I need some direction....
06-20-2011, 11:22 PM
#1
I need some direction.... Hello all. I'm trying to plan out some future modifications, and this seems like a good place to start. Keep in mind I don't have a HUGE amount of information on my motor, but I'll give you what I have. The previous owner had all the work done by others, and also didnt know too much about it. He apparently bought the motor fully built from some guy, and didn't get a spec sheet or anything.
383 Stroker:
GM847 Cam
Eagle Crank, Eagle Rods
SRP Forged Pistons (Not sure where the compression ratio is at)
1.6 Roller Rockers
Comp Springs (no idea on their rating)
42lb Injectors (might be larger, not sure on that)
LPE CAI
Pacesetter Longtubes
Full Exhaust
PCMforless tune
I spoke with the person who dyno'd the car, and he said other than a split second pig rich moment when you first mash the gas, its perfect tune wise. I'm really looking to do heads and intake for starters, possibly a small shot at it once that is all done. The previous owner said that the car has stock heads and Intake.... but I'm not sure WHAT heads. I DO know that there are a few weird things with this motor... and keep in mind I'm not too familiar with Chevrolets in general:
The fuel lines appear to be routed a bit differently than a stock LT1. Here is a Pic to illustrate what I mean:
A closer look at the fuel line routing:
I used some DEI heat tape I had laying around to try and insulate the lines, since they were getting awefully hot above that primary. I couldnt touch tem without burning my hand before, now they stay relatively cool to the touch.
The Coolant temp sender for the dash gauge is NOT on the drivers side like normal, I had to extend the harness to the passengers side to get it to work. I still have to solder and put the wire in teh harness, so the butt connector and wires holding it ar temporary. I also heat taped the harness to sheild it from the heat down there, and put a new sensor in.
You can also see that the oil cap is directly on the valve cover, as opposed to having an actual neck, something else thats a bit different.
Any ideas on how to ID the heads on-car?
Finally, and suggestions on how to proceed from here? Like I said, this is for the future, but I'm sort of trying to flesh out a plan. Thanks in advance!
EDIT: Also one more weird thing. There is a PCV valve pushed into a hole on the intake, drivers side, right behind where the brake booster like connects. It has a very short hose that just loops back around to ANOTHER port on the intake. Wierd, eh? I know for sure that the car doesn't pull much for vac, as the Trans slams into gear when you put it in drive or reverse (vac modulated) and the brakes have a hard time holding the car at a stop light. It stops just fine, but with the cam burbling, it just seems to want to go, and you have to have a heavey foot to keep it stopped LOL
383 Stroker:
GM847 Cam
Eagle Crank, Eagle Rods
SRP Forged Pistons (Not sure where the compression ratio is at)
1.6 Roller Rockers
Comp Springs (no idea on their rating)
42lb Injectors (might be larger, not sure on that)
LPE CAI
Pacesetter Longtubes
Full Exhaust
PCMforless tune
I spoke with the person who dyno'd the car, and he said other than a split second pig rich moment when you first mash the gas, its perfect tune wise. I'm really looking to do heads and intake for starters, possibly a small shot at it once that is all done. The previous owner said that the car has stock heads and Intake.... but I'm not sure WHAT heads. I DO know that there are a few weird things with this motor... and keep in mind I'm not too familiar with Chevrolets in general:
The fuel lines appear to be routed a bit differently than a stock LT1. Here is a Pic to illustrate what I mean:
A closer look at the fuel line routing:
I used some DEI heat tape I had laying around to try and insulate the lines, since they were getting awefully hot above that primary. I couldnt touch tem without burning my hand before, now they stay relatively cool to the touch.
The Coolant temp sender for the dash gauge is NOT on the drivers side like normal, I had to extend the harness to the passengers side to get it to work. I still have to solder and put the wire in teh harness, so the butt connector and wires holding it ar temporary. I also heat taped the harness to sheild it from the heat down there, and put a new sensor in.
You can also see that the oil cap is directly on the valve cover, as opposed to having an actual neck, something else thats a bit different.
Any ideas on how to ID the heads on-car?
Finally, and suggestions on how to proceed from here? Like I said, this is for the future, but I'm sort of trying to flesh out a plan. Thanks in advance!
EDIT: Also one more weird thing. There is a PCV valve pushed into a hole on the intake, drivers side, right behind where the brake booster like connects. It has a very short hose that just loops back around to ANOTHER port on the intake. Wierd, eh? I know for sure that the car doesn't pull much for vac, as the Trans slams into gear when you put it in drive or reverse (vac modulated) and the brakes have a hard time holding the car at a stop light. It stops just fine, but with the cam burbling, it just seems to want to go, and you have to have a heavey foot to keep it stopped LOL
Last edited by Quazz; 06-20-2011 at 11:27 PM.
