ABS Delete
12-03-2010, 12:06 PM
#5
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I agree! Build your own lines! You can also go to the junkyard and get a proportioning block out of a 3rd gen f body and use that instead of a proportioning valve. However it is not adjustable
12-03-2010, 03:23 PM
#6
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anybody have any pics/diagrams with their proportioning valves and the fitting sizes? just trying to get ideas. from what i was told, join the 2 front brakes to form a Y and pop that into the m/c then the rear brakes, which are already in a Y, connect to the prop valve and then the valve to the m/c, correct?
12-03-2010, 03:46 PM
#7
when I get the $$ this is what I plan on doing...
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WIL-260-11179/
Nice and easy, 2 in 3 out, already setup to work with factory lines, just need to bend the ones going to the wheels and make new ones from the master to the valve.....
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WIL-260-11179/
Nice and easy, 2 in 3 out, already setup to work with factory lines, just need to bend the ones going to the wheels and make new ones from the master to the valve.....
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12-03-2010, 04:19 PM
#8
when I get the $$ this is what I plan on doing...
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WIL-260-11179/
Nice and easy, 2 in 3 out, already setup to work with factory lines, just need to bend the ones going to the wheels and make new ones from the master to the valve.....
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WIL-260-11179/
Nice and easy, 2 in 3 out, already setup to work with factory lines, just need to bend the ones going to the wheels and make new ones from the master to the valve.....
12-04-2010, 01:43 AM
#10
Nothing to it but to do it...
I bought all my fittings from NAPA....around $20
Here are some pics...need a "T" for the front lines and a Union for the Rear line
You can see how mine is setup and mounted in these pics....I added the line lock later to help with burnouts....Matt
I bought all my fittings from NAPA....around $20
Here are some pics...need a "T" for the front lines and a Union for the Rear line
You can see how mine is setup and mounted in these pics....I added the line lock later to help with burnouts....Matt
12-04-2010, 04:25 PM
#11
Hey:
I don't think any of those options are cheaper than a 3RD GEN alloy distribution block, you can find them as little as $10 at a junk yard and they shouldn't go bad ever, It is the way I went and have never looked back. Merv used to have some pics of his, in his album.
Dub
I don't think any of those options are cheaper than a 3RD GEN alloy distribution block, you can find them as little as $10 at a junk yard and they shouldn't go bad ever, It is the way I went and have never looked back. Merv used to have some pics of his, in his album.
Dub
12-04-2010, 04:40 PM
#12
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Nothing to it but to do it...
I bought all my fittings from NAPA....around $20
Here are some pics...need a "T" for the front lines and a Union for the Rear line
You can see how mine is setup and mounted in these pics....I added the line lock later to help with burnouts....Matt
I bought all my fittings from NAPA....around $20
Here are some pics...need a "T" for the front lines and a Union for the Rear line
You can see how mine is setup and mounted in these pics....I added the line lock later to help with burnouts....Matt
12-04-2010, 06:41 PM
#13
It is a Single stage TNT kit....
nitrous outlet has a better option though look down this page
http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/catalog...=35§ion=51
nitrous outlet has a better option though look down this page
http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/catalog...=35§ion=51
12-05-2010, 05:44 PM
#14
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Nothing to it but to do it...
I bought all my fittings from NAPA....around $20
Here are some pics...need a "T" for the front lines and a Union for the Rear line
You can see how mine is setup and mounted in these pics....I added the line lock later to help with burnouts....Matt
I bought all my fittings from NAPA....around $20
Here are some pics...need a "T" for the front lines and a Union for the Rear line
You can see how mine is setup and mounted in these pics....I added the line lock later to help with burnouts....Matt
12-08-2010, 11:06 PM
#17
Launching!
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An adjustable proportioning valve will allow to adjust bias needs as it is will not be set correctly without one. Thinking from even a non-professional standpoint... have you ever saw a car come from the factory that didn't include a some sort of valving to correct brake-line pressure?
If you don't use one, the only issue you'll have is your bias will be off and you have no way to adjust it. This means you will not be utilizing your brakes to the fullest resulting in reduced stopping power. I don't know why one would want this, but to each his own. I'm not sure why ~50.00 is not worth allowing you to adjust the brake bias to increase braking efficiency.
I'm not sure where the notion of picking up a 3rd gen proportioning valve came from...which is not adjustable and is not designed for your 4th gen...It’s not going to be correct for your car so don't bother doing it. It makes about as much sense as using another cars computer which was setup for that car...and installing it in yours. A 3rd gen car has a completely different braking system and a completely different weight distribution setup. That valve cannot be adjusted.
Regarding the easiest and painless setup...some have suggested our parts, thank you.
You'll see numbers thrown around but if you add up the pieces...and you are using similar parts as what we include in our kits, you're not going to be saving much of anything let alone the time it will take you to assemble and setup the kit to your liking. The base kits are 139.99 which include a proportioning valve which alone is ~50.00 (every configuration includes a proportioning valve). The kit comes pre-assembled with multiple lines pre-formed replacing your old OEM fittings with new OEM fittings...and include every other fitting you'll need.
We suggest that if you do not have a line lock, you include them with the kits as they are designed to be used with a line lock. You don't HAVE to have it, but you'll need to support the front main line as it should not run down to the frame rail without one. That kit which includes the line lock is 179.99 and includes our custom two stage wiring kit (two switches, LED indicator, wire and misc. electrical fittings).
