TunerCats Question?/Help!
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Staging Lane
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TunerCats Question?/Help!
My race car came with all this tuning software and so far the only trouble I have had is finding the right cable from the OBD2 to the back of my old old HP laptop used just for tuning. ALDL is the place to go for this cable!! My PCM is from a 95 car is 97. All that being said it comes down to the tunes themselves and so far the motor tune has been working fine but was curious because i have 9 tunes in my tuner cats .bin files. One says Nick motor which is the one i have been running others are either label with nitrous 2 stage or they are labeled something that idk what it means but some say something about timing or a/f ratio. Just curious on how to check and see how to know if its a motor tune or nitrous tune or would you know how just from looking at the tables in TunerCats? I obviously do not want to go uploading tunes and stuff that I have no idea what they are going to do on the track and hurt something in the motor or something because of the tune or drown a set of plugs which has already happened(was on nitrous tune). Trying to get the car to run good on motor before I go spraying and already kinda nervous on the tunes for nitrous setup.
hard to tell especially when the guy you got it from won't answer any longer :/ Thanks right?
hard to tell especially when the guy you got it from won't answer any longer :/ Thanks right?
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Pretty easy. Look at your 90 to 100 kpa cells ... ones gonna have quite a bit less timing then the other one for the nitrous. Especially for 2 stages.
Wanna post up the tunes called nick . motor and timing pulled.
99.9% sure it will be called the one timing pulled , but you always want to double check and make sure he didn't accidently save the bin under the wrong name when comparing a couple bins or so n something.
Wanna post up the tunes called nick . motor and timing pulled.
99.9% sure it will be called the one timing pulled , but you always want to double check and make sure he didn't accidently save the bin under the wrong name when comparing a couple bins or so n something.
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Pretty easy. Look at your 90 to 100 kpa cells ... ones gonna have quite a bit less timing then the other one for the nitrous. Especially for 2 stages.
Wanna post up the tunes called nick . motor and timing pulled.
99.9% sure it will be called the one timing pulled , but you always want to double check and make sure he didn't accidently save the bin under the wrong name when comparing a couple bins or so n something.
Wanna post up the tunes called nick . motor and timing pulled.
99.9% sure it will be called the one timing pulled , but you always want to double check and make sure he didn't accidently save the bin under the wrong name when comparing a couple bins or so n something.
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Quite easy you will have two timing tables . The main table and extended spark table in tuner cats. The top part of the tsble is kpa and the side Is rpm .
Go into your files . Right click the bin. Copy it and post it here .
Oops just read your computer has no Internet. Just take your phone and take a few photos of the timing tables.
Go into your files . Right click the bin. Copy it and post it here .
Oops just read your computer has no Internet. Just take your phone and take a few photos of the timing tables.
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Quite easy you will have two timing tables . The main table and extended spark table in tuner cats. The top part of the tsble is kpa and the side Is rpm .
Go into your files . Right click the bin. Copy it and post it here .
Oops just read your computer has no Internet. Just take your phone and take a few photos of the timing tables.
Go into your files . Right click the bin. Copy it and post it here .
Oops just read your computer has no Internet. Just take your phone and take a few photos of the timing tables.
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Quite easy you will have two timing tables . The main table and extended spark table in tuner cats. The top part of the tsble is kpa and the side Is rpm .
Go into your files . Right click the bin. Copy it and post it here .
Oops just read your computer has no Internet. Just take your phone and take a few photos of the timing tables.
Go into your files . Right click the bin. Copy it and post it here .
Oops just read your computer has no Internet. Just take your phone and take a few photos of the timing tables.
Nick motor main spark table
Nick motor extended table
New timing at track main spark
New timing at track extended
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The one with 31 degrees is gonna be your naturally aspirated tune.
The one with 24 degrees is gonna be your n2o tune.
This is a wet nitrous kit correct?
How much you going to spray?
Can you give a full rundown of your set up?
I would start off with a small shot . Around a 100 and pull 4 degrees off your main tune to start off. That 2nd tune you had posted has 7 degrees pulled. That's probably gonna be in the ballpark for a 150-200 shot
The one with 24 degrees is gonna be your n2o tune.
This is a wet nitrous kit correct?
How much you going to spray?
Can you give a full rundown of your set up?
I would start off with a small shot . Around a 100 and pull 4 degrees off your main tune to start off. That 2nd tune you had posted has 7 degrees pulled. That's probably gonna be in the ballpark for a 150-200 shot
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The one with 31 degrees is gonna be your naturally aspirated tune.
