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Leak free oil pan and timing cover? Whats the trick?

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Old 05-05-2012, 03:23 PM   #1
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Default Leak free oil pan and timing cover? Whats the trick?

Im sick of my car leaving a big oil spot anywhere I park it, so I have the oil pan and timing cover off and a set of new felpro gaskets for each. Is there any trick to installing these so they wont leak? I installed a new pan gasket several years ago (not a felpro) and put RTV on either side of it in hopes of getting a better seal but it still leaked. Felpro says to install the gaskets dry with no rtv and to make sure the mating surfaces are clean. Is this my best bet?

ARP makes a bolt kit for the oil pan, would a kit made for SBC with 1 piece rubber gasket work on the LT1?
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Old 05-05-2012, 05:06 PM   #2
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weld them on
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Old 05-05-2012, 05:07 PM   #3
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ok serious note just gotta replace gaskets and personally id use the right stuff gasket maker for the intake. stuff works great and i actually dont leave any drips. 98k on the clock and shes nice and clean. but as long as ive done the work myself i dont have leaks for quite awhile.. and when i do i reseal
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Old 05-05-2012, 06:27 PM   #4
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I've always put the oil pan gasket on dry - no RTV - with zero leaks for 8 years. This of course after making sure the sealing surfaces and new gaskets are DEAD NUTS clean. Don't overtighten the pan bolts, either.
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Old 05-05-2012, 06:38 PM   #5
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Dry oil pan gasket, dry timing cover gasket, right stuff at the corners. Right stuff on the intake.

Proper torque and tightening sequence is important on the pan. Zero leaks on mine this way.
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Old 05-05-2012, 06:50 PM   #6
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Old 05-05-2012, 10:38 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gregrob View Post
Dry oil pan gasket, dry timing cover gasket, right stuff at the corners. Right stuff on the intake.

Proper torque and tightening sequence is important on the pan. Zero leaks on mine this way.
This is the way I did mine, no leaks since.
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Old 05-06-2012, 01:18 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gregrob View Post
Dry oil pan gasket, dry timing cover gasket, right stuff at the corners. Right stuff on the intake.

Proper torque and tightening sequence is important on the pan. Zero leaks on mine this way.
Yep dry oil pan and right stuff for timing cover and intake. My motor has been in the car for over two years and is still as clean as it was when it was installed
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Old 05-06-2012, 02:50 AM   #9
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So you used the right stuff between the pan gasket and timing cover and the rear arch also? Both sides of the gasket or just between the gasket and timing cover?
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Old 05-06-2012, 02:42 PM   #10
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Most people have problems with the lip seals, not the gaskets. Clean, dry or using the right stuff should work.
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Old 05-06-2012, 02:46 PM   #11
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I put the gaskets on dry with RTV at the corners of the pan where the srfaces chanch direction. The opti seal and waterpump seal should be put on lubed, I have never had them work good installed dry (the seal surface, not where it presses in) I allways oil them liberally , just like you do a rear main seal.
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Old 05-06-2012, 03:49 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WS Sick View Post
I put the gaskets on dry with RTV at the corners of the pan where the srfaces chanch direction. The opti seal and waterpump seal should be put on lubed, I have never had them work good installed dry (the seal surface, not where it presses in) I allways oil them liberally , just like you do a rear main seal.

Might want to double check your "information" I believe the timing cover kits generally come with a little piece of paper specifically stating you are wrong and some seals need to be dry.

The waterpump drive seal is installed dry but it is very easy to flip the inner seal outwards which is what causes a LOT of leaks.

Far as the pan I have always just used a dab of silicon where the gasket goes from the block to the timing cover and on back where the rear main adapter meets the block.
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Old 05-06-2012, 03:57 PM   #13
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My information is from doing a good amount of times and knowing what works.
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Old 05-06-2012, 05:31 PM   #14
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use the rubber fel-pro gasket there awsome and never leak
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Old 05-06-2012, 05:35 PM   #15
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How long do u let the rtv setup before putting the oil back in. Oil wont let rtv set up completely.
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Old 05-06-2012, 05:37 PM   #16
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30 minutes and the outside of the stuff has filmed over.
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Fully Forged 383 bottom end. 11.3:1 Compression, AFR 190 old style heads, custom cammotion cam (240/242@.050, .600.605 lift, 111 LS)
Performabuilt Lvl 2 tranny, 3000 PE Vigilantee, 4.10 gears.
Track times with new motor coming this spring. Old 383 went low 11s.
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Old 05-06-2012, 05:40 PM   #17
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Quote:
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So you used the right stuff between the pan gasket and timing cover and the rear arch also? Both sides of the gasket or just between the gasket and timing cover?
If by " rear arch" you mean the rear main seal then no. I have a felpro Teflon seal that goes on dry. Just right stuff at the front corners where the pan meets the front cover.
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Old 05-06-2012, 05:43 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nitrous addict View Post
How long do u let the rtv setup before putting the oil back in. Oil wont let rtv set up completely.
You should let silicone cure for 24 hours. The Right Stuff, loctite brand and other rubber based sealants cure in 15 minutes and hold up much better than RTV
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Old 05-06-2012, 07:02 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WS Sick View Post
My information is from doing a good amount of times and knowing what works.

Doesn't mean you are right.
I have done it a bunch of times too.
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Old 05-06-2012, 07:18 PM   #20
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Well the front of my motor says I did it at least right that time....lol
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Fully Forged 383 bottom end. 11.3:1 Compression, AFR 190 old style heads, custom cammotion cam (240/242@.050, .600.605 lift, 111 LS)
Performabuilt Lvl 2 tranny, 3000 PE Vigilantee, 4.10 gears.
Track times with new motor coming this spring. Old 383 went low 11s.
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