ScreaminRedZ

iTrader: (3)

My brother has a 1994 Z28, A4, with minor bolt-ons. Recently his water pump started leaking, so we decided it was the perfect time to upgrade to an electric water pump.

We went with the Summit Racing water pump, which comes with a Painless wiring harness:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CMB-12-0013/

I did a little searching and wasn't really able to find any install threads for this, so I figured I'd post up one with some pictures in the hopes that it helps someone out.



80,000 mile engine bay


Water pump


Water pump gone. At least there's no grime


Parts removed: A.I.R. pump, coil, etc.


Waterpump. Gotta remove those 6 cover bolts then the cover to get to the internals.


Toasted bearing anyone?


Nothing to see here...


Place the water pump in a press and press on the center shaft.


The bearing and driven gear will come out the back.


Then turn the water pump over and press out the sleeve through the front.


Sleeve


Plug for the water pump.


Plug pressed in.


Plug from the back. Pump looks good to go back on as it is, right?


The pump installed into the factory housing. The Summit pump is definitely taller than the one I used on my car years back, which ended up causing an issue later.


Cleaned up a little bit.


Water pump bolted up to the engine.


I knew I'd have to clearance the fan shroud, but this pump was so tall that it actually contacted the fan blades slightly. Not wanting to take chances with this, I cut away more material than needed.






Clearance


Water pump tucked away.


The Painless wiring harness made the electric side of the install a breeze. I installed the relay on the driver side, in front of the CAI, so I could use this ground. I got switched power from the driver side fuse block, on the other side of the CAI.


I put the circuit breaker on the passenger side, next to the battery, and used this positive terminal.


All buttoned up.


Ready to put it back on the ground.


All finished.


After going over everything and making sure the cooling system was filled properly, the coolant temp never comes up very high, to the point that the heat doesn't really work. I recommended to swap the stock thermostat back in it for the winter, but so far it still has the 160 in there. I remember having a similar problem with mine years back, but I never looked into it, and just drove it without heat.

I hope this thread helps someone and any input good or bad is appreciated

tricked94camaro

iTrader: (1)

1 question: why did you have the car on jack stands for a water pump install?

ScreaminRedZ

iTrader: (3)

It was already up in the air because my brother painted his brake calipers, but I would have put the front up anyway when it was time to remove the fans.

tricked94camaro

iTrader: (1)

remove the fans from the top....

1badzee

iTrader: (12)

Nice write-up! That press looks all too familiar.. Harbor freight?

ScreaminRedZ

iTrader: (3)

I've always dropped them down and found it easy that way. Also, with the water pump sticking so far out, I don't think I could have gotten them back in from the top.

Thanks!

Haha, yeah I picked it up there a year ago. One of the best purchases I've made. That was actually the first time I'd been in one of those stores and I must have looked like a little kid on Christmas morning!

1badzee

iTrader: (12)

Yeah harbor freight has some crappy stuff but A LOT of it. I love going there and looking at all the ****. Some of their stuff isn't bad, but other things.. Oh man lol. Friend of mine has that press and bent the **** out of it installing control arm bushings. Not the best built press but it gets the job done I suppose!

ScreaminRedZ

iTrader: (3)

Yeah, you definitely have to be careful what you buy there. For the price of this press though, I can replace it a few times and still be ahead. I also put together a very tool set for very cheap that I keep in my Camaro for changing nitrous jets and bottles.

R3DLT1

iTrader: (5)

nice write up simple and easy!

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Far more access to get to bottom w/p bolts as well as bolt behind the steering pump pulley.
Far easier to pull from the bottom.

LSWHO

iTrader: (1)

Pretty much any "engine" work near the timing cover is easier from the bottom.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

You are silly. The only reason why it is easier to get the fan shroud and W/P bolts out from the bottom is because of the angle of the radiator. There is much more space and access. If the radiator was mounted w/out a steep angle like other "any 'engine'" then it would be easier to do from the top.

LSWHO

iTrader: (1)

I can't really decipher your quotation jibberish. What I was saying is that any "engine" work done on the front of the LT1 f-body is easier from below. I made no comment on any other car. The "engine" part was because working on a water pump or opti or the-likes isn't exactly engine work. You dig?

ScreaminRedZ

iTrader: (3)

Thanks guys! We were hoping to have some dyno numbers, but it looks like the car has a misfire and the air fuel is lean, so we have to look into that first.

What are you guys using for data logging on these cars?

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Much better. Thanks for making an effort to be clear and concise.

quik95lt1

iTrader: (7)

lmao i was gonna say the same thing.......I've got the same press in the famous harbor freight orange lol


yea nice job there OP!!

I used to use datamaster when i had my stock ecm......its free for the first 20 uses or somehting like that too

LSWHO

iTrader: (1)

Fantastic.

ScreaminRedZ

iTrader: (3)

Thanks, for the tip!

LSWHO

iTrader: (1)

OBD1 only.

ScreaminRedZ

iTrader: (3)

Yeah, the car's a 94 so it'll work