Juanquezadalt1

hey guys I was wondering what's a good valve train set up so I can get the best bang for my buck and what do I need to do because im sure I have to shave my valve covers I have a 95 transam but it has an engine from a roadmaster so it has a smaller cam then the F body cam my plan is since im on a budget I want to wake up the cam I was thinking to get scorpion 1.7 RR and lt4 springs but will I have to get pushrods what are good parts for the best price

ahritchie

iTrader: (1)

I would swap out the baby cam too, to it once and do it right! Otherwise you are setting yourself up for disappointing results. LT4 springs are a poor choice; I'm pretty sure they would be incompatible with 1.7 rockers anyway. Just get a good cam, good springs for it, and quality 1.6 rockers. Just save up and do it right instead of doing it half-assed, you'll thank yourself later!

Juanquezadalt1

What are some good name parts? I want to throw in a stock lt4 cam not the hot cam

Lt1Porsche

iTrader: (6)

With wanting to go with a "stock style" setup like the Lt4 cam I would focus mostly on OEM compatible parts. 1.7RR are not needed and may cause you more trouble then they are worth. As stated above a good quality 1.6 rocker will do you good. The LT4 cam is not going to be very demanding or harsh on your valve train so no need to spend big money on parts that just simply arent needed. Now personally I would go with a bigger cam. Your going through a lot of work to make a change that will more than likely not satisfy you. With the way cam lobes have progressed you can get a mild cam that will make good power and have good long term reliability without much maintenance. My recommendation would be to call TSP or another company and speak to a rep and get recommendations on a cam package.

Juanquezadalt1

The reason I didn't want a big cam is because most of my cars power comes from the nitrous but I did see a cam I dont know what brand it was but a roadmaster had it and that car was moving

badass96ta

i have some parts for sale that you maybe interested in.

Crane cams 1.6 gold roller rockers with arp studs and AFR guide plates plus some comp cams 7996 push rods---$250 plus shipping or we can meet up if your local to Houston.

also have some AFR stud girdles to reinforce everything---$50

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

The iron heads if so equipped are pressed studs and LT4 springs won't reliably fit the seats. Unmachined they are also limited to about .535 lift. I will take a look on a better screen with a real keyboard tonight but so far your plan and advise are not great.
For info on a b-body motor look for feed back from guys like bowtienut and myself who know the b-body stuff without a BLIND belief is has to be inferior.
If the cam is stock b-body it makes the same or more peak torque sooner and in full Bolton trim makes the same peak HP. Bowtienut ran low 11s with Bolton's and maybe a 150shot. Would be 1.6 SA rockers and a spring that fits.

ahritchie

iTrader: (1)

What exactly is wrong about running a bigger than a 200/207 0.447/0.459 cam combined with nitrous?

BTW...a torquey cam like that benefits a larger heavier car more than a bigger higher HP producing cam that moves the power band up higher (where you want it for racing) especially in a lighter car; the LT1 makes plenty of torque stock for a 3400 f-body IMO. You don't have 4200 lbs to get moving. I assume this is an auto? If you already are running nitrous and a b-body cam you should have more torque as it is than traction anyway...adding more HP to the top end would benefit you significantly enough to be worth the cam swap.

ahritchie

iTrader: (1)

^ Scratch that...if you are auto (I assume you are or your 10 bolt would have exploded with the first nitrous pass ) get a converter first! Then look at a cam...

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

So are we to understand the cam is already aftermarket based on If it is aftermarket and working then what are you trying to accomplish?

If it is stock b-body then the effort to do a stock LT4 cam would be a complete waste, I wouldn't do it if all the parts were free.

Are the heads stock unmachined iron?
The no guideplates for non-SA rockers.
Then the stud girdle you don't need probably wouldn't fit anyway, I would assume the stud diameter wrong and maybe even the valve spacing. Stock studs are 3/8" I would expect a stud girdle to be for 7/16". Maybe someone makes a 3/8" girdle but that would be silly as opposed to just using heavier studs first.

The VAST majority of folks have found the LT4 springs to not fit the iron heads and if it has an aftermarket cam as one post seems to suggest they would likely be all wrong especially with 1.7s.

The first post seems to suggest it is a stock cam yet and despite what the f-body crowd will tell you the b-body cam is just fine, tuners find that in full bolton it makes basically the same HP as an f-body.
The b-body has 87 octane tuning factory and a grandpa quiet intake, the airbox is 450cfm, the rectangular baffle is a 6hp choke on a stock motor even keeping the b-body 3" MAF, the mufflers are 1 7/8" inside and the pipes to get there BADLY crush bent like "D-shaped", oh and it is .4 of a point down on compression. Yeah the stock b-body makes 15-25hp less, but the reasons for that are about everything accept the cam. Hell when you look at the whole picture you have to wonder what was wrong with the f-body cam with the extra lift, extra compression and still making less lowend?????

The stock GM cams are in no way worth swapping between, bad idea, waste of time.

Give us a DETAILED rundown of what you have, what it does now, and what you want it to do and we can come up with a much better idea.

Juanquezadalt1

yes my car is auto and it still has the stock B body cam and stock cast iron heads unmachined i really like how my car has monsterous low end but i want to get some high end what is a good cam because you guys are right it wont be worth getting all those pars with the stock b body cam i want a cam that is good on the motor and that will love the nitorus any good ideas on what cam springs and rockers i should get what about pushrods?

ahritchie

iTrader: (1)

I would call Lloyd Elliot or AI and get a custom ground cam (after you get a coverter of course ) Let them spec a spring for it; rockers I would go for Comp Cams Ultra Pro Magnums; they are nice. Pushrods would need remeasured when you do the cam swap; and you may need hardened ones if you go with NSA rockers. I would replace them IMO with good chromoly hardened pushrods just for peace of mind.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

The stock b-body setup benefits from even just fresh springs. Guys have found valvefloat as early as 4800. With 1.6s and springs I know some bolton cars turn 5800. Bowtienut would be good to talk to, his bolton Impala ran 11.3 on the jug. Your car is lighter if you are slower than 11.5 and not going in for any other reason I would leave the can alone.

bowtienut

iTrader: (1)

Hi Juan. What are you trying to accomplish? Be specific. any performance numbers in mind? track goals?
As 96 says, if that engine is still healthy, you're only a spring kit and rockers away from low 12's NA and low 11's on a 125 shot. If you don't have the car set up and tuned to do that, then you're not likely to make much use of more cam, at least not at the dragstrip. Of course you'll need a converter and sticky tires to do that, whether or not you go into the engine. But the converter at this point can remain very mild.
Since you keep emphasizing performance with nitrous, program the shifts appropriately, ignore the tach (so you won't be missing that "high end" ), and you'll smash most heads/cam cars out there when you're spraying.

If you want a cam just because you want a cam, I'm going to assume from your posts so far that you're after sound and that feel of high rpm pull on the street rather than pure performance numbers. In that case, you're going to spend a LOT more money to equal your current performance from a low rpm dig when not spraying. Performance on the spray will be good regardless of what you decide to do.

Juanquezadalt1

I sent you a message bowtie and my goals are to hit low 11s dreaming of high 10s on nitrous and low 12s mid 12s on the motor I was hoping you can help me with set up parts wise and the tune I have cat tuner I can definitely use the help

bowtienut

iTrader: (1)

Already replied to your PM.
What does the car currently run? ET and mph.
and what's race weight with you in it?
What TC and tires are you running?
.Just to get an idea of current health/tune of the motor.