Pilot bearing
#3
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Ya I used a puller but I broke one hook that was a smaller hook and then the center on the bearing came out then I was able to get a bigger hook in there to pull on it
#4
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First thing to do to install it is leave it in the freezer for several hours. Doing this, it will slightly contract and make install easier.
Most people use a deep well socket which works fine. Just ensure that you dont collapse or pinch the hole where input stub goes which you can avoid by using the largest socket possible.
Most people use a deep well socket which works fine. Just ensure that you dont collapse or pinch the hole where input stub goes which you can avoid by using the largest socket possible.
#7
^^^ use a wood dowel like a piece of closet hanger round dowel. best not to use metal.
fwiw just did it a few weeks ago. used the autozone blind hole puller. worked perfect and then used a 6" piece of round dowel to pound it in.
fwiw just did it a few weeks ago. used the autozone blind hole puller. worked perfect and then used a 6" piece of round dowel to pound it in.
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Also you can removed them with a socket. First find a socket just a bit smaller than the ID of the old brg. I used a metric 1/4 drive deep socket. Second Tape over the 1/4 drive slot. Fill the pilot brg cavity with grease. Third Just tap the socket in. The pressure you created pushing the socket into the grease will push the brg out. ITS CAKE
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An interesting thing I saw a while back when I had a pilot bearing failure.
I saw that one third of the pilot bushing was not worn at all as a result of never making contact with the stub on the end of the input shaft. I then conducted a series of measurements and determined that the only 2/3 of the input stub contacts the pilot bushing. Obviously this is not desirable.
When I installed the new pilot bushing, I decided to leave it sticking out of the crank hole by 1/4" as opposed to driving it in all the way like I have every time previously. I figure now, the stub on the input shaft will now make more complete contact with the pilot bushing. If this is the case, clearly the bushing will last longer and the stub will be better supported.
Clearly, if if what I did leaving the pilot sticking out further were a problem, then the tranny would not have slid into final position when being reinstalled. Also this guarantees greater contact with the drive stub on longevity of the pilot bushing.
Just my 2 cents.
I saw that one third of the pilot bushing was not worn at all as a result of never making contact with the stub on the end of the input shaft. I then conducted a series of measurements and determined that the only 2/3 of the input stub contacts the pilot bushing. Obviously this is not desirable.
When I installed the new pilot bushing, I decided to leave it sticking out of the crank hole by 1/4" as opposed to driving it in all the way like I have every time previously. I figure now, the stub on the input shaft will now make more complete contact with the pilot bushing. If this is the case, clearly the bushing will last longer and the stub will be better supported.
Clearly, if if what I did leaving the pilot sticking out further were a problem, then the tranny would not have slid into final position when being reinstalled. Also this guarantees greater contact with the drive stub on longevity of the pilot bushing.
Just my 2 cents.
Last edited by wrd1972; 02-16-2012 at 08:53 AM.