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1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Guys with ARP wheel studs come in please.

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Old 04-23-2012, 12:01 PM   #1
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Default Guys with ARP wheel studs come in please.

My buddy just bought 17x9 and 17x11 ZR1 replicas for his 94 Z28 and he ended up using 5/16" spaces and a hammer to get his 335's to fit. Well I knew right away he would need studs because there was definitely not enough thread left to bolt them on safely.

I made him buy ARP wheel studs and they should be here this week. My question is, is it better to pull the axles and press them in or can we get away with popping the old ones out with the axles in and suck them in with a lug nut?
I don't want to do that because it just seems sketchy to me but my other friend who works at a tire shop says he does it all the time....

Thoughts on this?
Thanks
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Old 04-23-2012, 01:58 PM   #2
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70 views and nothing? really?
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Old 04-23-2012, 02:00 PM   #3
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I popped mine out and pulled them into place with alot of lube and a handfull of throw away lug nuts.
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Old 04-23-2012, 02:01 PM   #4
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I'd press them in. Stock or aftermarket rear? If stock I don't think there is enough room to to do the rears on the car anyway, if I remember correctly.
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Old 04-23-2012, 02:17 PM   #5
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Thanks for posting this. I was gonna have this question in the future
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Old 04-23-2012, 02:45 PM   #6
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Pulling stock replacement (dorman) studs through with the lug nuts is fine. The knurled area on ARP studs is larger and takes more force to install them in the axles. I've read where people messed up their new ARP studs by pulling them through with lug nuts. When I installed my ARP #100-7708 studs I drove them in from the back with a hammer and a socket, they were tight in the holes! If you had access to a press that would probably be the best way. .
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Old 04-23-2012, 02:49 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by camar0corey View Post
I'd press them in. Stock or aftermarket rear? If stock I don't think there is enough room to to do the rears on the car anyway, if I remember correctly.
it's the stock rear so yeah i'm not sure if there is enough room for the longer studs to be put in with the axles in.
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Old 04-23-2012, 02:51 PM   #8
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I would just look at it as an opportunity to do a fluid change on the rear if it hasn't been done in awhile.
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Old 04-23-2012, 02:52 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by guppymech View Post
Pulling stock replacement (dorman) studs through with the lug nuts is fine. The knurled area on ARP studs is larger and takes more force to install them in the axles. I've read where people messed up their new ARP studs by pulling them through with lug nuts. When I installed my ARP #100-7708 studs I drove them in from the back with a hammer and a socket, they were tight in the holes! If you had access to a press that would probably be the best way. .
That's what I need to hear, i'll just pull the axles then since it's not that hard anyway. I'd rather not ruin the studs since we're planning on going to the track this weekend so it needs to be done.
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Old 04-23-2012, 02:52 PM   #10
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KNocked mine out through the little hole on the rear backing plate, and pulled the new ones through....

A good impact is all you need...
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Old 04-23-2012, 02:54 PM   #11
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As easy as it is to pull the axles i would just pull them out and use a press to press the studs in.
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Old 04-23-2012, 03:21 PM   #12
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Quote:
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KNocked mine out through the little hole on the rear backing plate, and pulled the new ones through....

A good impact is all you need...
The car in question is a 94 though, I don't remember seeing any hole in the backing plate on my 94. I remember this being the reason I didn't do the wheel studs til several years later, when I finally actually needed them.

Not sure what year GM made the change where there is the hole in the backing plate.
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Old 04-23-2012, 04:16 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by camar0corey View Post
The car in question is a 94 though, I don't remember seeing any hole in the backing plate on my 94. I remember this being the reason I didn't do the wheel studs til several years later, when I finally actually needed them.

Not sure what year GM made the change where there is the hole in the backing plate.
Mine is a 96.... it has the hole. And my 9" is out of a 98, with 98 brakes, and it has the hole... Im sorry thats all I can say for sure. Take a look. ITs an access hole just large enough for the stud. pop one out... rotate, till you line the next one up.... rotate, line the next one up....ETC....
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Old 04-23-2012, 04:38 PM   #14
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Quote:
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I would just look at it as an opportunity to do a fluid change on the rear if it hasn't been done in awhile.
Actually just installed 3:73s for him last summer so it's not too old haha.
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Old 04-23-2012, 07:41 PM   #15
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Pressing them in is always better. Look at it this way: You can do a fluid change and axle bearings and seals too-it's not like the parts are expensive.

If you wanna try the pull 'em through with a nut method, use a spacer on the axle flange and a grade 8/10.9 or better hex nut, not a lug nut on the wheel. Most lug nuts are ****. Lube it up good-including the nut face and washer. You'll need to eat your spinach and Wheaties.
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Old 04-23-2012, 07:48 PM   #16
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I did it with axles in the rear still. Used an old shank lug and washers. Worked real well except on a few of them I bent a couple threads because I was using a breaker bar and then a torque wrench for the final pass and used the surrounding studs as leverage. Luckily I am able to pass lug nuts without a problem on them.

+1 on spinach and wheaties if you do it this route.
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Old 04-24-2012, 10:29 AM   #17
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Use some lube on the threads, take your time and allow the metal to cool, and use a washer. I've never had a problem pulling in studs.
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Old 04-24-2012, 08:16 PM   #18
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Do not pull them through, i stripped 2 arp studs this way. The threads arent designed to have that pressure on them. The car was down for an additional 2 days because i was too lazy to simply pull axles
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Old 04-25-2012, 10:12 AM   #19
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I did over 50 this way. Guess I got lucky over 50 times?
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Old 04-25-2012, 10:12 AM
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