Ballinonabudget

iTrader: (12)

I've searched and searched, and the only detailed install I can find is for LS1's, I know it's pretty much the same thing but it's not helping me with my problem.

Just pulled out a set of Dynatech LT's and now I'm trying to get the Pacesetters in. When I was pulling the Dynatechs out, it was like I just couldn't get the car jacked high enough for them to clear. Same thing now trying to get the Pacesetters in, it's like they have to be angled up super far and the collector just bangs the ground.

Do I or should I remove the steering linkage?

Anyone got a detailed install for LT1's with pics or any tricks to make this easier?

Should I use some copper RTV (super high temp) in between the heads/gasket/flange on the headers or just use the gaskets by themselves?

Any helpful tips, links, or info is greatly appreciated. I have had open headers on my car for a year now and I would really love to get it done tonight!

lt1slowz28

i did my driver side from the bottom, kind of twisted it in there, and steering/ everything i could was out of the way. passenger I did it from the top, removed the alt and a few other things, then squeezed it in.

wysemunky

iTrader: (2)

I had to remove the steering shaft to get mine in but it was no big deal, and you shouldn't have to use any type of sealant on the gaskets if they are decent quality.

Catmaigne

iTrader: (6)

I had to remove the steering linkage to get the driver side header in from the bottom. Took a bit or prying but it eventually slid off the column and ps pump.

Don't use sealant on the gaskets. Remember to re-tighten the header bolts after taking the car for a drive.

96lt1m6

iTrader: (31)

I had a lift to my disposal. The following was removed:
Disconnect battery
Coolant temperature switch in drivers head.
All spark plugs.
Steering linkage(replaced with a reclocked Ls1 unit).
Oil filter(time to change anyway).
Oil pan drain plug.
Starter.
Alternator.
Dipstick.
Egr tube.
Small ground wire on pass side block, goes to o2 sensor harness.
Both valve covers(perfect time to do 1.6rockers,7/16studs,plates,pushrods and spring kit)
Reinstall with copper header gaskets(I prefer them 6 years and no leaks).

93v8clone

with the paceseters on the driver side , yank steering arm -oil filter and plugs . they should slide right in at the right angle .

95mysticta

iTrader: (4)

Every car and every install is different. I removed as much as i could to make my install easier but its totally up to you how much you do take off. I unbolted the the alt, starter, valve covers, and steering shaft to have as much room possible. Again everybody does it differently so it can vary how they go in. I had my car jacked up as high as i could to almost have my headers stand straight up. I installed my drivers through the bottom and took a little wiggling and manoevering to get it in but it went in with ease. The passenger side was a bitch and no matter what i did it just wouldnt go in from the top or bottom. Im sure if i didnt have the AIR fitting they would go right in from the bottom but they kept hitting the shock towers. I ended up having to unbolting the motor mount and jack the motor up and it litterly fell in place from the top. IMO after going through all that bullshit of scratching the headers and underhood area trying to make them fit if i were to do it again i would simply unbolt each motor mount and jack up the motor to slide them with zero effort. All cars are different but thats how i did mine and how i would do it again if it were me.

carlos64030

iTrader: (5)

If all else fails, remove the two motor mounts and slightly Jack up the motor for additional clearance.

camar0corey

iTrader: (22)

Yep pull the steering shaft, oil filter, starter. I like to pull the starter so I can actually get my arm in there for plugs 6 and 8 with no issue. Also helps if your motor mounts aren't shot.

I tend to only be putting headers in after I've had the motor out so I usually already have all this stuff off the motor anyway. (I always pull my motors out the top.)

5o2slow

iTrader: (1)

i feel you bro, dont feel bad am going thru the same issue but only on the driver side. Gonna have to try with the steering linkage off if dont work motor mount will be next. By the way in the instruction it say to loosen the engine mount, but who reads them things

zraffz

iTrader: (1)

Driver's side I squeeked it in after taking apart the steering link. Passenger side I had to pop off the valve cover, alternator and motor mount bolt.

Uwilllosetomy93lt1

Found to be best method for myself, without taking off all the other stuff.

trilkb

iTrader: (4)

I found that with the pacesetter headers the rag joint on the steering linkage has funky metal bracketry on it and it needs to be cut off so there are no issues when turning. The steering linkage comming out is probably the most important thing besides getting the car in the air....This picture is from my M6 camaro pacesetter install...I beleive i had it probably 6-8inches higher at one point too.

carlos64030

iTrader: (5)

Removing the steering linkage SHOULD be the main thing that gets removed since it's so easy to do.

Ballinonabudget

iTrader: (12)

Thanks for the help guys, so the steering linkage comes off with just a few bolts and some jimmying? The big issue seems to be getting the car high enough, it sucks now that the headers are out I can't get it up on ramps which would have probably made life easier. I installed the Dynatechs when the shortblock only was in the car, they just slid right in and I couldn't understand why everyone said LT's were such a PITA. Well it turns out the pacesetters are SUBSTANTIALLY longer than the dynatechs and now that all the accessories are on the motor it really is a PITA lol!

I have removed the coolant sensor, oil sensor, all plugs and wires, no egr/air, and I have the Speed inc full alt relocation kit. So I'm hoping once I unbolt the steering linkage I won't have any more issues. I haven't tried the passenger side header yet but everyone says that one is easy.. lets hope so!

On another note I will be selling the ceramic coated Dynatech LT's I pulled if anyone needs some nice long tubes. They were a lot easier to install and pull than these pacesetters. The only reason I swapped is for ease of installation with the rest of my exhaust (pacesetter Y, Magnaflow catback). I'm kind of regretting it now lol.. XD

Ballinonabudget

iTrader: (12)

I was planning on just using the gaskets Pacesetter supplied.. is this a bad idea or are they ok?

5o2slow

iTrader: (1)

Update!!!!!!! remove the steering linkage i just did it and it worked for me. Good luck

96TransAmboosted

iTrader: (8)

I use ramps in the rear and stands in the front like the picture above. Remove linkage and the should slip right into place. Also I would suggest better gaskets and locking headed bolts or you will be changing gaskets regularly.

trilkb

iTrader: (4)

I use 4x4's to help. About 20 inches long... 4 of those go along way to get the car off the ground quickly. 2 under each front tire while jacking on the k member ( 4" off the ground), then moving to the back...jack on the rear diff (not the cover!) and put actual ramps under, i do it backwards so it doesnt roll off! Then go back to the front and take it up to get jack stands under it. If done 2 sets of headers this way and a transmission....

Jacking at all 4 corners to me is worse on the frame since its twisting, plus it takes longer then using the K member and Rear diff.

spudnick3119

Use Felpro 1406 gaskets.

Remove the heads and you can install both sides from the top lol... I used a regular jack with one piece of wood for extra lift and mine went in fine. The rear tires weren't lifted either. They have to go in at a very steep angle.