blk97z28

iTrader: (3)

Have the following coming in / on their way. My goal is to use the grease and the wrench for both the PHB and the LCA's. Decided on the poly on car and the roto for adjustment. Just need to buy springs, is there any that you guys recommend? I can't do Koni and AGX adj are not so good I've heard, what about Bilstens?

Any and all help is a ton of help!

Thanks,

Devin

1.) 1 x Sam Strano Lowering Springs

2.) 1 x 82-02 UMI Lower Control Arm Relocation Brackets (Bolt On) (2012)
Color Black
New Hardware

3.) 1 x 93-02 Spohn Tubular Tunnel Brace (994)
Color Gloss Black
New Hardware

4.) 1 x 82-02 Fbody UMI Performance On Car Adjustable Rear Control Arms (Poly/Roto-Joint) (2039)
Material Mild Steel
Grease No Thanks
Hardware Kit New Rear Control Arm Hardware #3001
Color Black
Spanner Wrench No Thanks

5.) 1 x 82-02 Fbody UMI Performance On Car Adjustable Panhard w/Roto-Joint (2037)
Color Black
Spanner Wrench Roto-Joint Spanner Wrench #0019
Grease 14 oz. Super Lube Synthetic Grease Tube #3008

hrcslam

I didn't see anything listed for the front, but just in case do NOT use poly mounts on the lower rear of the forward control arms. They WILL break. I broke 4. Hard lesson learned the hard way for me.

Also you'll need an alignment.

blk97z28

iTrader: (3)

Maybe I ordered the wrong parts? The poly's attach to the body and the roto's adjust on the rear. Sorry my upgrades are for the rear suspension. Do I need to order a different part? Ok you mean no POLY mounts for the a-arms in the front / front control arm?

blk97z28

iTrader: (3)

I was going to do all springs / shocks at same time. I'll the do rear suspension next week (besides the shocks and springs).

myltwon

iTrader: (1)

What do you want out of the car suspension wise?

blk97z28

iTrader: (3)

Some adjustment, not a daily driver just a weekend car when it is nice. Store it away for the winter months here in Nebraska. I went with the Poly / Roto mounts because I heard poly is nice on the chassis and Roto works great for helping it not bind in the rear. Seemed to be their most popular item; went with single adjustment as I'm not a huge tinker if everything is installed correctly. I didn't go non-adjustment as I know there might need to be adjustments done when I lower it, get bigger tires / rims etc and being on car adjustable makes it a whole lot easier. Double adjustable just seemed like too many moving parts but till wanted that adjustment factor so I talked to the guy at UMI and this seemed to be the best application.

Will eventually do: stall, heads, cam maybe a little 50-75 shot down the road. Driven on the streets mostly, some street pulls, little track use. Also I went ahead and got the JEGS PHB relocation extender to help level out the PHB when using the UPHB relocation bar. So I got the JEGS bracket and then a Founders black relocation PHB in case I do something unexpected with my exhaust down the road. Was either that or sandblast and powder coat the old stock UPHB which would be like 80$ anyways.

Wheelman916

When you say track use, are you talking road course? Or drag strip? Because those two require completely different suspension setups for optimum performance.

blk97z28

iTrader: (3)

My definition - track maybe 1 to 2 times a summer IF that, have a couple roads I like to carve into while driving. Usually just cruising around and street pulls that is what I thought single adjustable was best could adjust on a as needed basis with them on the car. Tires out back at NT05R for my setup.

hrcslam

Yeah for the front lower a arm rear bushing only. Every where else is fine.

StealthFormula

iTrader: (35)

IMO, I don't see the need or benefit of running adjustable LCA's instead on non-adjustable LCA's in your particular case so you might be able to save a couple $$$ by going non-adjustable. The adjustables give you the ability to change the position of the rear axle front to back which isn't necessarily needed unless you have an aftermarket rear end, very tall tires, etc.

blk97z28

iTrader: (3)

Parts are ordered; figured Id rather have adjustable then not if I need it. Also all my
Stuff is on car adjustable, so even though it is single adjustable can I adjust on car? I've read where even with single adjustable you have to unbolt one end. That doesn't make sense since I had the option with umi to have single adj off car I went with the on car. So I can set it and adjust as needed? May run taller rims or tires; I figured single adjust is all I would ever need.

blk97z28

iTrader: (3)

BUMP.

