LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

LT1 or LS1?

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Old 03-27-2015, 11:32 AM
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One more, cloth interior tho
http://eauclaire.craigslist.org/cto/4894079968.html
Old 03-27-2015, 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by ahritchie
True...I bought a 99 Regal GS for $400 with 120K on it; it needed a tuneup as it was running on 5 cylinders with the supercharger disconnected (needed supercharger pulley tensioner) and it runs strong for a granny mobile! I put a 3.5" pulley on it a few months ago, and just ordered a off road down pipe, power log, and zzperformance 1.0 tune today to step things up a notch . Nobody suspects the Buick Regal driver ....be prepared for more attention from the cops with a 4th gen
I have a GTP Coupe lol so I get wayyy more attention from the cops than a Regal lol... looks can be deceiving ... there was a point where I was planning coilovers on this thing but eventually I gave up the idea because at the end of the day we're gonna spend like $2k and end up with a car that barely outhandles a stock F-body if that.
Old 03-27-2015, 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by 98CayenneT/A
Okay couple of questions
A. Rebuilt engines are okay to buy?
B. We can go over 150k?
Old 03-27-2015, 01:20 PM
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I would have far more trust in a stock GM built engine than a rebuild by who knows mystery engine...unless it was a GM replacement with warranty in tact. 150K is a lot of miles, but it just depends on if it was taken care of or not. As mentioned, I would just hold out and take your time till you find the right LS1 with the lowest mileage you can afford; you might have to expand your search 100+ miles and the search could weeks/months.

If you want great handling like you mention; you really need to go straight to either a SLP SS, 1LE Z28, WS6 TA/Formula, or a Firehawk (best choice )....they have lots of suspension goodies that are well worth it! You won't be able to replicate on the aftermarket for the price difference. And they are more rare/desireable.

LOL craiglist poster mentions its a "corvette engine"....classic! http://eauclaire.craigslist.org/cto/4894079968.html

Last edited by ahritchie; 03-27-2015 at 01:28 PM.
Old 03-27-2015, 01:32 PM
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Originally Posted by ahritchie
I would have far more trust in a stock GM built engine than a rebuild by who knows mystery engine...unless it was a GM replacement with warranty in tact. 150K is a lot of miles, but it just depends on if it was taken care of or not. As mentioned, I would just hold out and take your time till you find the right LS1 with the lowest mileage you can afford; you might have to expand your search 100+ miles and the search could weeks/months.

If you want great handling like you mention; you really need to go straight to either a SLP SS, 1LE Z28, WS6 TA/Formula, or a Firehawk (best choice )....they have lots of suspension goodies that are well worth it! You won't be able to replicate on the aftermarket for the price difference. And they are more rare/desireable.

LOL craiglist poster mentions its a "corvette engine"....classic! http://eauclaire.craigslist.org/cto/4894079968.html
lol Corvette engine, but we're good for just under 100k right? Also, I thought Strano springs w/ koni shocks and massive tires (square) were the answer w/ 35/22 front/rear sway bars as far as handling went? As far as search time goes, I've got plenty! Can wait weeks/months no problem.
Old 03-27-2015, 01:39 PM
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I didn't read much of the links I posted off Craig's list, just fired a few on here for the other Minnesota member on the previous page.
Lol, corvette motor! Are you serious! I will take it!
Old 03-27-2015, 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by 98CayenneT/A
I didn't read much of the links I posted off Craig's list, just fired a few on here for the other Minnesota member on the previous page.
Lol, corvette motor! Are you serious! I will take it!
Awh dang man it's killen me... I don't know, let me sell off my W-body and let's see what's on the market then :\ I honestly see no alternatives to the Fbodies, GTO has shitty rear and heavy, G8 DOD and heavy, 1st gen CTS-V too expensive, C4 is 2 seater, C5 a 2 seater and expensive, Miata a 2 seater, W-bodies need tranny builds plus going above 300 whp is very expensive and W-bodies can't handle for ****... so it's all down to the LT1 and LS1 Fbodies... which happen to be a hard buy, it's okay, it's only spring and I've got literally months to search!
Old 03-27-2015, 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Z28soon
Awh dang man it's killen me... I don't know, let me sell off my W-body and let's see what's on the market then :\ I honestly see no alternatives to the Fbodies, GTO has shitty rear and heavy, G8 DOD and heavy, 1st gen CTS-V too expensive, C4 is 2 seater, C5 a 2 seater and expensive, Miata a 2 seater, W-bodies need tranny builds plus going above 300 whp is very expensive and W-bodies can't handle for ****... so it's all down to the LT1 and LS1 Fbodies... which happen to be a hard buy, it's okay, it's only spring and I've got literally months to search!
FWIW, I have a friend who runs a 96 Z28 with a T56 and a TFS GenX top end in SCCA. Our last trip to VIR, he was standing toe-to-toe with a Boss 302S on the straights and we haven't really set the car's suspension up. The only real benefit the Boss had was slicks vs his street tires. If you're looking to road race, staying somewhat close to stock is the best way to go. It's not so much power as it is driver skill. So in that aspect, it's pretty much a wash. Also, while the GTOs are heavy, the rear isn't exactly weak, it's wheel hop that breaks them. Stop wheel hop, and the rear will take some grunt.