06-21-2011, 12:38 AM
#2
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The fuel lines don't look safe being in that spot... the way its routed from the factory is its routed alongside the air intake then sits then in between the valve cover and intake manifold. You should get some heat wrap on those lines asap before it causes a fire. The oil cap is missing the factory oil filler which was a few inches tall and made it easier to fill with oil. The pcv hose on the intake is fine. It's hard to tell by the pics but the injectors might be stock but if their are 42lb injectors are a little big for your engine mods.
06-21-2011, 03:35 AM
#4
^^ Agreed. I don't think that the previous owner did any cleaning under the hood...
On the other hand, at least he didnt pressure wash it.
As far as the fuel lines, I put some DEI Heat tape over them because it made me nervous. The fuel lines are much cooler. I would rather rout them the factory way, but I cant really see how to accomplish that. I guess the oil filler isn't a big deal to me, so that can stay as is. I can get a closer view of the Injectors if need be..... They look like a set of Lucas Injectors... and they have either a very light green or light blue ring on them. I can;t see a Part number, but I'll at least get a better snapshot of one close up.
Any ideas on the heads?
On the other hand, at least he didnt pressure wash it.
As far as the fuel lines, I put some DEI Heat tape over them because it made me nervous. The fuel lines are much cooler. I would rather rout them the factory way, but I cant really see how to accomplish that. I guess the oil filler isn't a big deal to me, so that can stay as is. I can get a closer view of the Injectors if need be..... They look like a set of Lucas Injectors... and they have either a very light green or light blue ring on them. I can;t see a Part number, but I'll at least get a better snapshot of one close up.
Any ideas on the heads?
06-21-2011, 06:40 AM
#5
The fuel lines don't look safe being in that spot... the way its routed from the factory is its routed alongside the air intake then sits then in between the valve cover and intake manifold. You should get some heat wrap on those lines asap before it causes a fire.
This is a 93 intake and fuel line setup, I agree with above if it was a 94-97 setup. The fuel lines will be fine, they are not sitting on the headers and the v-covers dont get hot to where they melt plastic. You could also contact speedinc and get a fuel line relocation kit or do it yourself.
If it was my car as of today I would first:
Disconnect fuel lines from rail.
Pull your driver side wheel well.
Locate a spot to hole saw under the brake booster but not on the firewall then install rubber grommet.
Re-route your fuel lines through rubber grommet and sort of behind/under the brake booster and along firewall then back onto intake.
You will see once you pull wheel well and have lines disconnected that you have plenty of extra fuel line length. Just coil it up and cable tie it up under wheel well out of harms way.
Make nice little plug or weld over old fuel line hole if your going to spray engine bay eventually.
06-21-2011, 06:46 AM
#6
Also pull one of your valve covers and you will find casting number on your heads that will need to have the last three digits.
Like 374 or 641 or something along those lines. I'm guessing that this being a 1993 car and if the heads are original they will be a set of 374.
Do not quote me guys but I'm thinking they were the more desirable casting number for porting from the thicker meat around the port roof and rocker stud location. I'm 99% sure on a 96-97 the heads are thinner but flow a tad better and cant be ported as aggressive.
Like 374 or 641 or something along those lines. I'm guessing that this being a 1993 car and if the heads are original they will be a set of 374.
Do not quote me guys but I'm thinking they were the more desirable casting number for porting from the thicker meat around the port roof and rocker stud location. I'm 99% sure on a 96-97 the heads are thinner but flow a tad better and cant be ported as aggressive.
06-21-2011, 06:50 AM
#7
I just realized your car has a 92-93 intake and TV cable for 700r4 and a MAF sensor......... WTF lol.... this thing is neat if the car is a true to the bone 93 maybe the owner installed a 94-97 harness and PCM to run MAF sensor. OR the car is a 94-97 with a swapped over 93 intake and fuel line setup being the fuel lines are routed funky.
Nothing bad about any of this just trying to help you figure out what you have.
Nothing bad about any of this just trying to help you figure out what you have.
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06-21-2011, 05:55 PM
#8
LOL
The car is a 1994 z28. Other than the PCM tune, the electronics are stock 1994. How do you tell the difference between a 92/93 and a 94/95 intake? If there are differences that would explain the fuel line routing.
The Heat tape seems to be doing its job, the lines stayed fairly cool in a traffic Jam today.
The only things I notice with the car running funny are the slight surging on the highway at part throttle, and when you get on it hard it gives a good puff of black smoke (rich as hell for a split second) for just a split second. It also runs about 185-190 on the stock temp gauge while cruising, and the fans turn on right when they should. It DOES have a 160* thermostat apparently.
The car is a 1994 z28. Other than the PCM tune, the electronics are stock 1994. How do you tell the difference between a 92/93 and a 94/95 intake? If there are differences that would explain the fuel line routing.
The Heat tape seems to be doing its job, the lines stayed fairly cool in a traffic Jam today.
The only things I notice with the car running funny are the slight surging on the highway at part throttle, and when you get on it hard it gives a good puff of black smoke (rich as hell for a split second) for just a split second. It also runs about 185-190 on the stock temp gauge while cruising, and the fans turn on right when they should. It DOES have a 160* thermostat apparently.
