a header evac system rather than the vacuum pump. Honestly, if I did it all over again, I'd use the same rods but I'd buy the Mahle powerpack pistons rather than the Probe pistons. The Mahle are coated, and are lighter than the probes. Plus they come with low-tension file-fit metric rings. By the time you buy the Probe pistons and a nice set of rings, you'll have more money in them than the Mahle pistons/rings.
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Not only does Larry have a sexy, fast beast to try and portray, he also is a very friendly guy who will help you with whatever your needs are. All the guys at Speed Inc are awesome! Chicagoland area too!
Good to see another younger guy sticking with the LT1. I wish I could say the same
Good to see another younger guy sticking with the LT1. I wish I could say the same
haha oh I know but I look up to your car because it has come so far from what it was and I just enjoy trying to get the car to go faster n faster.
I thought you guys just mainly focus on the ls1's?? If not I'd be more than happy to trust you my stuff, I mean shoot your car is a perfect example. I plan on doing most of the breakdown myself and putting the motor in myself, but the internals and all that I would need to be handled by the pros.
The guys at SpeedInc are badass guys! The day I got my car the first thing I did was go to them and said, "What are the easiest ways to go faster?" They basically took about 45 minutes with me and I learned more in that 45 minutes than I had ever known about before.
I feel old already when I see these high school kids building badass cars when I just graduated college and I'm scraping my pennies together to put my ride on the road.
I thought you guys just mainly focus on the ls1's?? If not I'd be more than happy to trust you my stuff, I mean shoot your car is a perfect example. I plan on doing most of the breakdown myself and putting the motor in myself, but the internals and all that I would need to be handled by the pros.
The guys at SpeedInc are badass guys! The day I got my car the first thing I did was go to them and said, "What are the easiest ways to go faster?" They basically took about 45 minutes with me and I learned more in that 45 minutes than I had ever known about before.
I feel old already when I see these high school kids building badass cars when I just graduated college and I'm scraping my pennies together to put my ride on the road.
We have built numerous LTx cars beyond my own.
a few bad build off the top of my head
Jim's ( our tuner ) TT 96 SS
FASTSS 96 SS
BadHawk 95 Hawk
Snakekilla 95 T/A ..btw is here and gonna be a sick b!tch once done
yes we deal with more Lsx car then LTx, but if someone wants to spend the money I can surely put together a great running LTx car.
when you get your budget in order get in touch and we can work on some things
#16
However, my 8+ year old 355 LTX runs ~130mph @ 3600 lbs so they aren't all bad.
GL with the new build!
#17
ok well I'm looking at summitracing just to try and get an idea of what all these parts are gonna cost new. I'm curious to know, what is the big difference besides cost of the Flat Top pistons vs. the Dish Pistons, and how do you know what compression distance or piston head volume to go with?
And I'm assuming if I go with a 355 would that be a 4.030 bore? Sorry I'm kind of a newb especially with internals. Also whats the difference between Scat and Callies rods and what size would I get? I plan on getting all ARP hardware cuz I have that already with the headers, heads, rocker arm studs, wheel studs, pretty much everything.
And the last ones for today but what is header evac system and with the bearings, because I'm going solid roller would I need any special cam bearings or anything?
And I'm assuming if I go with a 355 would that be a 4.030 bore? Sorry I'm kind of a newb especially with internals. Also whats the difference between Scat and Callies rods and what size would I get? I plan on getting all ARP hardware cuz I have that already with the headers, heads, rocker arm studs, wheel studs, pretty much everything.
And the last ones for today but what is header evac system and with the bearings, because I'm going solid roller would I need any special cam bearings or anything?
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ok well I'm looking at summitracing just to try and get an idea of what all these parts are gonna cost new. I'm curious to know, what is the big difference besides cost of the Flat Top pistons vs. the Dish Pistons, and how do you know what compression distance or piston head volume to go with?
And I'm assuming if I go with a 355 would that be a 4.030 bore? Sorry I'm kind of a newb especially with internals. Also whats the difference between Scat and Callies rods and what size would I get? I plan on getting all ARP hardware cuz I have that already with the headers, heads, rocker arm studs, wheel studs, pretty much everything.
And the last ones for today but what is header evac system and with the bearings, because I'm going solid roller would I need any special cam bearings or anything?
And I'm assuming if I go with a 355 would that be a 4.030 bore? Sorry I'm kind of a newb especially with internals. Also whats the difference between Scat and Callies rods and what size would I get? I plan on getting all ARP hardware cuz I have that already with the headers, heads, rocker arm studs, wheel studs, pretty much everything.
And the last ones for today but what is header evac system and with the bearings, because I'm going solid roller would I need any special cam bearings or anything?
Do you plan on keeping the stock crank, or going with a 3.75 forged or something? If you are looking to be in the 600 HP range, you would probably want to upgrade the crank. .030 on a stock 3.48 stroke gives you a 355... here is a good calculator to figure out CI.
http://www.mindsciencemotorsports.com/graphics/tech.htm
My plans are to go .030 with a 3.8 stroke (GMPP and some others make them, but they are harder to fine).