SRZ

iTrader: (14)

I fried something but I don't know what or even really where to begin. Initially I THOUGHT I had a battery issue as the voltage was low. I get it recharged and hook it up only to see the volt reading on the dash in the low 10 range and the my laptop confirms this when looking at the XFI. Not enough to start the car w/ the XFI. I used my jumper cables w/ the truck running and still would only see 11v or thereabouts. Turned the key and it would turn over but the voltage would drop thus not enough volts for the XIM to charge the coils. So I go get a brand new Yellow top and confirmed it had enough juice, 12.5v being 83% full. I crank it, the starter turns over and it sounded like it wanted to fire but then I hear a poof or spark type sound inside the bay. The bay had a slight misty haze, wasn't cherry in smell but it definitely was electric in nature....don't know what fried. Interior lights are still bright but the warning lights on the dash are dim when you key the car...which is weird. Hooked the laptop back up to the car and the XFI read 6.5v and this is the new battery! Had the battery triple checked after that took place...still 12.5v, 83% full. I put jumpers on the car after this and it doesn't change the volt reading at all w/ the truck running. So ****** tired of this damn car. All the fuses are fine too and have looked at every one. Fuseable links? None of the wiring appears damaged. All grounds are clean and have dielectric grease. Just doesn't make sense that a new battery didn't fix my initial issue of a dead battery and now a fully charged battery reads 6.5v on the XFI, even the dash volt gauge is deader than a door ****.

Any ideas before I part this POS out? I hope I made some kinda sense in what I wrote. Thanks.

msydow

not sure if the LT's have the grounds on the rear of the cylinder heads, but i know on the LS motors they affect the gauge operation. it seems like your pcm is not seeing the full 12 volts from the battery. if you could get the pinouts and see which pins power the pcm and which would reference voltage to the pcm and back probe them with everything hooked up and the key on. disconnecting things and checking for voltage can be misleading because one strand of a wire can carry 12 volts when disconnected but cannot carry the amperage when under a load. good luck man i hate electrical problems.

SRZ

iTrader: (14)

Grounds for the LT's are on the ds head. All those checked out but I'll double check again. Thanks for the suggestion.

Any other ideas? I hate electrical too and I've wired this entire car from the ground up w/ no prior issues until now. Wiring is NOT my forte'.

Cooldude5231

iTrader: (6)

did you check all your wiring running from the battery?
make sure nothing is frayed.
sounds like something may be grounding out which is stopping you from getting sufficient power

msydow

just thought of something else. check and make sure your getting a good connection though the battery cable. check voltage at the fuse panel and alternator.

SRZ

iTrader: (14)

This is gonna sound weird and not make sense at the same time. Don't ask me how, it's just what is its. I did a relocate batt early this yr. No problem w/ the install etc. Then I proceeded w/ the XIM, COP and crank trigger install. No problem, as I didn't never hook the pwr wire for the XIM as I was working on the side mount post that was stripped on the battery. I use the top post for the battery cables all 0 guage and the side posts for the XIM only. Before I could hook the XIM up I had to upgrade my XFI software as the old version wasn't compatible w/ the XIM. I did this w/ the way the battery system is currently setup as as in the trunk.

The reason for the low voltage reading to the best of my ability is when I did the relocate, the neg cable I attached it to the frame vs running it back up to the front of the car. I have a junction block up where the battery is and from there I got a neg cable going from it to the block. I tried jumping the car again and this time I decided to run the neg connector to the frame and this time I got 14v ! Before I'd just go directly to the battery. But what I can't figure out is what caused the poof from the 1st attempt?

As I said I'm not electrician but self taught and that's a steep learning curve for my old ***. LOL So am I going to have to run a neg cable from the battery all the way up to the front of the car to my negative junction block? I thought you could just run that cable to a raw area of the frame and be good to go. I don't do well w/ directions and I thought I followed it to a T.

The car still wouldn't start but I only imagine that's because that neg cable isn't done correctly as in not getting the proper voltage...but it'll turn over and click and the volts would drop in doing so.

IT WAS a grounding issue. Thanks guys! Had the neg batt cable in the wrong location. 14v and good to go. Thanks again!

Silas

93QWKZEE

iTrader: (13)

So you eneded up running a 0gauge all the way up front to fix this? I ran my batt to the back too and sometimes it will click, I also ran my negative cable to the frame in the rear. Im stumped!

lt1badbird

iTrader: (-1)

i have my Fast under the dash and battery in the rear. i have 00 ga. cable for power and ground ran up to the junction blocks the fast connects too. and was told by FAST to ground the fast directly to the battery and not to a frame or anything

05HD

As you may or may not know, the starter motor grounds thru the engine block. So, if the block isn't grounded well to the chassis, it will cook any weak grounds going from the block to the chassis with the 600 or so amps the starter draws.

SRZ

iTrader: (14)

No but I thought you would have to. My neg bat cable wasn't grounded correctly in the back of the car. I moved it to another location and that's when I discovered I didn't have it grounded.
I don't have my box grounded directly to the battery but to the junction block. Guess it could be the same. Now my XIM is directly on the battery.
Ah......so for the weak grounds, will the need to be redone or will those ground wires still be ok? Thanks for the bit information!