Last edited by 93Z2871805; 03-29-2015 at 09:57 PM.
Old 03-27-2015, 06:30 PM
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Originally Posted by 93Z2871805
If you're looking to road race, staying somewhat close to stock is the best way to go. It's not so much power as it is driver skill.
Pretty much what I stated earlier. In road racing, your money is better spent on safety equipment, tires, brakes, suspension, and track time than worrying about how much power a motor can make.
Old 03-27-2015, 09:30 PM
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Originally Posted by myltwon
Pretty much what I stated earlier. In road racing, your money is better spent on safety equipment, tires, brakes, suspension, and track time than worrying about how much power a motor can make.
Well tracks do have massive straights so we do have to make sure that we pick up very quick in the car right? While we're at it though, do you guys have any suggested suspension setup? The only setup I know is the one i stated a couple of times in this thread
Old 03-28-2015, 08:45 AM
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Depending on time and money, if you want to build a wicked road car.

Start with a 4th gen chassis. Do all the suspension stuff and a legal cage.

For power look at a turbo 4.3 from a ty/sy. De-stroked for rpm, Aluminum heads, appropriate turbo for spool.

LTx T-56 to handle your power.

9" for the back (ease of gear changes)

Then you can have a motor that make a ton of power really high powerband and a great chassis(albeit not the best when it comes to road racing) and good looks to boot.

And you can honestly say you have the only one of its kind.
Old 03-28-2015, 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Z28soon
Well tracks do have massive straights so we do have to make sure that we pick up very quick in the car right? While we're at it though, do you guys have any suggested suspension setup? The only setup I know is the one i stated a couple of times in this thread
And a flat torque curve would help. You'd be able to hold a gear into the corner, and come out fast onto the straight. On our last track outing to VIR, there was a nasty CTS-V (AS) running in the 2:09-2:13's, and some of the Spec Miata's running 2:08's. The V was pulling about 140 at the end of the front straight whereas the Miata's were like 115ish.
Old 03-28-2015, 09:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Z28soon
I also wanted to try a 3800 V6 bird or camaro and stick a turbo in it but when I hit up ZZP to make me a kit they pretty much refused to be a part of it. So basically an LT1 or LS1 at this point, and wow 88k miles for $3200? Is it okay to go above 130k or no? Many of these cars are kinda beat up.
personally I wouldn't the cars are old enough as it is. But if you can find a clean unmolested car ya pick it up just try and find one with mods done to it already it will save you some money
Old 03-28-2015, 09:43 PM
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Originally Posted by sweetbmxrider
1996 is when obd 2 began. The 1995 lt1 is an obd 1 computer that happens to use a 16 pin connector which is what obd 2 vehicles use.
no they started in mid 1995 build with OBG2 do your homework.
Old 03-28-2015, 10:46 PM
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Originally Posted by 93Z2871805
And a flat torque curve would help. You'd be able to hold a gear into the corner, and come out fast onto the straight. On our last track outing to VIR, there was a nasty CTS-V (AS) running in the 2:09-2:13's, and some of the Spec Miata's running 2:08's. The V was pulling about 140 at the end of the front straight whereas the Miata's were like 115ish.
Good god 2:09-2:13? That's the whole course, that's ridiculous... What was the camaro running?
Old 03-29-2015, 09:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Z28soon
Good god 2:09-2:13? That's the whole course, that's ridiculous... What was the camaro running?
He was at 2:24's (135 on the straight shifting at 5500). Here's the list of things wrong with it, lol. 1-2 syncros are gone, it was on street tires, and he wasn't revving it out. On the straights the Boss couldn't get around him, albeit, he was running the course a lot quicker (about 15-18 seconds per lap). Point is, once we get the car on slicks, fix the trans, and tune the suspension (it wants to try and bring the rear around with any kind of throttle coming out of the corners), we fully expect 2:0X's. We also need to get some weight out of this pig, lol, it came across the scales at 3450 (w/driver). I think the V was shifting at about 62-6300 and came across the scales at 3600. There were a couple spec Fords right at 2:00, and those NASCAR-like cars running 1:55's.

