1991camaro_rs

Hey guys, im working on my bolt on car, and was looking into some different brands for suspension. I was told QA1 makes nice stuff, and BMR makes nice stuff. What would you guys recommend, and what parts are crucial to change to make it a better 1/4 mile car. thanks guys!!

MDUB87

I've heard nothing but good things about Spohn, also I would say LQA, adjustable panhard and if you lower it, too then definitely get some lqa relocation brackets.

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

I use a hodgepodge of manufacturers on my car including Spohn, BMR, Comp Engineering, UMI, QA1, etc.

If you want good advice ask this question in the drag race forum. Suspension is tricky - you can't expect to just buy parts throw them on then run 1.2 60's out of the box. But if I had to pick 3 parts for straight-line suspension it would be:

LCAs and relocation brackets
QA1s
Drag bar

Don't forget tires - they are an incredibly important part of the suspension very often overlooked.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Auto or manual?

1991camaro_rs

ok cool guys awesome, so ill give you guys some information about my setup and goal's
1996 trans am
longtubes
ORY to dumped 3 inch dynomax bullet
currently have 4.10's also have a set of 4.56 gear's
1.6rr and lt4 valve springs
4l60e currently on stock converter, will eventually get a stall
moroso cai
weld pro stars
with Mickey Thompson ET drag radials.

odds and ends like that, im shooting for 12's after i get it dialed in, and i know suspension is pretty important, thanks for the info guys!

fex77k

iTrader: (2)

I would stay away from Spohn, I had their torque arm and kmember with a-arms.
Their lower a-arms are junk, and will not last in any kind of car. Their torque arm will require supervision with a 12bolt. (not an uncommon issue but annoying)
The only real reason you need is that Spohn will not honor any kind of warranty. To me they are just a knock off of any other company. When I asked them what they would do for me, they laughed and said that sucks.

I have also ran BMR entire setup. Their lower a-arms are incredibly strong. I did bend an upper a-arm, but they replaced them at no cost. Customer service at BMR was above and beyond what I got from Spohn.

The only negative I can think about QA1's is that they are a bit nice for the street. They really shine on the track, but there is cheaper alternatives if you are mainly street driving.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

What is your best 60'? What size DR's? What track do you frequent?

VinR1

iTrader: (17)

http://www.midwestchassis.com/

sponsor and great customer service

2cat95ta

Founder's performance. They have very competive prices, and I have yet to hear complaints about their products

1991camaro_rs

track i will go to mainly is maple grove, never took this to the track yet. and some 26x10.50 i believe, sitting in the barn and haven't touched them for a while. I have been busy working on this car through the last part of summer thats why i didnt get to the track yet. thanks for all the good info guys!!

liltoxic97

iTrader: (1)

i would also suggest midwestchassis.com!
my dad and i have know Eric from there for a long time! They do great work over there.

FirstYrLS1Z

iTrader: (4)

4.10s' are the limit for an auto 1/4miler.
4.56s' in an auto would ONLY be for a dedicated 1/8miler and for a 'light to light' streetfighter. Speaking from experience here,4 years with 4.56s' and A4.
Your stock stall is holding you back,minimum-3000,preferred-3500-4000.
LCA relocation brackets and shocks
I'll let others recommend on the shocks,I had QA1 double adjustable and liked the feature of being able to adjust rebound and compression seperately,but they're expensive.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Some like to kill themselves in buying and installing as many suspension components as possible which then over complicates things and can cause a massive headache in trying to make work. I would suggest doing the right gear/stall/tire/LCA/relo bracket combination first before doing any further suspension work. Especially since for now it is a bolt-on car. That may be enough to yield the kind of 60' required to run well. If you are going to frequent the track often it would be a good idea to get rid of the stock torque arm and go with something far more sturdy. That in itself may even allow for noticeably 60' improvements.