give me traction
#1
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
give me traction
As my car currently is traction is pretty much zero in 1 2 and sometimes in 3rd. It seems to do fine in the summer when its warm... not now. Its got 3.73s. Lower control arms sub frame connectors and is riding on 18 inch z06 wheels with 295the 35 wide ovals. Its also has adjustable koni shocks. This sucks. Advise???
#3
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
oh forgot I've got the brackets lca bolted to the lowest slot. Do the low pro 18's hurt my traction this bad??? all the 4th gens i've drove on stock wheels seem to hook hard even when the pavement is damp...
#6
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
It's a forged 9:1 12psi long tubes n all the usuall stuff for the engine. Koni adjustable front struts on the loosest setting, koni rears stock springs, factory torque arm the tires are firestone wide ovals 295 35 18's on 2002 z06 rims. no I have not found instant center. I don't know how. the best 60 foot i did was a 2.0 a few years ago on these tires when all it had was a hot cam. hadn't been back cause i kept breaking stuff. I'm ready to swap the z06 rims for some salad shooters...
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#8
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It's a forged 9:1 12psi long tubes n all the usuall stuff for the engine. Koni adjustable front struts on the loosest setting, koni rears stock springs, factory torque arm the tires are firestone wide ovals 295 35 18's on 2002 z06 rims. no I have not found instant center. I don't know how. the best 60 foot i did was a 2.0 a few years ago on these tires when all it had was a hot cam. hadn't been back cause i kept breaking stuff. I'm ready to swap the z06 rims for some salad shooters...
#9
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Well before you get all crazy and get different wheels.....
A quick and easy way to get a good understanding of where you suspensions instant center is to draw an imaginary line from the very middle of the rear end(center of axle tubes but inside of the pumpkin). from there you go to the front location of the Torque arm. next use the angle of your rear LCAs and draw a line, from the attachment point of where the lca attach to the bracket on the axle, forward. Where the lines from the Torque arm and lcas intersect is your theoretical Instant center. This needs to be in the general area of the cars center of gravity. If it is too far from this point traction issues will occur no matter what tire you run.
A quick and easy way to get a good understanding of where you suspensions instant center is to draw an imaginary line from the very middle of the rear end(center of axle tubes but inside of the pumpkin). from there you go to the front location of the Torque arm. next use the angle of your rear LCAs and draw a line, from the attachment point of where the lca attach to the bracket on the axle, forward. Where the lines from the Torque arm and lcas intersect is your theoretical Instant center. This needs to be in the general area of the cars center of gravity. If it is too far from this point traction issues will occur no matter what tire you run.
#10
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Your gonna need to invest in a TA and some time setting up your car to get traction. Tires would be my first purchase, then start learning about suspension geometry and adjustable suspension. No matter how well you setup your car's suspension now, it will not work with radial tires and especially with a power adder on the street.
#12
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Your gonna need to invest in a TA and some time setting up your car to get traction. Tires would be my first purchase, then start learning about suspension geometry and adjustable suspension. No matter how well you setup your car's suspension now, it will not work with radial tires and especially with a power adder on the street.
#13
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Sounds to me it's that procharger causing all the traction issues Take that off and I'm sure you'll hook up better Like the others mentioned, at that power level (over 500 I assume) you need drag radials to hook decently, and the 18" wheels/tires aren't doing you any favors over say 315mm 17" tire or smaller 16" or 15" tires/wheels. Adjustable torque arm would be the next step after tires.
#14
11 Second Club
Its colder outside now. For every 10* drop in temp you gain 1hp!
#15
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
Well i'll get to work on some tires. Anyone have 18's and decent traction? Its got to be set up wrong somewhere. Maybe its in my mind. You think some factory struts would help? My car drives nothing like the all the others drive its really don't stiff and has absolutely zero squat when you hammer in it. Thanks for all the help keep it coming
#17
It cant be the koni adjustables, we all know that those give better traction for the hole shot.
Do you drive the car in rain? This could be a decieding factor in tire choice. Nittos get pretty crazy when it gets damp out or wet roads, in some ways on a damp road they are probably worse then the firestones, In my cam only car its like driving on slushy ice roads, if your good your good, if you give it a tad more....your sideways in no time.
BFG's might be a better choice for you if you drive the car alot. I think their wet weather performance is better.
IF no wet driving, id say give the nitto NT05r's a shot. But even the good BFG's can compare to a nitto 555r.
Do you drive the car in rain? This could be a decieding factor in tire choice. Nittos get pretty crazy when it gets damp out or wet roads, in some ways on a damp road they are probably worse then the firestones, In my cam only car its like driving on slushy ice roads, if your good your good, if you give it a tad more....your sideways in no time.
BFG's might be a better choice for you if you drive the car alot. I think their wet weather performance is better.
IF no wet driving, id say give the nitto NT05r's a shot. But even the good BFG's can compare to a nitto 555r.
#19
10 Second Club
iTrader: (2)
You don't want it to squat, and your not getting font end movement (pitch rotation) because the tires are spinning. You have to have some traction to allow the suspension to do it's job. That's why I said no adjustment in suspension is going to make a difference until you get better tires!