Last edited by 93Z2871805; 03-29-2015 at 10:02 PM.
Old 03-29-2015, 10:27 PM
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Originally Posted by 93Z2871805
He was at 2:24's (135 on the straight shifting at 5500). Here's the list of things wrong with it, lol. 1-2 syncros are gone, it was on street tires, and he wasn't revving it out. On the straights the Boss couldn't get around him, albeit, he was running the course a lot quicker (about 15-18 seconds per lap). Point is, once we get the car on slicks, fix the trans, and tune the suspension (it wants to try and bring the rear around with any kind of throttle coming out of the corners), we fully expect 2:0X's. We also need to get some weight out of this pig, lol, it came across the scales at 3450 (w/driver). I think the V was shifting at about 62-6300 and came across the scales at 3600. There were a couple spec Fords right at 2:00, and those NASCAR-like cars running 1:55's.
What?? Those numbers are crazy! Is this the same course as the one the Porsche 918 ran like 2:40something? Or is it a shorter course? And 3450 w/ the driver doesn't sound all too bad. And hit me up with that suspension setup please Is he thinking along the lines of coilovers or is he thinking springs/struts setup?
Old 03-30-2015, 02:34 AM
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Originally Posted by chaney1974
no they started in mid 1995 build with OBG2 do your homework.
OBD2 started on some cars in 1995 in California (V6 f bodies being one of them). But the Z28's stayed OBD1 (with an OBD2 plug) until federal requirement in 1996.

Homework would call it OBD not OBG.....
Old 03-30-2015, 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Z28soon
What?? Those numbers are crazy! Is this the same course as the one the Porsche 918 ran like 2:40something? Or is it a shorter course? And 3450 w/ the driver doesn't sound all too bad. And hit me up with that suspension setup please Is he thinking along the lines of coilovers or is he thinking springs/struts setup?
It was the full course, all 3.27 miles of it. We're thinking of just starting with the slicks, an adj. panhard bar, and a beefier rear sway bar. He doesn't want to swap the Bilsteins.
Old 03-31-2015, 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Z28soon
lol Corvette engine, but we're good for just under 100k right? Also, I thought Strano springs w/ koni shocks and massive tires (square) were the answer w/ 35/22 front/rear sway bars as far as handling went? As far as search time goes, I've got plenty! Can wait weeks/months no problem.
Don't get caught up on the miles. A good clean car with 100+K is better than a rode hard 45K mile car by far. All depends how they were treated. These motors don't just up and crap out past 100K miles. They are tough motors.

These cars are getting old so no matter the miles, they will more than likely need a little work. Rubber parts don't last forever, even on a low mile car. And you can almost bet, a car with low low miles that barely gets driven will develop some sort of fluid leak once you start to drive it a lot. It just happens. Just look for clean examples that you can tell were taken care of.


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