Decided to return the FOUNDERS PHB relocstion Kit, Jegs lowering bracket and Spohn tunnel brace. And instead ordered : UMI part number 2032 tunnel brace with safety loop since my headers and y tuck up tight. Also ordered a set of Bilstein shocks, got them for $365 for a set of 4, which seemed about the best price.

Eventually with get part number : 2210 (torque arm relocation crossmember), 2205 (torque arm full length mounts to
Factory spot well to the relocation cross member).

cardo0

U need a dedicated shock for lowered springs.

I tried the KYB adjustable s and proved to myself it was a big mistake. Dont know 'bout bilstein. Once i changed to Tokico life was much much better. But tokico are difficult to find and i had to buy one pair off ebay.
Funny i cant recall the mfr of my lowering springs but they were supposed to be premium german made springs. Couldnt get the full set of Tokicos at the time and wanted an adjustable shock anyways - drove with'm for 3 years and only 1 setting out of 10 was bearable. If u hear your axle bumps stops slamming the axle u will realize u need a better shock.

Next time i may have spend the $$$ for Koni as they have a dedicated lowering shock for 4th gens - unless Tokico returns to production. Konis are scary hi priced.

Let us know how the Bilsteins work out and good luck.

blk97z28

iTrader: (3)

Hey brother I'll for sure let everyone know, I couldn't afford Koni no matter how or which way I sliced it. So I did some searching on ls1tech etc and found out that number one choice is Strano springs + Koni shocks (single adjustsable, Double is not needed nor necessary). Second best option was strano springs with Bilsteins aka SLP's. I went with the second best option as I don't drive the car much so these are more than enough.

blk97z28

iTrader: (3)

Your springs May be vogtland?

cardo0

Yes thats it Vogtland. They advertized better steel and manufacture. But who knows. I doubt ill ever buy another set to compare with in my lifetime.

But ya know im just as low as most of the new corvettes (maybe not the C7 though) and that feels cool to pull up along side them at the stop light. All they see are my gauges and gauge pod and maybe my 4" tailpipe. They have no idea my car is still a dog.

Wheelman916

If money is a concern, I personally would have gone for the Strano/Koni setup straight off, and waited on the other mods. I'd also go for Founders non-adjustable poly/swivel combo LCAs ($110) and Founders adjustable poly/rod combo PHB ($70) skipped the LCA relo brackets, and went for a BMR or UMI torque arm relocation crossmember.

Nothing against UMI, but for a predominantly street-driven car, Founders makes great quality stuff at great prices... and as stated above, adjustable LCAs aren't needed for a stock axle and near stock wheel/tire diameter... Especially with the mild lowering of Strano springs.

hrcslam

I'd still recommend the lca relocation bracket. It's for for an anti-squat which is needed for powering out of the apex.

Wheelman916

Pretty sure they're only a good idea if:
1) you want all-out straight line traction at the drag strip
2) the car has been lowered enough and the relocation brackets have an adjustment range, so they can be set up to restore the LCA angle back to level, not much further.

Dropping the axle side of the LCA below level impacts roll oversteer and braking, does it not? For handling, I've always been told to keep the LCAs level.

hrcslam

You still want anti-squat, just not as much.

This is a must read (along with the other threads he links in that forum).
http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=42568

With the torque arm, the angle of the rear lca doesn't have to be as much. Lowering the car will change the angle as stock is pretty close to level as it is. The founders lca relocation bracket (along with most others) have two holes to choose from. I'm lowered 1.25" and use the lowest setting for~ 2° of angle down to the rear. For a smaller drop use the upper setting.