The one with 24 degrees is gonna be your n2o tune.
This is a wet nitrous kit correct?
How much you going to spray?
Can you give a full rundown of your set up?
I would start off with a small shot . Around a 100 and pull 4 degrees off your main tune to start off. That 2nd tune you had posted has 7 degrees pulled. That's probably gonna be in the ballpark for a 150-200 shot
The one with 24 degrees is gonna be your n2o tune.
This is a wet nitrous kit correct?
How much you going to spray?
Can you give a full rundown of your set up?
I would start off with a small shot . Around a 100 and pull 4 degrees off your main tune to start off. That 2nd tune you had posted has 7 degrees pulled. That's probably gonna be in the ballpark for a 150-200 shot
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With changing Anything in a tune, take baby steps especially for a beginner.
Changing timing on your main spark tables is quite easy. Take your 90 , 95, and 100 kpa cells and simply input the value of timing that you want it to have from around 2500 rpm and up. Make sure your 4000 rpm cell on both tables are the same (you'll see both tables share the same 4000 rpm cells.)
Before you go spraying the car make sure the tune Is dialed in before you go spraying it.
I've noticed on all the lt1s I have messed with that whatever you are commanding on the cell, the lt1 pcm will add about 2 degrees over what's in that cell even with pretty much all the modifier tables zeroed out. So let's say if you command 31 degrees on your tune in the main spark tables you'll see that in the data log you'll actually have about 33 to 34.
Like I said before make sure the tune Is spot on before you going spraying it.
Do you have enough fuel pump to support the nitrous system?
What fuel are you running and what's your current plug?
How's the afr look at wot?
There are some good reads on from Ed Wright, Moe Bailey and Solomon (lt1pcmtuning.com) you can learn a lot by reading from these guys. I'm 22 myself and have learned how to tune my car . By no means do I claim I'm an expert but you have to start some where.
Of all the crap I just rambled off , just remember. Baby steps! Don't be the guy cramming 40 degrees of ignition timing and running it rich lol.
Your timing seems to be good. Mine likes 32 degrees .
Changing timing on your main spark tables is quite easy. Take your 90 , 95, and 100 kpa cells and simply input the value of timing that you want it to have from around 2500 rpm and up. Make sure your 4000 rpm cell on both tables are the same (you'll see both tables share the same 4000 rpm cells.)
Before you go spraying the car make sure the tune Is dialed in before you go spraying it.
I've noticed on all the lt1s I have messed with that whatever you are commanding on the cell, the lt1 pcm will add about 2 degrees over what's in that cell even with pretty much all the modifier tables zeroed out. So let's say if you command 31 degrees on your tune in the main spark tables you'll see that in the data log you'll actually have about 33 to 34.
Like I said before make sure the tune Is spot on before you going spraying it.
Do you have enough fuel pump to support the nitrous system?
What fuel are you running and what's your current plug?
How's the afr look at wot?
There are some good reads on from Ed Wright, Moe Bailey and Solomon (lt1pcmtuning.com) you can learn a lot by reading from these guys. I'm 22 myself and have learned how to tune my car . By no means do I claim I'm an expert but you have to start some where.
Of all the crap I just rambled off , just remember. Baby steps! Don't be the guy cramming 40 degrees of ignition timing and running it rich lol.
Your timing seems to be good. Mine likes 32 degrees .
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With changing Anything in a tune, take baby steps especially for a beginner.
Changing timing on your main spark tables is quite easy. Take your 90 , 95, and 100 kpa cells and simply input the value of timing that you want it to have from around 2500 rpm and up. Make sure your 4000 rpm cell on both tables are the same (you'll see both tables share the same 4000 rpm cells.)
Before you go spraying the car make sure the tune Is dialed in before you go spraying it.
I've noticed on all the lt1s I have messed with that whatever you are commanding on the cell, the lt1 pcm will add about 2 degrees over what's in that cell even with pretty much all the modifier tables zeroed out. So let's say if you command 31 degrees on your tune in the main spark tables you'll see that in the data log you'll actually have about 33 to 34.
Like I said before make sure the tune Is spot on before you going spraying it.
Do you have enough fuel pump to support the nitrous system?
What fuel are you running and what's your current plug?
How's the afr look at wot?
There are some good reads on from Ed Wright, Moe Bailey and Solomon (lt1pcmtuning.com) you can learn a lot by reading from these guys. I'm 22 myself and have learned how to tune my car . By no means do I claim I'm an expert but you have to start some where.
