I'm back! - AI Cam time! - Rod bolts?
10-06-2010, 10:27 PM
#1
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I'm back! - AI Cam time! - Rod bolts? Hello all!
Well, like you all said would happen, I'm back!
Before going home one weekend from college a couple weeks back, I hadn't driven my car my dad bought off of me in 3 months. He bought it off of me in hopes I'd buy it back and because he had fallen in love with it and didn't want to see it go. Despite the squeaks, sub-par build quality, and general frustration it has brought me in the past, I love this damn car and it was my first toy.
So what's the plans for the future?
Well, we've been wanting to get this full-weight untuned cheap bolt-on car into the 12's for awhile. Now that the DA is under the 2700-3000 that it was last time, Daves94formula is taking my car up to Cedar Falls this Saturday to make this a reality while I'm busy at college on Saturday with a bus party
The longer I've been away from this car, the more I have missed it.
For my winter break/spring break project, I plan on doing a cam-only setup.
I am looking at AI's 226/234 .569/.570 110 lsa 2000-6200rpm with all the supporting mods and a PCM4Less tune for now. I might end up taking it to SpeedInc over the summer for a dynotune. We'll see what happens.
Question: Do you think my rod bolts would be fine setting the shift points at 6200rpms for now? The car has about 110k on it. Any dyno estimates?
I know this cam would spin past that, but the goal is a streetable car with power all over with the goal in mind of eventually rebuilding the motor and adding some AI 200cc cnc'd stock castings to the mix. Just want a streetable, fun, budget-minded f-body as my goal of a Corvette after college still stands
Let me know what you guys think!
"It feels so good to be back!"
Well, like you all said would happen, I'm back!
Before going home one weekend from college a couple weeks back, I hadn't driven my car my dad bought off of me in 3 months. He bought it off of me in hopes I'd buy it back and because he had fallen in love with it and didn't want to see it go. Despite the squeaks, sub-par build quality, and general frustration it has brought me in the past, I love this damn car and it was my first toy.
So what's the plans for the future?
Well, we've been wanting to get this full-weight untuned cheap bolt-on car into the 12's for awhile. Now that the DA is under the 2700-3000 that it was last time, Daves94formula is taking my car up to Cedar Falls this Saturday to make this a reality while I'm busy at college on Saturday with a bus party
The longer I've been away from this car, the more I have missed it.
For my winter break/spring break project, I plan on doing a cam-only setup.
I am looking at AI's 226/234 .569/.570 110 lsa 2000-6200rpm with all the supporting mods and a PCM4Less tune for now. I might end up taking it to SpeedInc over the summer for a dynotune. We'll see what happens.
Question: Do you think my rod bolts would be fine setting the shift points at 6200rpms for now? The car has about 110k on it. Any dyno estimates?
I know this cam would spin past that, but the goal is a streetable car with power all over with the goal in mind of eventually rebuilding the motor and adding some AI 200cc cnc'd stock castings to the mix. Just want a streetable, fun, budget-minded f-body as my goal of a Corvette after college still stands
Let me know what you guys think!
"It feels so good to be back!"
10-06-2010, 11:23 PM
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Thanks Gregrob, I know it is kind of a big cam for stock bottom end and unported heads but the goal is to get the cam done winter/spring break and then the ported stockers by the end of summer hopefully
10-07-2010, 01:31 AM
#4
That cam will do fine. Just approach it as a whole setup. Sounds like you have a good plan.
Just remember to use GOOD valvetrain components even if it costs more and take the time to really setup the valvetrain correctly. That's one of the most important parts and unfortunately one of the most neglected.
Just remember to use GOOD valvetrain components even if it costs more and take the time to really setup the valvetrain correctly. That's one of the most important parts and unfortunately one of the most neglected.
10-07-2010, 06:58 AM
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yeah you shouldn't have any trouble shifting at 6200, course upgrading the c/r bolts is always a good idea. I plan on shifting mine at 6200 as well but had the limiter set at 6300 so I won't hit it
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10-07-2010, 08:42 AM
#8
Here is my 226/234 dyno sheet. This is a 5850 RPM rev limiter and while its clear that im not getting the most of my engine its also pretty clear that a 6200 RPM rev limiter wouldnt be leaving much on the table for the added insurance of not breaking anything. I think a stock block can handle 6200 just fine, my engine has been living on the 5850 limiter ever since i did the LS1 lid. Im going to bump my limiter up as soon as i get my tuning laptop up and running again. I might be building a fresh shortblock this winter and if thats the case I'll really test out the limit next season 
10-07-2010, 08:46 AM
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Your engine will be fine spinning to 6,200 without upgraded rod bolts. It's neat to have, but since it's a "street car" and I doubt you'll be doing 6,200 rpm's everywhere everyday, you should be fine without the ARP bolts.
10-07-2010, 08:50 AM
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should be fine, my cam is exactly 10 degrees bigger on both sides with a 112 LSA, but i have a 396, and it peaks at 6250. So i guess in theroy that cam should peak around the same in a 350.
just dont skimp on springs and set a resonable rev-limiter. my car revs up so fast ill hit 7000 RPM constantly during rolling burnouts, until i took it to the dyno and seen major valve float after 6500 and down 90 RWHP at 7000, lol.
just dont skimp on springs and set a resonable rev-limiter. my car revs up so fast ill hit 7000 RPM constantly during rolling burnouts, until i took it to the dyno and seen major valve float after 6500 and down 90 RWHP at 7000, lol.
10-07-2010, 11:32 AM
#11
I'm running AIs 230/238 (hand checks 233/241) on a stock bottom end with a jesel sportsman valvetrain and I've revved it to over 6800 a few times. I religious take it to 6300 at the track though and its held up thus far. Even takes nitrous on top of all that.
10-07-2010, 12:41 PM
#13
Here is my 226/234 dyno sheet. This is a 5850 RPM rev limiter and while its clear that im not getting the most of my engine its also pretty clear that a 6200 RPM rev limiter wouldnt be leaving much on the table for the added insurance of not breaking anything. I think a stock block can handle 6200 just fine, my engine has been living on the 5850 limiter ever since i did the LS1 lid. Im going to bump my limiter up as soon as i get my tuning laptop up and running again. I might be building a fresh shortblock this winter and if thats the case I'll really test out the limit next season
10-07-2010, 01:07 PM
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Thanks for the advice guys!
Think I'm just going to give it a shot and set the shift points at 6200rpms when I do it and if it breaks it'll just give me an excuse to go bigger and better in the near future
Just wanting a fun cam to make some good power and have some fun in
Think I'm just going to give it a shot and set the shift points at 6200rpms when I do it and if it breaks it'll just give me an excuse to go bigger and better in the near future
Just wanting a fun cam to make some good power and have some fun in
10-07-2010, 06:01 PM
#20
On LT1s?? The rod bolts are the most stressed fastener in any 4 stroke combustion engine.
Many failures of aftermarket bolts are due to installation error though(caps not seated properly, improper preload, not tq'd down enough, td'd down too much, etc) - you need to install them using a stretch gauge, not just a torque wrench.
Many failures of aftermarket bolts are due to installation error though(caps not seated properly, improper preload, not tq'd down enough, td'd down too much, etc) - you need to install them using a stretch gauge, not just a torque wrench.