Breaking down this combination, if you purchased a line lock by itself, added a few switches, misc. electrical needs and an adjustable proportioning valve, it’s going to cost you a minimum of 100.00. You haven't even purchased lines or any type of fitting at this point. If you were to purchase all the fittings and lines as we include, you will be spending more than what the cost of the kit preconfigured costs.
If you're just cutting your stock lines and bending (trying to straighten lines or create new bends) re-using fittings or other parts not using a proportioning valve etc., sure you'll save money. In the end, you don't have anything that resembles what we include in our kit.
Good luck to all,
Steve
Engineer
SJM
If you don't use one, the only issue you'll have is your bias will be off and you have no way to adjust it. This means you will not be utilizing your brakes to the fullest resulting in reduced stopping power. I don't know why one would want this, but to each his own. I'm not sure why ~50.00 is not worth allowing you to adjust the brake bias to increase braking efficiency.
I'm not sure where the notion of picking up a 3rd gen proportioning valve came from...which is not adjustable and is not designed for your 4th gen...It’s not going to be correct for your car so don't bother doing it. It makes about as much sense as using another cars computer which was setup for that car...and installing it in yours. A 3rd gen car has a completely different braking system and a completely different weight distribution setup. That valve cannot be adjusted.
Regarding the easiest and painless setup...some have suggested our parts, thank you.
You'll see numbers thrown around but if you add up the pieces...and you are using similar parts as what we include in our kits, you're not going to be saving much of anything let alone the time it will take you to assemble and setup the kit to your liking. The base kits are 139.99 which include a proportioning valve which alone is ~50.00 (every configuration includes a proportioning valve). The kit comes pre-assembled with multiple lines pre-formed replacing your old OEM fittings with new OEM fittings...and include every other fitting you'll need.
We suggest that if you do not have a line lock, you include them with the kits as they are designed to be used with a line lock. You don't HAVE to have it, but you'll need to support the front main line as it should not run down to the frame rail without one. That kit which includes the line lock is 179.99 and includes our custom two stage wiring kit (two switches, LED indicator, wire and misc. electrical fittings).
Breaking down this combination, if you purchased a line lock by itself, added a few switches, misc. electrical needs and an adjustable proportioning valve, it’s going to cost you a minimum of 100.00. You haven't even purchased lines or any type of fitting at this point. If you were to purchase all the fittings and lines as we include, you will be spending more than what the cost of the kit preconfigured costs.
If you're just cutting your stock lines and bending (trying to straighten lines or create new bends) re-using fittings or other parts not using a proportioning valve etc., sure you'll save money. In the end, you don't have anything that resembles what we include in our kit.
Good luck to all,
Steve
Engineer
SJM
Last edited by SJMMFGINC; 12-08-2010 at 11:13 PM.
12-09-2010, 12:51 AM
#19
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Matt, the price you mentioned sounds about right since you don't run a proportioning valve and you're reusing most of your stock parts. Actually its a bit high. You're setup does is not anything like how our kit is configured.
I'm not here to argue with anyone. We have basic parts that we could offer as well for the do-it-yourself folks. And it won't be much different priced than what Matt suggested.
Our kits are very affordable. We stock a min of 100,000 fittings at a time and have 1000's of feet of line. If one purchased every single item they received in our kit, and did the work themselves, they may have well purchased a prefabbed kit as they will not save anything by doing so...the person has to do the leg-work of building/designing and assembling it on their own...
Once again, if you guys feel you are better off making your own kit and think you're going to save something, we have the parts offered separably as well if you wanted to do a bare basic install as Matt did. Our valve is ~40.00 and add a few fittings and a switch, you will get away with ~50.00-60.00. Less than what Matt spent.
In the end you won't have what we designed but if that fits your budget or needs so be it. It certainly isn't what I'd recommend doing but to each his own. Be forewarned, you're in for quite a bit more work.
I don't recommend removing your ABS system and not utilize a proportioning valve. There will be a difference in braking performance. Without a valve bias WILL be incorrect of which you will have no way to adjust it. Once again though, you'd be engineering your own kit to your liking so if you're happy, that is all that matters.
I'm not here to argue with anyone. We have basic parts that we could offer as well for the do-it-yourself folks. And it won't be much different priced than what Matt suggested.
Our kits are very affordable. We stock a min of 100,000 fittings at a time and have 1000's of feet of line. If one purchased every single item they received in our kit, and did the work themselves, they may have well purchased a prefabbed kit as they will not save anything by doing so...the person has to do the leg-work of building/designing and assembling it on their own...
Once again, if you guys feel you are better off making your own kit and think you're going to save something, we have the parts offered separably as well if you wanted to do a bare basic install as Matt did. Our valve is ~40.00 and add a few fittings and a switch, you will get away with ~50.00-60.00. Less than what Matt spent.
In the end you won't have what we designed but if that fits your budget or needs so be it. It certainly isn't what I'd recommend doing but to each his own. Be forewarned, you're in for quite a bit more work.
I don't recommend removing your ABS system and not utilize a proportioning valve. There will be a difference in braking performance. Without a valve bias WILL be incorrect of which you will have no way to adjust it. Once again though, you'd be engineering your own kit to your liking so if you're happy, that is all that matters.