Trying to figure the best cam for my 1995 camaro z28 LT1
#1
Trying to figure the best cam for my 1995 camaro z28 LT1
I have a stock Camaro 1995 z28, only mods i do know that its got is a SLP cold air intake, and flow-masters, that is all i know about the car, but i do want to add some power to my car and i want to add some borlas in my car as well, what camshaft kit should i purchase for my camaro?
#5
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Car needs a LOT of supporting modes before a cam is a reasonable consideration.
Many of us have made the mistake of doing a cam before all the supporting mods, no need for you to repeat that mistake.
You need headers, stall is A4, deeper gears with either tranny, prepared to replace a fuel pump if it turns out the 20yo one is a little weak.
Some suspension work to keep the axle from hopping because the 7.5" axle is weak and if you let it hop it will break.
Prepared for basic tuneup stuff like distributor cap and rotor.
Many of us have made the mistake of doing a cam before all the supporting mods, no need for you to repeat that mistake.
You need headers, stall is A4, deeper gears with either tranny, prepared to replace a fuel pump if it turns out the 20yo one is a little weak.
Some suspension work to keep the axle from hopping because the 7.5" axle is weak and if you let it hop it will break.
Prepared for basic tuneup stuff like distributor cap and rotor.
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#8
well my budget is $1500 for now, from what its looking like i will need to add some mods before adding in a cam, sounds good to me, heads probaly be the first thing ill do. My main goal is to get this car atleast 350hp.
#10
TECH Addict
$1500, doing the work yourself? If you are an Auto, get a stall, headers, cat back, LCA relocation brackets, and a tune. Enjoy. If M6, get girdle, headers, cat back, LCA relocation brackets, tires and tune. Enjoy. Either should put you right around 290-300rwhp (290ish with Auto, 300ish M6). The stall should have the biggest seat of the pants improvement of all of them, but those headers help a lot.
350rwhp will take more than $1500.
350rwhp will take more than $1500.
Last edited by hrcslam; 09-07-2014 at 10:32 PM.
#11
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You can do that with just bolt ons if you are looking at 350 flywheel hp. A cam alone will cost in the neighborhood of $1000.00 if you do the work yourself after the installation, valvetrain upgrades and tune, and that doesn't include gears to complement the new power band. If you are going to do heads/cam together yourself it'll probably be in the $3000.00 range, if not a little more. Have a shop do it and you're looking at about 8+ hours labor at 90 to 100 an hour, and that's even if they'll do it. Not a lot of shops want to touch these cars anymore.
#13
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I did exactly this. If he pulls it off that would be epic!
#14
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Used parts are the ticket if you are on a right budget. You have to get a tune if you do a cam, $200 for mail order minimum. Also can't skimp on the valvetrain, there is no point to doing a cam if you are not going to spin the motor high enough to use the power, and any cam you choose, from a hotcam to a gm847 need new springs. Anything over a hotcam should get NSA rockers because it'll like being spun past 6300rpm and that is the limit for self aligning rockers. This requires hardened pushrods and guideplates and ARP rocker studs, all of which can be found used for cheap, I paid $150 total for the above with 7/16 ARP studs and another $100 for used pro mags. Reuse your stock lifters if they are good now. You can get an m6 3.42 rear for $200 on Craigslist, and a tune can correct for the gears and cam at the same time. Used headers can be found for around $100, new painted pacesetters for under $300. You need new motor and trans eurathane mounts while you do headers since the 20 year old stock ones are probably sagging at can cause the headers to hit the k member and cause false knock. A good stall will run $800 and needs to be tuned for as well. Then don't forget about fluids, a new oil pump drive gear, and gaskets.
You keep saying 350hp but why are you caught on that number? What are your real goals, like 1/4 mile time or "I want to beat my buddy's ______". With boltons and a tune you could be mid 12s, which is plenty fast to beat alot of cars.
You keep saying 350hp but why are you caught on that number? What are your real goals, like 1/4 mile time or "I want to beat my buddy's ______". With boltons and a tune you could be mid 12s, which is plenty fast to beat alot of cars.
#15
me keep saying 350hp? i only said it once, but my real goal is to get lower 12's to mid 12's on the 1/4 mile, and definintly trying to beat a few mustangs and ricers that i know off around.
I will most likely pass on the cam and look towards on Craigslist to see what i can find, but i am looking forward in modding the hell out of this camaro.
I will most likely pass on the cam and look towards on Craigslist to see what i can find, but i am looking forward in modding the hell out of this camaro.
#16
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Listen to the advice on this forum and learn, Lots of us have hindsight now in the amount of money spent on our projects, some regret, some keep on, Horsepower cost Bucks, the ole saying, Horsepower cost, how fast do you want to go. You say you cant wait to mod the hell out of your car, do a search and see what the real word cost, not from someone who "Thinks" is should cost. Even bolt ons, Headers, T/B, Stall, Gears, Tune ect will way surpass your $1500 budget, once you get into the motor, Dig Deep into your savings.
#17
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LT headers, Y pipe, a better catback. You already have the cold air, so if you are auto, get a stall and 3.73s, if you are a 6speed, you can go 3.73s or 4.10s. hell, even a TPIS airfoil is a cheap easy mod to do.
Headers made a huge difference for me.
Don't forget, you need to fix the traction in the back. Replace your LCA bushings (I dont need relocation brackets on my car AND its lowered). Check your shocks/springs for wear.
Headers made a huge difference for me.
Don't forget, you need to fix the traction in the back. Replace your LCA bushings (I dont need relocation brackets on my car AND its lowered). Check your shocks/springs for wear.
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Ok Im going to say it. Ive seen everyone talking about installing gears in the rear axle, either 3.73ish for an auto or 4.10 on a manual. Also I see people asking about mods to run 1//4 mile times. That being said her is my opinion on gears.
I would not put a diffrent gear set in a 10 bolt rear axle. IMO Id save that 500ish dollars on a set of gears/instalation and otehr parts it takes to tear into a rear axle and put that toward a better axle.
I would not put a diffrent gear set in a 10 bolt rear axle. IMO Id save that 500ish dollars on a set of gears/instalation and otehr parts it takes to tear into a rear axle and put that toward a better axle.
#19
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Ok Im going to say it. Ive seen everyone talking about installing gears in the rear axle, either 3.73ish for an auto or 4.10 on a manual. Also I see people asking about mods to run 1//4 mile times. That being said her is my opinion on gears.
I would not put a diffrent gear set in a 10 bolt rear axle. IMO Id save that 500ish dollars on a set of gears/instalation and otehr parts it takes to tear into a rear axle and put that toward a better axle.
I would not put a diffrent gear set in a 10 bolt rear axle. IMO Id save that 500ish dollars on a set of gears/instalation and otehr parts it takes to tear into a rear axle and put that toward a better axle.