How much can my internals handle?
11-06-2011, 07:39 AM
#1
Staging Lane
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How much can my internals handle? I'm looking to finally do some internal engine work on my 93 LT1. Wanted to stroke to a 383 but its $$$ so I was thinking doing heads, cam, maybe a set of forged pistons. Anyways, how radical can I get with heads and cam with stock internals? Don't wanna spend 3 grand then blow my motor lol thanks!
11-06-2011, 08:04 AM
#2
On The Tree
Many have taken the 1994-1996 stock internals to 500 FWHP with success. The powdered metal rods are supposedly good for 450 but many have exceeded that. You 1993 probably has the pink rods that weren't as strong. I would think that if you don't want to "blow your motor" you should limit horsepower to around 400 at the flywheel. That would be pushing it.
You're talking a very mild 383 build and I think you'd be much happier saving for a forged rotating assembly and going for the 450-475 horsepower range for a great daily driver with good street manners.
You're talking a very mild 383 build and I think you'd be much happier saving for a forged rotating assembly and going for the 450-475 horsepower range for a great daily driver with good street manners.
11-06-2011, 08:58 AM
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Staging Lane
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Ya I wanna just do it right I hate to half *** it lol my buddy has a 99 LS1 with a nasty *** cam and he walks me HARD, all I wanna do is beat him 
but ideally I want like 420 or so rear wheel power with spray just in case! Anyone know a good LT1 shop in the Houston area?
but ideally I want like 420 or so rear wheel power with spray just in case! Anyone know a good LT1 shop in the Houston area?
11-06-2011, 09:21 AM
#7
On The Tree
I'm just a fuzz confused. You say that you want to do a 383 with stock internals. You're going to need a crank to get to 383. You're going to go with forged pistons, what's stock about your internals........the pink rods. I wouldn't recommend them for 400 RWHP and certainly not spraying anything.
This is based on the assumption that you don't want to "blow your engine".
You're going to be a LOT better off buying a forged rotating assembly. You're already going to have 2/3 of it.
This is based on the assumption that you don't want to "blow your engine".
You're going to be a LOT better off buying a forged rotating assembly. You're already going to have 2/3 of it.
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11-06-2011, 10:45 AM
#8
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just do a top end build.
nice ported heads (i have a set im selling with a valve job), cam (cc 306 is a nice one), ported intake, injectors
thatll put you right around 400
and its street friendly.
and with the 383 youd have a high risk of blowing it.
i was going to do the 383
wayyyyyy to much stuff that goes along with it.
nice ported heads (i have a set im selling with a valve job), cam (cc 306 is a nice one), ported intake, injectors
thatll put you right around 400
and its street friendly.
and with the 383 youd have a high risk of blowing it.
i was going to do the 383
wayyyyyy to much stuff that goes along with it.
11-06-2011, 06:45 PM
#14
the pink ones were the earlier ones in 93 and part of 94 (i think). 95+ has the powdered metal ones which are supposed to be stronger. As far as i know, the pink ones were also pretty strong. I think they were used in the early LT-1s
11-06-2011, 10:39 PM
#16
Far as install work? There are really none left that still work on these cars in Houston. But machine work, HKE. My 398 is there now, Erik has built a ton of LT1s. Your power goal can be reached through a good heads and cam set up in a six speed 10 Bolt car. My '93 makes 415RWHP through a 12 Bolt with a set of LME ported Darts and an off the shelf "CC306" cam. I left power on the table with the cam, but being the first heads and cam swap my buddy Jon94z and I had ever done, I was willing to sacrifice a $100 used CC306 in the name of learning and a little bit of nostalgia. That cam won't be reused on the next set up though. If your leaving it NA, just do a stock rebuild on the bottom end if it has a ton of miles, get a H/C set up from AI or LE and go from there, LT1 casting will easily support your power goals. Is your car a six speed or Auto? Biggest hurdle with the 93s is the ECM, get ready to invest in chip burning or convert to a 94-95 MAF PCM. I did an EFI 24X set up for a few reasons, but a 94-95 PCM will work just fine. Is the car still all stock?
Last edited by BizZzatch350; 11-06-2011 at 10:45 PM.
11-07-2011, 08:53 AM
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Im glad you didnt give up on the LT1 after you got that sweet vette 
Far as install work? There are really none left that still work on these cars in Houston. But machine work, HKE. My 398 is there now, Erik has built a ton of LT1s. Your power goal can be reached through a good heads and cam set up in a six speed 10 Bolt car. My '93 makes 415RWHP through a 12 Bolt with a set of LME ported Darts and an off the shelf "CC306" cam. I left power on the table with the cam, but being the first heads and cam swap my buddy Jon94z and I had ever done, I was willing to sacrifice a $100 used CC306 in the name of learning and a little bit of nostalgia. That cam won't be reused on the next set up though. If your leaving it NA, just do a stock rebuild on the bottom end if it has a ton of miles, get a H/C set up from AI or LE and go from there, LT1 casting will easily support your power goals. Is your car a six speed or Auto? Biggest hurdle with the 93s is the ECM, get ready to invest in chip burning or convert to a 94-95 MAF PCM. I did an EFI 24X set up for a few reasons, but a 94-95 PCM will work just fine. Is the car still all stock?
11-07-2011, 06:07 PM
#19
Can't give up on the ol LT1 car, C6 is nice but LT1 is a long term project, wanted some thing fun that didn't need any thing I could drive in the mean time. I'll eventually get rid of the C6 for some thing else in a few years, maybe a used Viper or C6 Z.
