starbucks

Does any one know what the part number is that will work in my 95 T/A. I have been looking but I can't seem to find one.

duh

iTrader: (16)

I don't see why the one for the 92-96 corvette wouldn't work. IIRC the factory pumps are the same. It's only the sending unit that is different. That's the one I would buy b

starbucks

U being up a great point, the pump itself should be the same correct.

Lonnies Performance

iTrader: (16)

None are correct as the fuel tank wiring bulkhead is not up to the current requirements of the pump.

Making in fit is 1 thing, making it safe is another.

Gunters96lt1

iTrader: (21)

I run one in my car, i just bought a painless fuel pump relay wiring kit and use it to run the pump.

starbucks

What's wrong with the factory wiring, I already have the racetronix hot wire kit.

lt1needingboost

iTrader: (8)

I think what lonnie is talking abt (and if anyone knows abt fuel pumps, buckets, etc its lonnie) is the fact that aeromotive uses a plugin in to the pump where the brass pins r located thus having stray voltage running ard inside ur fuel tank fyi the # i beleive is 11340 for a ctr in tank i use one but i shrinktubed everything still proly not the right way 2 do it but.........i wld listen to lonnie he knows his stuff when it comes to anything fuel.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

Lonnie's Performance made it PERFECTLY clear that even with the racetronix kit the connector in the top of the sending unit is what is not up to the current needed. One tiny little piece of the original wiring system, we manage to get a little more through it by upgrading the wiring on both sides but this pump is just asking too much.

I am sure people have done it.
To me though this is the riskiest place to have a problem, an issue on either side of it is one thing but if you managed to actually damage the bulkhead that is a way for air to get in and fuel to get out.
Wiring melting inside the tank is just surrounded by gasoline vapor, not enough O2 to support combustion. You melt the bulkhead and you could create a place for air and gas to get to eachother. I don't think it likely but I think it is the reason you aren't seeing well made kits for this pump in the f-body and b-body yet.

starbucks

So basically what i am being told is that the best in tank pump you can run in a f-body is a walburo 255?

Racetronix

iTrader: (2)

Not exactly. As above ^^^

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What's is the best in tank pump I can run?

sweetbmxrider

iTrader: (13)

I've had my aeromotive 340 in my tank for over a year now, best pump I've had. Maybe I'll burn alive tomorrow while racing though.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

Have you flow tested it to be sure it is getting proper current and therefore actually supplying the proper output?

Guessing you don't have any way of knowing if given the electrical limitation it might be acting like a 255lph pump, just at a higher cost

Racetronix

iTrader: (2)

Did anybody here bother to read Aeromotive's faq on their Stealth pumps?

http://aeromotiveinc.com/tech-help/f...th-fuel-pumps/

Read # 10!

sweetbmxrider

iTrader: (13)

I don't need full output, I just wanted a decent pump that wouldn't crap out like the walbros did. If the 2 inches of factory wiring are hindering the 340 down to a 255 pump, I can only imagine how the 255's would be drastically effected!

I run a racetronix hotwire kit with my 340 pump.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

The 255lph pump from my research is 9-11 amps at 60psi, the 340 is 15 amps. , it is entirely possible for some of the stock wiring to be OK for the 255lph but then a problem for the 340 given the substantial current draw difference. I used 60psi because that was what I found for a rating on the 340 in Aeromotive's FAQ.

Think of it like a stock motor with stock exhaust vs. a heads/cam motor with stock exhaust. Which is being choked more?

sweetbmxrider

iTrader: (13)

Don't think of it like a motor and exhaust travel because it is electricity and not at all like you are inferring. The walbros from my experience have been worse than a stock pump. The 340 thus far, has been flawless. Like I said, I don't need the max output. I need the reliability.

Racetronix

iTrader: (2)

Exactly!
Not to mention that the factory bulkhead connector o the FMP was prone to failure even with the factory pump and that is why they moved to a GT280-series 30-amp connector.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

I have put the Ractronix 255lph kit is I think 4 cars never an issue.

Maybe there were quality issues more recently or maybe you are buying knockoffs or making a mistake in installtion. The only one of my friends around here who ever had a problem with the Walbro 255lph it turned out to be the crap black hose that came with the pump split pump was fine. Racetronix sends the nicer teflon tube.

Racetronix

iTrader: (2)

The BLT1 kits have come with a new bulkhead connector assembly for quite a few years now. The F99 bulkhead option for just over a year. The problem is with the factory 150-series bulkhead connector. They will fail over time:


The new 280-series bulkhead which is part of all new Delphi/GM modules fixes this problem:


Our new FPWK-017W hotwire system addresses all the issues with this connector by adapting the factory 150-series connector system to the new 280-series system w/o splicing anything:
http://www.racetronix.biz/customkiti...=FPWK-017W&eq=