BALLSS

used the cranes when I did my build

these are another option
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MEL-JB-2079/

918_ws6

thought when you adjust the rocker arms you have to do both heads together...? first half of ex/in rockers at TDC on cyl 1 and the second half at TDC on cyl 6? just my 2 cents. trying to be smart but im sure im failing right now

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

You can do it that way, however there seems to be a bit of differing opinions on whether the lash should be set with the engine running or not.

IMHO, since the LT1s have aluminum heads, and iron blocks, and those materials "move" diferently when fully up to temperature, I think the lash should be set with the engine running, and fully up to temp. When I was messing with the CompRs, that's how I got the best results. However, this means that you're using "poly-locks".

But that's just my $0.02 worth.....


WOW!! A 15 page discussion on valve lifters. One thing that I did learn from all that, is that I unfortunately have the "later" CompR lifters....maybe as a "science project", I'll find the right size "snap ring" and install them in the lifters, in case I ever want to use them again....

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

The point is, it doesn't matter what snap ring you have in place, as long as your valve train is set up properly you will not have a problem. Contrary to popular belief that snap ring does nothing but hold the plunger in place when the lifters have no load on them (ie when they are not installed). Those who have broken the snap ring had stability issues with their valvetrain. The ring used in later lifters, granted looks to be more fragile with a shorter life expectancy if they become an integral part of opening and shutting a valve.

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

Good point, I agree...

wrd1972

iTrader: (12)

Totally agree. The adjustment is very narrow on those lifters and many folks had them adjusted on the loose side and the retainer would take a beating and ultimately fail. If a hydro lifter is adjusted properly, the retainer should never ever be touched by the cup.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

You should have seen the pics posted when that thread first came about. In almost every case, the clips/rings had been HAMMERED, as in the pushrod walked off the plunger and beat the ring to ****, and people want to blame the lifters...
I have a set of newer R's that I ran w/ an 847 cam for 10K miles. Still in great shape. Hope to use them again for something.

quik95lt1

iTrader: (7)

you can do it that way.......kind old school...........i always adjust them using the method i use for my solid roller..........when the intake is just starting to reuturn from full lift you do the exhaust side........when the exhaust is jus starting to open you do the intake..........this ensures that you are on the dead bottom of the lobe........


sbc motors including lt1's with aluminum heads and iron block experience about a .005-.006 expansion growth from heat.......i set mine .006 tighter when cold so when its hot they open up......i lash tight .012 cold so im only .017 hot........as for doing this whith a hydraulic cam I'm not sure if it would even matter..... .006 to a hydraulic cam is negligible

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

I know what you're saying, but I was having issues when I was trying to get my Comp 875Rs set properly, which is a challenge in itself, and as a resident of the "snow belt", a lot of work gets done when the air temp in the garage is down in the 30s. So to get it correct for when the car was going to be driven, during the summer months, I got in the habit of getting the pre-load close but a hair on the tight side, then letting the car idle until it was up to temp, then running through them again.

LT1Z28KR3W

i have a 97 z28, stock lt1 and all. i think my lifters are all bad. i started hearing the ticking/knocking when i got off the freeway. we stethascoped it and it sounded like it was right under the valve cover. pulled the covers off and its not any of the rockers, keepers, springs or anything. so we pulled the whole top off, the lifters look worn to the metal, they didnt even wanna come out. so obviously im replacing them but i would really like some help/input on what kind i should get. for right now im keeping the car stock replacing almost everything with oem parts. but im not sure what kind i should get...decent in price and reliable are what im looking for. help/advise/tips?

nascarnate326

iTrader: (1)

Ls7 ftw.