Of all the crap I just rambled off , just remember. Baby steps! Don't be the guy cramming 40 degrees of ignition timing and running it rich lol.
Your timing seems to be good. Mine likes 32 degrees .
Changing timing on your main spark tables is quite easy. Take your 90 , 95, and 100 kpa cells and simply input the value of timing that you want it to have from around 2500 rpm and up. Make sure your 4000 rpm cell on both tables are the same (you'll see both tables share the same 4000 rpm cells.)
Before you go spraying the car make sure the tune Is dialed in before you go spraying it.
I've noticed on all the lt1s I have messed with that whatever you are commanding on the cell, the lt1 pcm will add about 2 degrees over what's in that cell even with pretty much all the modifier tables zeroed out. So let's say if you command 31 degrees on your tune in the main spark tables you'll see that in the data log you'll actually have about 33 to 34.
Like I said before make sure the tune Is spot on before you going spraying it.
Do you have enough fuel pump to support the nitrous system?
What fuel are you running and what's your current plug?
How's the afr look at wot?
There are some good reads on from Ed Wright, Moe Bailey and Solomon (lt1pcmtuning.com) you can learn a lot by reading from these guys. I'm 22 myself and have learned how to tune my car . By no means do I claim I'm an expert but you have to start some where.
Of all the crap I just rambled off , just remember. Baby steps! Don't be the guy cramming 40 degrees of ignition timing and running it rich lol.
Your timing seems to be good. Mine likes 32 degrees .
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Ok sounds like you have enough pump to support your spray. Are you pulling your fuel off of the rail or do you have a stand alone? Forgot to ask .
What compression is the motor ?
Yes the 90 95 and 100 kpa cells are wot. If you were to run a real time logger and drive your car around you will learn a lot. Kpa is nothing more then manifold vacuum read by the map sensor. Depending on how large your cam is , most heads cam lt1s run around 50 to 60 kpa (mine idles around 57 to 60). As manifold pressure decreases the kpa cells increase (meaning less vacuum ) basically what you need to know for wot timing changes is that you need to change the 90 95 and 100 kpa cells. The reason the lt1 map sensor won't read straight 100 kpa is due to its placement in the intake is what I read from a post from Ed Wright.
Your car Maf or speed density tuned ?
What compression is the motor ?
Yes the 90 95 and 100 kpa cells are wot. If you were to run a real time logger and drive your car around you will learn a lot. Kpa is nothing more then manifold vacuum read by the map sensor. Depending on how large your cam is , most heads cam lt1s run around 50 to 60 kpa (mine idles around 57 to 60). As manifold pressure decreases the kpa cells increase (meaning less vacuum ) basically what you need to know for wot timing changes is that you need to change the 90 95 and 100 kpa cells. The reason the lt1 map sensor won't read straight 100 kpa is due to its placement in the intake is what I read from a post from Ed Wright.
Your car Maf or speed density tuned ?
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Ok sounds like you have enough pump to support your spray. Are you pulling your fuel off of the rail or do you have a stand alone? Forgot to ask .
What compression is the motor ?
Yes the 90 95 and 100 kpa cells are wot. If you were to run a real time logger and drive your car around you will learn a lot. Kpa is nothing more then manifold vacuum read by the map sensor. Depending on how large your cam is , most heads cam lt1s run around 50 to 60 kpa (mine idles around 57 to 60). As manifold pressure decreases the kpa cells increase (meaning less vacuum ) basically what you need to know for wot timing changes is that you need to change the 90 95 and 100 kpa cells. The reason the lt1 map sensor won't read straight 100 kpa is due to its placement in the intake is what I read from a post from Ed Wright.
Your car Maf or speed density tuned ?
What compression is the motor ?
Yes the 90 95 and 100 kpa cells are wot. If you were to run a real time logger and drive your car around you will learn a lot. Kpa is nothing more then manifold vacuum read by the map sensor. Depending on how large your cam is , most heads cam lt1s run around 50 to 60 kpa (mine idles around 57 to 60). As manifold pressure decreases the kpa cells increase (meaning less vacuum ) basically what you need to know for wot timing changes is that you need to change the 90 95 and 100 kpa cells. The reason the lt1 map sensor won't read straight 100 kpa is due to its placement in the intake is what I read from a post from Ed Wright.
Your car Maf or speed density tuned ?
