Leak free oil pan and timing cover? Whats the trick?
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Leak free oil pan and timing cover? Whats the trick?
Im sick of my car leaving a big oil spot anywhere I park it, so I have the oil pan and timing cover off and a set of new felpro gaskets for each. Is there any trick to installing these so they wont leak? I installed a new pan gasket several years ago (not a felpro) and put RTV on either side of it in hopes of getting a better seal but it still leaked. Felpro says to install the gaskets dry with no rtv and to make sure the mating surfaces are clean. Is this my best bet?
ARP makes a bolt kit for the oil pan, would a kit made for SBC with 1 piece rubber gasket work on the LT1?
ARP makes a bolt kit for the oil pan, would a kit made for SBC with 1 piece rubber gasket work on the LT1?
#3
ok serious note just gotta replace gaskets and personally id use the right stuff gasket maker for the intake. stuff works great and i actually dont leave any drips. 98k on the clock and shes nice and clean. but as long as ive done the work myself i dont have leaks for quite awhile.. and when i do i reseal
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Yep dry oil pan and right stuff for timing cover and intake. My motor has been in the car for over two years and is still as clean as it was when it was installed
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I put the gaskets on dry with RTV at the corners of the pan where the srfaces chanch direction. The opti seal and waterpump seal should be put on lubed, I have never had them work good installed dry (the seal surface, not where it presses in) I allways oil them liberally , just like you do a rear main seal.
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I put the gaskets on dry with RTV at the corners of the pan where the srfaces chanch direction. The opti seal and waterpump seal should be put on lubed, I have never had them work good installed dry (the seal surface, not where it presses in) I allways oil them liberally , just like you do a rear main seal.
Might want to double check your "information" I believe the timing cover kits generally come with a little piece of paper specifically stating you are wrong and some seals need to be dry.
The waterpump drive seal is installed dry but it is very easy to flip the inner seal outwards which is what causes a LOT of leaks.
Far as the pan I have always just used a dab of silicon where the gasket goes from the block to the timing cover and on back where the rear main adapter meets the block.