You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, join LS1Tech.com today!
If the lines are rusty then IMO you should just find something to clean them instead of getting into redoing brake lines. It can be a real challenge unless you have experience and a real good cutting/flaring tool. You may find yourself with leaks and other problems after all is said and done.
__________________ 1996 Chevrolet Camaro Z28 SS #597 M6
Originally Posted by z28SSilvest
You sir, are a genius with the mind of a 10 year old.
Dude do yourself a favor and get some lines off of another car. I removed my ABS system and had to reflare all 5 lines to fit inside my new distribution block. I HAD TO REDO IT 3 TIMES BECAUSE OF LEAKS. I EVEN HAD TO BUY ANOTHER $100 DIST. BLOCK BECAUSE I SCREWED THE FIRST ONE UP. WHAT A PAIN IN THE ***, THAT WAS ONE HELL OF A NIGHTMARE...
__________________ 94' Camaro Z28/02' SS clone. AFR 180cc heads, custom comp cam, geared, stalled and bolt ons
I've been working on putting new rear brake lines on my 9" that I'm installing...What a pain in the ***. I ordered the new rubber hoses that go from the main brake line going to the rear and the two that go to each caliper.
Well the connection at the center of the axle is a standard 3/8th brake line connection you can get at any autoparts store. HOWEVER the connection on the hoses that go to each caliper is a metric "bubble" flare fitting. Which turns out to be next to impossible to find. Here is a link to it at rock auto:
after suffering with the cheap crap a few times, I said screw it and made an investment, it's not cheap and no regrets. i can do perfect double flares now every time and very quickly.
yes that is the one i have as well works awesome!! i re-did every brake line and every rubber line(replaced with braided stainless) and added a line lock and portioning valve so all together i think i did 16 double flares on my car(if not more) it was very time consuming and i really spent the time to do it right(all the bending ect. it took all of 2 days for sure... but it was totally worth it. also if your a rookie i probably wouldnt try it.. esp without the right tools. the line u would need its 3/16 btw
Making brake lines for a while now, I've found a trick you can do. You can form a "bubble flare" that seals just fine using a standard inverted flare tool. Instead of putting the line with the end on the recessed side of the line clamp, put the end on the flat side of the clamp and only do the 1st step of the inverted flare (that being with the little fitting you use). I've done every single Corvette and F-Body line lock I've sold this way as well as my own personal cars and haven't had a leak or failure yet.
__________________ LTxTech -- For all your Gen II needs
99 APS TT'd Corvette -- 377 LS3, Patriot 317, GT2-3, APS TT -- 761 RWHP 760 RWTQ *SOLD 11-18-10*
93 T/A -- Pile of LTx
99 Toyota Celica with a Gen II 3S-GTE - 250 WHP 260 WTQ
I would consider myself pretty intermediate to advanced in skills/knowledge. I think I am going to go with buying that flaring kit off amazon. I really want to do it right, take my time, and make it look good. I would much rather take all winter to make my car exactly the way I want than rush to finish for a couple weeks in the beginning of fall.
Question 2: What is the standard method of mounting brake lines to the body? Any particular type of fastener?
Question 3: Any tips or tricks on the actual flaring and bending process? Anyone recommend a particular bender?