The wet kit fuel lines run to the rails also. my cam is a Intake centerline 104.5 tappet lift .438 rocker arm ratio 1.6 valve lift
.700Exhaust centerline 112.2 tappet lift .429 rocker arm ratio 1.6 valve lift .687
And i have trick flow aluminum heads. Its MAF tuned I'm guessing because it will adjust to climates (different tracks). Have you used Datamaster??
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Yes I have but it has been a while since I used it. I use tuner pro to data log.
Fairly simple to maf tune. There's 4 maf tables. The maf reads in hertz. Data log tHe car and find what hertz cell the maf is referencing and see what your air fuel ratio is. Then to modify the afr you multiply the g/sec by 1.01 and up to add fuel and multiply by .99 and less to subtract fuel.
There's also 2 power enrichment tables. Ones rpm based and ones coolant temp based. I only play with the rpm based one.
Have a wideband? Get one if you don't.
You have a lot of fuel pump , but watch the fuel pressure when you go to spray and make sure you don't see any drop in fuel Pressure when your spraying. It'll cause a lean spike. . But you have enough pump , I think it won't have a problem at the hit
Fairly simple to maf tune. There's 4 maf tables. The maf reads in hertz. Data log tHe car and find what hertz cell the maf is referencing and see what your air fuel ratio is. Then to modify the afr you multiply the g/sec by 1.01 and up to add fuel and multiply by .99 and less to subtract fuel.
There's also 2 power enrichment tables. Ones rpm based and ones coolant temp based. I only play with the rpm based one.
Have a wideband? Get one if you don't.
You have a lot of fuel pump , but watch the fuel pressure when you go to spray and make sure you don't see any drop in fuel Pressure when your spraying. It'll cause a lean spike. . But you have enough pump , I think it won't have a problem at the hit
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Yes I have but it has been a while since I used it. I use tuner pro to data log.
Fairly simple to maf tune. There's 4 maf tables. The maf reads in hertz. Data log tHe car and find what hertz cell the maf is referencing and see what your air fuel ratio is. Then to modify the afr you multiply the g/sec by 1.01 and up to add fuel and multiply by .99 and less to subtract fuel.
There's also 2 power enrichment tables. Ones rpm based and ones coolant temp based. I only play with the rpm based one.
Have a wideband? Get one if you don't.
You have a lot of fuel pump , but watch the fuel pressure when you go to spray and make sure you don't see any drop in fuel Pressure when your spraying. It'll cause a lean spike. . But you have enough pump , I think it won't have a problem at the hit
Fairly simple to maf tune. There's 4 maf tables. The maf reads in hertz. Data log tHe car and find what hertz cell the maf is referencing and see what your air fuel ratio is. Then to modify the afr you multiply the g/sec by 1.01 and up to add fuel and multiply by .99 and less to subtract fuel.
There's also 2 power enrichment tables. Ones rpm based and ones coolant temp based. I only play with the rpm based one.
Have a wideband? Get one if you don't.
You have a lot of fuel pump , but watch the fuel pressure when you go to spray and make sure you don't see any drop in fuel Pressure when your spraying. It'll cause a lean spike. . But you have enough pump , I think it won't have a problem at the hit
Also why does the main spark table and extended spark table need same amount of timing at 4k rpm?
I think I found another motor tune here I am comparing the main spark tables of the original motor tune and the new tune i found "redo afr for gear" The main spark and extended tables are literally the same throughout. Which makes me think its another motor tune. The only differences are literally the last two MAF tables on the "redo afr for gear tune" and those adjustments don't look major.. here are some pics of the comparison let me know if you think its a motor tune also.. sorry for such a huge post i was going to wait till you replied but i have a lot of stuff going on tomorrow so i did as much digging tonight as possible. Thanks a lot man i really appreciate the help a lot.
Nick Motor main spark
Redo afr for gear main spark these two tables literally are the same all throughout so I'm thinking its another motor tune
Nick motor tune extended table.
Redo afr for gear tune extended table again all the same which makes me think its motor tune
Nick motor MAF 4 tables vs the redo afr gear tables
redo afr for gear MAF 4 tables. The first two MAF tables are exactly the same the last two are different in some hertz but not changed by much
Last edited by nx_black97; 07-08-2015 at 11:13 PM. Reason: Found another motor tune i think
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I'm not spraying yet just comparing that tune to motor tune they are really close and I'm wondering if it's another motor tune because the timing tables are excatly the same and only thing different is the 3 and 4 MAF sensor tables.. Take a look and tell me what you think..?