jahajazz

iTrader: (2)

Below is my current idea for my 383 Build. I currently have a 1996 Z28 M6 with about 170k miles. I have not done any modifications, and the last owner put 4.11 gears in. My power goals are to be around 430rwhp/rwtq.

Clayton Racing 383 Shortblock $1700
TFS 21* 195 Heads $1500
Ported Stock Manifold $200
219/227 .575/.575 VooDoo Lunati Cam $300
Delphi OptiSpark, New Plugs/Wire $500
Pacesetter Full Length Headers/ORY $500
1.6 Ratio Scorpion Full Roller Rockers $250
LS7 Lifters $125
Trickflow Chromemoly pushrods $100
Misc other parts to install $1000

I figure I am in the 6-7 thousand range.

I already have the parts to do a LS1 Lid conversion and I am also considering a Coil conversion. I figure this build will blow up my 10bolt, so I am looking in to an 8.8 build.

I plan on doing all install and assembly work myself and am looking for suggestion on what to change to make the build better overall, without increasing the build cost.

TravisMcGill2000

iTrader: (2)

Why such small cam? I dont see 430 with that cam. You can get le or ai to cut u a cam for same price. Also may wana pick up a 58mm tb to feed that stroker.

Puck

iTrader: (17)

Its not a bad build at all - I've seen a lot worse - but the cam is too small for a 383. Even for a stock cube 350 that is on the small side. Realistically it won't make 430rwhp.

You would save money on buying a ported stocker package from LE or AI instead of paying 1500 for heads then 300 for cam, but then you wouldn't have as many upgrade options. Both companies can get you 430rwhp through a 6-speed pretty easily.

Or, you can keep those heads and just get a healthier cam, and later on if you want more power you can have the TFS heads ported and change the cam for some even bigger numbers.

robsquikz28

iTrader: (246)

x2 with travis.

and im sure you can finds parts for cheaper too

TravisMcGill2000

iTrader: (2)

Check on the for sale section for used parts. You may can save some $. Youll need to throw a extra 500 or so for dyno tune. Plus some bigger injectors.

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

Cam is too small for sure, and honestly, so is your overall budget. You'll need to tack on at LEAST another $1000 for other miscellaneous things like gaskets, tuning, intangibles, etc. What crank in that Clayton shortblock?

Or you could just spend 3k more and buy my entire car (sorry, had to plug ).

Wicked94Z

iTrader: (26)

My heads are for sale for 1300+freight

Wicked94Z

iTrader: (26)

i'll do a custom for 250 more as well on a billet core

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

As cast heads and a baby cam, your recipe and goal are not anywhere near the same page.

Those are quality heads and I am sure the cam is a nice piece for a mild stock displacement motor.


I could not get their site to work well but they have a cast Scat crank shortblock on ebay starting at $1995. A forged Scat rotating assembly for $1700 but then you need to add machining, balancing etc plus a block to put it in.

jahajazz

iTrader: (2)

Regarding the Shortblock, it is the Scat Cast setup with forged rods/pistons. I know the Scat Cast Crank is not popular around here, but I have been told by multiple engine builders it is fine up to 500hp, which my build may only barely reach.

I favored those heads over ported stockers because they have more room to grow. But as my Shortblock cant handle any more than ported stockers could put out anyways it does not seem to make much sense to shell out extra for them.

Bigger injectors (39/42lbs), a 255gph fuel pump, and 58mm TB are all on my list to get, I just forgot to add them in my original post. Also, I know a catback it a good idea, but I actually really like the sound of the stock one. So I know I should get one, I'm just not committed to it.

With the camshaft, would I want to be more in the 23x/24x range with 60x lift to get up to the 430+ range? My restrictions with cam are two: 1) I have to be able to run A/C well as I'm in AZ and this is my DD, and 2) I dont want to sacrifice a lot of low end torque for high end hp. If I cant make my goal without losing low end torque I will have to lower it to something more reasonable.

Thanks for all the quick replies. What would be the correct forum here to discuss the merits of this build vs. a 6.0 L92 swap?

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

Some things don't add up here.

You expect 430whp which is well in excess of 500fwhp, so what makes you (and your engine builders) assume that a cast crank rated at 500HP would handle it? If that's your goal here then you will need to go forged, period.

You don't give ported stockers enough credit. I have the AI 200cc ported stock castings on my car, a cam similar to your suggested second post specs (23x, 24x), and put down the numbers in my signature. Ported stock castings from AI have sustained power levels regularly pushing cars into the single digits.

Having been there, done that, along with several other of the guys on this forum I would revise your crankshaft and valvetrain decisions.

Wicked94Z

iTrader: (26)

Hm... depends what you consider driveable, and what valvetrain components you want to run. Needs a decent amount of overlap with those heads and cubes IMO

Wicked94Z

iTrader: (26)

Regularly into the 9s? Don't you mean ONCE assuming we're talking NA like the OP?

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

I'll just quote myself again:

Ported stock castings from AI have sustained power levels regularly pushing cars into the single digits.

Did I say anything about N/A only? No? Okay then...now quiet down.

Wicked94Z

iTrader: (26)

oh ok sorry, I guess we'll up it to 3 cars in 8 years

jahajazz

iTrader: (2)

I must be misinformed, as I thought that 500 crank horsepower calculates to about 425 rear wheel horse power.

If I redefine my power goal as 500 Crank horsepower (to be safe with the cast crank), what would be a solid setup to get me there? An LE1 Package with an appropriate cam? or is that going too small? I have never modded LT1's, so I'm just trying to learn as much as I can from you guys.

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

The problem is that those crank ratings doesn't mean it will survive at 500 and fail at 501. For reliability purposes spend the extra $300 or so on a forged crank.

Honestly I'd call up AI or LE and ask them. They'll hook you up.

Wicked94Z

iTrader: (26)

cookie cutter that **** up.

joshh123

iTrader: (1)

hahahahahahahahahaha

TwoFast4Lv

iTrader: (8)

I do not see the problem on the cam. we made 450 through a A4 and a 12 bolt un-locked with a messly 230/230 cam......